I'm headed out of town with the truck 22RE and the alternator is not charging (battery check light and brake light comes on) below 1500rpm and won't charged above 12V on the dash gauge at any RPM. I tightened the alternator belt and that seemed to solve the problem (at 6pm). I took the truck out 10pm and the problem was back again.

I replaced the battery today so it isn't the battery. Could the alternator pulley be seizing, is there a way to lubricate it? I haven't done much mudding, but could some mud have got it and if so would power washing it out work.

This is rather urgent, so any advice would be helpful.

 

kind of a long shot. But I remember one time I was off-roading with another guy and this bracket that held a ground wire in place came loose. the ground wire swung down and into the fan which promptly cut in in half. it wasn't on a 4Runner but it's something to consider. well ground in general is something to consider.
A multi-meter would help with diagnosing for sure.

 

The alternator is bad.

 

Well since you are in the market have Boyles Futur Technologies rebuild it. You won;t believe the power output at idle, which is crucial when running PIAA's, Rock lights, and a Winch much of the night on Pritchett Canyon!

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...r-pics-140704/

 

I've got a job interview in the morning about 40 miles away. I'm staying at a friends place 10 miles from my other car and my tools. I think I may limp it home, then get the other car, then rebuild the alternator.

Anyone rebuilt theirs? Am I right to assume its a Denso unit?

Matt

 

Below 1550 rpm, here is what the lights are doing:

 

When the alternator goes bad, what is the actual problem. What a starter goes, its the contacts, what goes on a alternator?

 

Brushes.

 

Can you buy a brush replacement kit?

Will it damage the battery if I drive it? recall that it does kind of charge still.

 

You might be able to. go to napa.

 

You won't make it where your going on battery power alone. How do you know you are 'kinda' charging? The so-called volt meter in the instrument cluster is a joke and should not be used as a tool to diagnose alternator output and charging rates. If you are seeing 12 volts or less it is probably just the battery voltage itself. You should be charging at nearly 14v. Put a volt meter across the battery terminals to check (needs to be running). I would personally be more worried about my truck leaving me on the side of the road than worried about killing a battery. You can buy brushes cheap, but they will need to be soldered in.

 

How about buying a used Toyota alternator? Used are $50 versus $200 for a rebuilt unit of unknown origin (originally OEM?). I can solder, but the brushes seem difficult to find here in Vancouver, Canada.

 

You need a new one or a rebuilt one dude, yours is toast-period.

 

A starter/alternator shop can rebuild yours for around $75 and in a few hours, at least around my area they can. Thats what I would recommend.

 

When my alternator went, it would hold steady at about 11V. I could drive all day like that. The instant I turned anything but the motor on, the battery would dies w/in a few min. It all depends on how bad the alternator is.

 

Or pay $75 more ($150) and get the alternator that won't quit. Like I said if you are ever thinking of addding rock lights and PIAA's or KC's do the upgraded alternator. It makes a huge difference. If cash is tight then have it rebuilt or buy a used yota alternator to tie you over.

From TTORA:

 

I can buy alternator brushes for $10, is it worth it or is it likely somethihg else?

Gotta know within the hour.

 

It's the brushes... Replace them and take it to autozone or whoever and have them test it before re-installing it. If it still doesn't work, then your only out $10.

 

Ok then, good enough for me Mr Schuster. I hope you're right. Your logic is sound.

 

The brushes were worn down to a 1/4". Note: the springs are easy to loose. BUT, the brushes are the same for the 22RE and the 3.0L (3VZE) and they have the same springs. The springs and brushes were about $9.00, but you must factor in new coolant, as you have to remove one of the radiator hoses (power steering only) to unbolt the alternator.