Greetings fellow Yota fans.

Posting another Q here. As shown in the photo I've made an aux power panel. Thats a 40 Amp relay over on the left. I want to use that to make the fuse block key activated. I wanted to make it active on the Aux function, but I'd have to run another wire from inside. Probably should use the 15A cig fuse. But I dont want to take stuff apart again to do so. But I want to make it keyswitched so I can't do something stupid like leave seat heaters, mirror heat, or any of the light circuits turned on while I'm away.

I was thinking 'why not use the EFI relay ground circuit?' Thats out on the fender well.

So the 40A relay shows .5M coil R. I don't trust my meter now. But an (8v) 9V batt operates the output. .09 ohms when active. So I can't reliably calculate the effect on the current.

The one down side I can think of is that I don't want to mess with my EFI/ COR circuit. (OTOH, if I had a problem, I could easily see if my EFI relay was getting current on the coil side, no?)

Thoughts?

 

If you plan to install it in that corner in picture, Connect positive of relay input to positive of EFI injector resistor, right next to it on picture. Takes power from power bus "F", from Ign IG2 contact. OK to use switched positive because there'd only be a few inches of wire in between.

 

Hey Mr Rad.
I couldn't decide (and had to come S for a funeral) so sunday I just went thru the pain and ran a small signal wire from the radio power inlet (so its also on ACC) out thru the antenna hole, etc and will power it that way.

Being a 95 my wires are slightly different. But what was your opinion for future reference on doing that? So I would have HAD two coils in series using the EFI first (because I had intended to put this 40amp relay 'beneath' or after the EFI coil. The goofy thing was I measured (can't recall off top of head) but a butt-ton of resistance for the 40A coil. (Makes zero sense to my addled brain). But a (weak) 9v battery closed the contacts. I did not want to 'weaken' the field on EFI as it were by reducing the current thru that EFI coild and potentially messing that up.

I still can't understand if that was a valid concern or not. But I took the sissy way out and decided not to risk it. Remedial e-techin' at its finest. I need to get my rear in gear and start a build thread so I can post what I did. I spent a saturday trying to decipher what in the cat hair I did with (now missing in the mail) rear view mirror heaters circuit.

ANd I still can't figure out how to add a remote lock/unlock fob (no alarm). Friday ought to be warmer in CO so the garage will be better when I get back.

Thanks btw.