Hello I have a 94 4runner with 3.0 that I got off my brother. It sat for a while. It had a blown head gasket. My brother tore it half way apart. All part were kept in the back. I finished tearing it apart and putting it back together. This forum helped me get it back together for the most part.

I have all vacuum lines accounted for and knew what was going on. I have one vacuum location I don't know where it goes. It's under the throttle body linkage facing forward. I didn't have any other vacuum hoses. Left over. It's the hose that I stuck a 3/8 bolt in to block off. TIA

It's the hose I put a bolt in the end to block off.

 

Where does the other end of the hose lead to? Under the manifold, Behind the manifold?

 

I believe after much research it's the coolant bypass through the throttle body. There was a hose that was ran from the back of the motor near the bypass inlet that went straight up to the inlet on the front of the intake manifold. I believe it suppose to go from the back to the back of the throttle body then out the front to the inlet on the intake manifold?

Please correct me if I'm wrong. That's what I'm going to look at it when I get home.

 

Most likely the case, I'd would have to look under my hood to really comprehend it at this time and my truck is also at home. If so it is, I would reconnect it. The only coolant hose that I bypassed is my rear heater core that I did a delete on, everything else I feel is too important to be disconnected. I'm curious as to why the previous owner had done that.

 

Hope this picture works you can see the hose on the front and backside connected to the Throttlebodys

 

As others have suggested, the plugged line is almost certainly the coolant line into the throttle body. http://web.archive.org/web/201311071...05descript.pdf It looks like yours might be bypassed by the hose in the foreground, which I have marked as Coolant. Since you haven't reported coolant gushing out, I'm going to guess the line on the other side of the throttle body is also disconnected. You might also find something broken (all coolant nipples are subject to corrosion), which might explain how it ended up bypassed in the first place.

You can run your 4runner with it bypassed like that, but I expect you'll get very poor performance (hard starting, rough idle, ...) when cold.

 

Yes the throttle body coolant is bypassed. I'll reconnect it when I replace the fuel lines and the o-rings on the injectors. Thank you for the help.

 

I'm curious; what fuel lines are you planning on replacing? The high pressure side only has one flexible line. I wouldn't expect any need to replace the metal lines, absent some damage.

Injector "o-rings" is sometimes a short-hand for all the flexible parts. From top to bottom there is a filter, the o-ring, a grommet (spacer), a seal (gasket), and a pintle cover. (E.g., https://www.ebay.com/i/262500477411) The seal fits into a plastic doo-hickey (insulator), that has a larger o-ring where it sits into the lower intake manifold. The o-ring is a critical component, as it seals in pressurized gasoline, but if it's time to replace that you might want to get the rest.

Not to make you job even longer, many of us find that the plastic connector bodies for the injector control have reached end-of-life, so that the locking tab breaks off. Only good luck (or, sometimes, a zip-tie) holds the connector to the injector. These connector bodies and replacement pins can be had in kit form; you just need to cut off the old pins and crimp on the new. Or, you can get the connectors with the pins already installed to short wires; you then have to splice 12 wires together. (Personally, floating splices like that seems ghetto to me.)

 

I have to replace the steel supply line from the fuel filter to the front fender well and I'm replacing the fuel line from the steel supply line to the rail. The steel line rusted and when I started the truck up after doing the head gasket it ran perfect for about 3 minutes then the gas started pissing quite heavily out of the steel line at the fitting and at the bracket at the 90 on the frame. The fitting is so rusted/corroded into the upper fuel line that the fitting broke trying to unscrew it.

Before putting it back together I noticed that the compression seal (grommet} at the top of the injectors were dry and cracked, one fell/broke off completely. I saw on another thread about an injection kit from Amazon that I ordered. I haven't messed with fuel injection before.... Does the injectors just snap in and out of the rail?
I already had one of the connectors to the fuel rail crack when I finished tearing it down to receive the head gasket. The insulation on those wires were dry rotted too. I replaced that one connector.

 

When in doubt, try the FSM: http://web.archive.org/web/201311071...90injector.pdf
The injectors don't "snap." The upper rail has a smooth bore, and you just twist the injector into it. Lubricate the o-ring with gasoline; it will go in easier, and you're less likely to damage the o-ring. Later, you'll drop the fuel rail into the grommets in the lower intake manifold, and bolt it down squeezing the injectors in place.

Don't forget to replace the fuel filter while you're in there; otherwise, with the 3VZE it's kinda a chore. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ctures-218962/ Bending fuel line is an art form. In my neck of the woods, you can borrow benders and flare-formers from local parts stores. You might be tempted to replace some lines with rubber "fuel line" and "injector clamps." I wouldn't do that (Toyota doesn't), but I'm sure it works for some people.

 

Thanks! I already got the fuel filter. I'm hoping the the flare not on the tank side comes off easy.

I didn't know about the FSM. Thanks again that's a life saver.

 

I recommend getting the correct metric flare nut wrench. The SAE flare nut wrench is very close, but in removing brass fittings, close doesn't even count.

 

I was able to replace my fuel line to fuel rail with a couple crescent wrenches, problem with that is it is easily strippable, so yeah if your able to get the right tool then do so. My Fuel line broke after years of repetitive movement removing the fuel rail doing maintenance. No rust on my 4runner, just rattle. Good luck.

 

You can get a flare nut off with an adjustable wrench, or even vise-grips. But you are "likely" to either round it over, or squeeze the fitting ever-so-slightly out of round. And then it will leak.

Is that a big deal? You cannot replace just the flare nut. If you have one that now leaks, you have to replace the entire metal line and its two flare nuts (and if you had that much trouble on one end, guess how easy it will be to safely remove the nut from the other end of the line).

So sure, you can take a chance using the tools that are already lying around. Just keep in mind the cost if you turn out to have made the wrong choice.

 

I bought metric flare nut wrenches just for this. It appears that the fuel filter has never been changed by there appearance of the basket and fuel line brackets.