Cyberman

Just got done putting a 4.7 single transfer case behind my V6. And, after playing around with it a little, it gives me a total of 4 usable low range gears for the trails I take. I plan on putting it to the test this weekend, but so far, I am very pleased.

A word of warning about the install though. The first problem I ran into was that it wouldn't shift into 4WD. Pulled the shifter, and could move the Hi/Lo rail, but the 2WD/4WD rail would not budge. I realized even before pulling the transfer off that the 2WD/4WD rail was turned 180 degrees (not good), even after taking a bunch of time to make sure everything fitted properly.

After spinning the rail the right way (having to tear the case apart halfway again), I put it back in, and the same problem. This time, the transmission housing was stopping the rail from moving. I had to cut off the front of the rail, so it cleared the V6 adapter, without it moving into the tranny.

All of my parts were from Trail Gear. With Marlin, this might not have been a problem.

Just wanted to post up my experience.

SpecialScottie

I had the same problem with my marlin dual case adapter

rattlewagon

Pics? I like the single case idea. So you just used a gear driven case and a v6 adapter? Dies it fit in the stock mount location?

Do you feel reverse will be to low with just the 4.7s?

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

It helps when you read the directions for installing 4.7 gears before you do the install as cutting the shift rail is a known requirement.

:wabbit2:

Cyberman

Wabbit, I had plenty of time to read the instructions, while I waited for the parts to get here. The only place the instructions shows cutting a rail is the hi/lo shift rail, and that is the rear of the rail. No where in any of the instructions does it show to cut or grind the front end of either rail.

The rear of the R150 housing has a spot cut out to accomodate the shift rails to move forward, but it looks like the adapter does not line up with that.

Cyberman

I don't have many pics, other than the transfer when I got it, and after it was all apart. The install looks stock, and the transfer shifter is in the same position.

You need a Top shift, gear driven case, 23 spline 4.7 gears, and a V6 adapter. After installing the gears and the adapter on the new transfer (using Trail Gear's instructions), I had to do the following (besides the extra grinding of the 2WD/4WD shift rail):

1. Ground a little out of the hole in the floor so the base of the shift wouldn't hit.
2. Ground out the front output flange to match the hole pattern of the front drive shaft. You can pay the extra money for a triple drilled flange, and it will bolt right up. The rear drive shaft bolted right on the rear flange.
3. Drilled two new holes to move the center bearing of the rear drive shaft back, about 1 inch.

I don't think reverse will be a problem, unless you plan on running backwards for any length of time on a trail.

For v6 owners, I think this is a great stepping stone for going dual cases, if you don't have all the money right away. Another case, adapter, skid plate, and drive shaft work and you've got ultimate duals.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Trying to think how this is different from the one I just did and didn't have to cut anything. I think depending on what year tcase you used they have different length rails, some have to be cut, some don't. I know there is something online that addresses this and shows the difference.

Rather than mess with the shifter hole, I find it's a cleaner install if you cut the shifter and reweld at the proper angle.

:wabbit2:

Cyberman

I apparently have the Type 3 case (according to Marlin). It has a "Hook Retained" 2WD/4WD Rod. I'm not sure how the hook on the end retains the rod, but I cut it off with just a small amount of "hook" left.

As for the shifter, the grinding of the floorboard was minimal for my install.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

In the future you should take pics

Helps folks understand more of what you are sharing.
I know what you mean, but others who are looking to do for themselves probably don't.
The old addage is true, a picture is worth a 1000 words...and they're shiny

:wabbit2:

rattlewagon

What skidplate did you use? Will it work with a stock one?

Cyberman

If you mean the cross member, I used the stock one. The transfer bolts up in the stock position, but the rear drive shaft is moved back about an inch. The slip yoke on the front drive shaft takes up the extra length in the front.

rattlewagon

Thats sick. I need to look into doing this.

Cyberman

Here are some pictures to help describe the shift rail issue I ran into. The first pic is the only one I have of the transfer, before the install. The circled area shows the shift rails. It is currently set at 2WD.



The drawing below shows the shift rail (notches not in place). I know, the drawing isn't technically correct, but you get the point. The dotted line represents approximately how much I cut off the rail, so that it does not hit the rear of the transmission housing. That little "finger" that sticks out points to the Hi/Lo rail when it is installed.