V6 3.0 Intermittent Power Loss, code 71
06-23-2012, 11:32 AM
#21
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thats not all that bad. I'm runnin rich, but no code thrown, mah mechanic said EGR, and that what's I was thinkin, so I'm going to replace both the modulator and the EGR, but he told me that the mod usually goes 1st, so that's what I'll replace 1st.....thanks.
06-23-2012, 12:31 PM
#22
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No problem man. Well just to let you know. I reset my check engine light yesterday prior or installing the vacuum mod. Then I drove a good 50 miles yesterday and the light hasnt turned on yet. So I'm guessing my EGR problem is fixed. But I'm gonna wait till Monday to tell you guys for sure. Gonna drive it around all weekend long.
Last time I reset the light it ended up showing up again within 20-30 miles.
I figure I should have a good 100-120 miles on it by Monday. And if it doesn't light up again then that was my problem.
Last time I reset the light it ended up showing up again within 20-30 miles.
I figure I should have a good 100-120 miles on it by Monday. And if it doesn't light up again then that was my problem.
06-24-2012, 08:08 PM
#25
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Well my check engine light is back up after about 120 miles of driving it with the new vacuum modulator. I'm guessing its gonna be that TPS after all. At least I hope.
Last edited by Redeth005; 06-24-2012 at 08:22 PM.
06-25-2012, 07:44 AM
#26
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Someone on my build thread recommend to me to remove the egr and clean it.
Then I researched that and It worked for some people. I figure its worth a try doing that before going out to buy a new one. I'm gonna clean it today and if that dont work then ill just go ahead and replace both the EGR and TPS.
I just want my Damn truck to run as clean as i can get it to run and have it use just the necessary amount of gas to run right not guzzle it. I want it to pass the Damn smog legally. Especially after everything ive put into it.(if u read through my thread you'll know what i mean) no use paying a guy $150-250 to pass it when thats what It would have costed for the parts I need anyway ya know. Just so fustrated!
Then I researched that and It worked for some people. I figure its worth a try doing that before going out to buy a new one. I'm gonna clean it today and if that dont work then ill just go ahead and replace both the EGR and TPS.
I just want my Damn truck to run as clean as i can get it to run and have it use just the necessary amount of gas to run right not guzzle it. I want it to pass the Damn smog legally. Especially after everything ive put into it.(if u read through my thread you'll know what i mean) no use paying a guy $150-250 to pass it when thats what It would have costed for the parts I need anyway ya know. Just so fustrated!
Last edited by Redeth005; 06-25-2012 at 08:05 AM.
07-26-2012, 06:04 AM
#27
Registered User
To everyone who has struggled or is still struggling with the ton of vacuum hoses on your 3.0 motors this post is for you. Don't do the same mistake I did. Make sure all your lines are connected correctly! If they aren't they can lead to this code 71 problem
this first picture below was given to me directly from the Toyota Dealership. so rest assured these are the correct locations:
This next picture is off another thread which I found most helpful to finding out names to parts and a more detailed look at where some vacuum lines go.
I also wanted to share with you that after getting these pix I had all my lines connected correctly and the check engine light still showed up! So I took a vacuum pressure tester to it and found that one of the metal lines where 2 vacuum hoses connect into that passes through the motor was clogged thus causing the code 71. All I'm saying is even though u might have triple checked your hoses make sure to test each and every one of them because u might have a clogged line like I did. If you do you can always clean it with with a carb cleaner and also by running a wire in it to break through. If not u can always just bypass that part and just connect it directly. In my case The line was the one that goes from my vacuum modulator(Q port) to the "EGR" Sensor; Hence, the "Code 71 EGR FAILURE!!!!
Hope this post is helpful to those of you that need it.
this first picture below was given to me directly from the Toyota Dealership. so rest assured these are the correct locations:
This next picture is off another thread which I found most helpful to finding out names to parts and a more detailed look at where some vacuum lines go.
I also wanted to share with you that after getting these pix I had all my lines connected correctly and the check engine light still showed up! So I took a vacuum pressure tester to it and found that one of the metal lines where 2 vacuum hoses connect into that passes through the motor was clogged thus causing the code 71. All I'm saying is even though u might have triple checked your hoses make sure to test each and every one of them because u might have a clogged line like I did. If you do you can always clean it with with a carb cleaner and also by running a wire in it to break through. If not u can always just bypass that part and just connect it directly. In my case The line was the one that goes from my vacuum modulator(Q port) to the "EGR" Sensor; Hence, the "Code 71 EGR FAILURE!!!!
Hope this post is helpful to those of you that need it.
Last edited by Redeth005; 07-26-2012 at 06:42 AM.
07-26-2012, 06:54 AM
#28
Registered User
Also For your power loss or gas chugging problems just remember some vacuum leaks can cause you to use more gas then its supposed to. Valves not opening up on time or correctly or air leakage etc... you get what i mean.
After we figured out my vacuum clogging problem and fixed it i then asked him about my "gas chugging" problem and he told me it might be my throttle or whatever. Said its most likely dirty. So we opened it up and this is what we found this:
AS YOU CAN SEE, Where my intake connects to was covered in a layer of guck! and that was just off one swipe of my finger. So he bought some heavy duty carb cleaner and sprayed the hell out of it and scrubbed it clean. I didnt get a chance to snap a "After" shot of the finished job, but i can assure u it was nice and shiny. And we all know "Shiny is good"
Next he adjusted the throttle and the line He said i was origionally staying at about 1100-1200 RPMS where it should have been at 700-800. So after cleaning out all that guck he adjusted it and left me at about 750-800rpms. And it rides so much better now! i feel a huge difference in how the truck takes off too.
His explanation for my gas chugging problem is that the ton of Guck that he showed me in that throttle or intake valve (w/e its called[the part where the picture i took is]) The guck was holding that valve open more then it was supposed to be at causing that open and close valve thing to be slightly more open then where it should be at. Also The cable that pulls when you step on the gas was set way too tight. So by cleaning out all that nasty build up, adjusting the throttle, and that line he said that i should see a humongous difference in my gas mileage. And i did see a difference of 2 more mpg. And this is in the hectic stop/go traffic of los angeles freeways, and vast array of stop lights/signs in residential areas.
And if u read through in the past comments that I've left on this tread you'll see that I had my entire engine rebuilt with many new and repaired parts and brand new filters and sensors and I still had all that stuff in my intake. That is because cleaning that isn't included in an engine rebuild. So make sure you check that area out too and if it looks anything like mine did CLEAN IT! Just remember if you do plan to clean it you must do an oil change and change your spark plugs! Do not forget! That carb cleaner is a strong chemical and you don't want that in your trucks system cuz it might deteriorate your seals or who knows what else. I did it the very next day because I didn't wanna take any chances after paying so much to rebuild my motor.
By Cleaning all this guck out and adjusting the gas pedal line tightness, and the throttle thing you will still see a better difference like I did.
After we figured out my vacuum clogging problem and fixed it i then asked him about my "gas chugging" problem and he told me it might be my throttle or whatever. Said its most likely dirty. So we opened it up and this is what we found this:
AS YOU CAN SEE, Where my intake connects to was covered in a layer of guck! and that was just off one swipe of my finger. So he bought some heavy duty carb cleaner and sprayed the hell out of it and scrubbed it clean. I didnt get a chance to snap a "After" shot of the finished job, but i can assure u it was nice and shiny. And we all know "Shiny is good"
Next he adjusted the throttle and the line He said i was origionally staying at about 1100-1200 RPMS where it should have been at 700-800. So after cleaning out all that guck he adjusted it and left me at about 750-800rpms. And it rides so much better now! i feel a huge difference in how the truck takes off too.
His explanation for my gas chugging problem is that the ton of Guck that he showed me in that throttle or intake valve (w/e its called[the part where the picture i took is]) The guck was holding that valve open more then it was supposed to be at causing that open and close valve thing to be slightly more open then where it should be at. Also The cable that pulls when you step on the gas was set way too tight. So by cleaning out all that nasty build up, adjusting the throttle, and that line he said that i should see a humongous difference in my gas mileage. And i did see a difference of 2 more mpg. And this is in the hectic stop/go traffic of los angeles freeways, and vast array of stop lights/signs in residential areas.
And if u read through in the past comments that I've left on this tread you'll see that I had my entire engine rebuilt with many new and repaired parts and brand new filters and sensors and I still had all that stuff in my intake. That is because cleaning that isn't included in an engine rebuild. So make sure you check that area out too and if it looks anything like mine did CLEAN IT! Just remember if you do plan to clean it you must do an oil change and change your spark plugs! Do not forget! That carb cleaner is a strong chemical and you don't want that in your trucks system cuz it might deteriorate your seals or who knows what else. I did it the very next day because I didn't wanna take any chances after paying so much to rebuild my motor.
By Cleaning all this guck out and adjusting the gas pedal line tightness, and the throttle thing you will still see a better difference like I did.
Last edited by Redeth005; 07-26-2012 at 07:16 AM.
07-26-2012, 07:40 AM
#29
Registered User
I know I'm posting a lot; I really am not trying to hog this thread up. But just wanted to really show you guys every problem I had just in case u guys have something similar going on that I did. Because in the end when I took my truck to go get smogged it passed with flying colors and according to the smog tech he had never seen an old Toyota truck such as these old 1st gens pass with such great results; especially on a 3.0. just here to help out fellow YotaTech'ers who are breaking their heads and ripping your hair out trying to get to the bottom of this like I was. Any help is good in my opinion.
Anyway I also wanted to let you guys know that i replaced the set of sensors on the passenger side wheel well because they were just so corroded. and this too can lead to many vacuum problems which cause codes to pop up. in my case this also a factor in my problem. Here is a picture of my set of senors: The green one being the "EGR" one. as yo ucan see the whole inside of that black part is so corroded its hollowed out. That would definitely cause a problem as well.
I ended up replacing the whole set of sensors there because, as you can see, they were no good anymore. here is the new ones. (AS=Blue), (FPU=Green), (EGR=Red) and in the next picture(black/gray one is the vsv)
And a few other things that were causing me to have bad vacuum leaks were these.
This VSV is mounted onto the same plate that you see above:
And the "Check Valve" here in this picture
I think it goes without saying that if yours are in as bad of condition as mine you should replace them lol. If you can find some in good condition in a junk yard you can probably sneak them by since they're so small. but if you pay it wont cost you more then 40-60 for the set. I on the other hand couldnt find any so i bought them straight off the dealer for about $300 for all the new stuff you see in these pix.
Anyway. The truck runs great now. this thread helped me out alot in figureing out my problem and making me determined to find the problem. So i figured i'd add onto this thread for the stuff that wasnt mentioned. Thanks all and good luck!
just here to help out fellow YotaTech'ers who are breaking their heads and ripping your hair out trying to get to the bottom of this like I was. Any help is good in my opinion.Anyway I also wanted to let you guys know that i replaced the set of sensors on the passenger side wheel well because they were just so corroded. and this too can lead to many vacuum problems which cause codes to pop up. in my case this also a factor in my problem. Here is a picture of my set of senors: The green one being the "EGR" one. as yo ucan see the whole inside of that black part is so corroded its hollowed out. That would definitely cause a problem as well.
I ended up replacing the whole set of sensors there because, as you can see, they were no good anymore. here is the new ones. (AS=Blue), (FPU=Green), (EGR=Red) and in the next picture(black/gray one is the vsv)
And a few other things that were causing me to have bad vacuum leaks were these.
This VSV is mounted onto the same plate that you see above:
And the "Check Valve" here in this picture
I think it goes without saying that if yours are in as bad of condition as mine you should replace them lol. If you can find some in good condition in a junk yard you can probably sneak them by since they're so small. but if you pay it wont cost you more then 40-60 for the set. I on the other hand couldnt find any so i bought them straight off the dealer for about $300 for all the new stuff you see in these pix.
Anyway. The truck runs great now. this thread helped me out alot in figureing out my problem and making me determined to find the problem. So i figured i'd add onto this thread for the stuff that wasnt mentioned. Thanks all and good luck!
Last edited by Redeth005; 07-26-2012 at 09:40 AM.
07-26-2012, 04:54 PM
#30
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Holy cow! I looks someone sprayed acetone on those parts (they are not metal, so they will not "corrode" in the sense that metal does, but if drizzled with a really powerful solvent they will just melt away.)
Just so you know, what you call the "sensors" are actually Vacuum Switching Valves. The ECU can activate each of those valves, which will then connect a vacuum line to atmosphere (leaving it with "zero" vacuum).
Having a dealer give you drawings is really nice. Being able to double check them yourself (from the comfort of your chair) is even better. http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...n/layoutan.pdf
By the way, if you had that much "gunk" in the part of the throttle body you could see, how much do you think is inside the plenum (upper intake manifold)? All that carb cleaner you sprayed in there didn't go more than an inch past the throttle plate. If you have as much dirt on the inside as I did, you can expect to eventually (soon?) lose the vacuum that comes from the plenum (and runs the idle-ups and other devices), and find that you can't get the EGR injected into the intake (which will cause you to fail smog on NOx). If you still have the plenum off, just bite the bullet and clean it. In fact, do what I failed to do: remove the freeze plugs from the end so you can clean it easily and thoroughly.
Just so you know, what you call the "sensors" are actually Vacuum Switching Valves. The ECU can activate each of those valves, which will then connect a vacuum line to atmosphere (leaving it with "zero" vacuum).
Having a dealer give you drawings is really nice. Being able to double check them yourself (from the comfort of your chair) is even better. http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...n/layoutan.pdf
By the way, if you had that much "gunk" in the part of the throttle body you could see, how much do you think is inside the plenum (upper intake manifold)? All that carb cleaner you sprayed in there didn't go more than an inch past the throttle plate. If you have as much dirt on the inside as I did, you can expect to eventually (soon?) lose the vacuum that comes from the plenum (and runs the idle-ups and other devices), and find that you can't get the EGR injected into the intake (which will cause you to fail smog on NOx). If you still have the plenum off, just bite the bullet and clean it. In fact, do what I failed to do: remove the freeze plugs from the end so you can clean it easily and thoroughly.
Last edited by scope103; 07-26-2012 at 05:00 PM.
07-26-2012, 05:02 PM
#31
Registered User
Ah ha! Thanks I couldn't put my finger on what the guys at he dealership called them.
And thanks for the advice. I'll definitely get on it when I remove the whole intake manifold to install my replacement BVSV since mine is broken. I just want my 4runner running as clean as possible after getting that engine rebuild ya know. But at least now I pretty much have a brand new truck as far as under the hood goes with the exception of the BVSV. I know that will help a lot as well when I get it done. But for the most part at least it passed the CA smog check without it lol
And thanks for the advice. I'll definitely get on it when I remove the whole intake manifold to install my replacement BVSV since mine is broken. I just want my 4runner running as clean as possible after getting that engine rebuild ya know. But at least now I pretty much have a brand new truck as far as under the hood goes with the exception of the BVSV. I know that will help a lot as well when I get it done. But for the most part at least it passed the CA smog check without it lol
Last edited by Redeth005; 07-26-2012 at 05:52 PM.
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