Upgrading OEM Headlights
Dec 2, 2006 | 08:18 PM
#21
Yes, check the voltage drop on your stock wiring:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ryBeforeYouBuy
Simple 10 second test will tell you if that is your limiting factor:
I run the Hella H4 (Vision Plus) lamps, they work fine and are DOT legal. I find the plain H4 bulbs work well. With H4s, you can swap bulbs easily, after running the stock 55/60 watt Hella bulbs, I switched to some 55/100 watt bulbs, made a good increase in the high beam output, along with upgrading the wiring to handle the higher current.
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ryBeforeYouBuy
Simple 10 second test will tell you if that is your limiting factor:
I run the Hella H4 (Vision Plus) lamps, they work fine and are DOT legal. I find the plain H4 bulbs work well. With H4s, you can swap bulbs easily, after running the stock 55/60 watt Hella bulbs, I switched to some 55/100 watt bulbs, made a good increase in the high beam output, along with upgrading the wiring to handle the higher current.
Dec 3, 2006 | 03:36 AM
#23
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 102
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From: Ohio
this is what i ordered... love them... stock wiring because i found that i had a negligble voltage drop from the battery ~-0.5v. that was the deciding factor on upgrading the wiring or not,
from rallylights.com
6054B pair 200mm H4 (h6054) w/ 100/55w H4 bulbs.
$92.60
by far the best money i spent on my truck. i only used the brights when other people are not around, so being over spec is not big deal to me
did you see this??
http://www.rallylights.com/hella/bulb_help.htm
the +30%, 50%, 100% i think refers to the color temp - plus %100 will be at the "blue-ish" end of the spectrum.
so you have your option of the Hella, in a standard, a +50%, or a +100% color temp, or a yellow bulb. or an optilux version of the +100%
i would go with the Hella +50% if you wanted to stay within spec... (pesonal pref)
from rallylights.com
6054B pair 200mm H4 (h6054) w/ 100/55w H4 bulbs.
$92.60
by far the best money i spent on my truck. i only used the brights when other people are not around, so being over spec is not big deal to me
did you see this??
http://www.rallylights.com/hella/bulb_help.htm
the +30%, 50%, 100% i think refers to the color temp - plus %100 will be at the "blue-ish" end of the spectrum.
so you have your option of the Hella, in a standard, a +50%, or a +100% color temp, or a yellow bulb. or an optilux version of the +100%
i would go with the Hella +50% if you wanted to stay within spec... (pesonal pref)
Nice link. I hadn't seen that, that'll help a lot.
Dec 3, 2006 | 01:58 PM
#26
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/BFG_AT_KO.shtml
Dec 3, 2006 | 05:12 PM
#27
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From: Idaho
Dec 3, 2006 | 07:05 PM
#28
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,231
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From: Toronto
I've got 12.5's, i like them.
Oh, and runing bosch conversion h4's, very nice! took a few min to install, unplug old connector, remove 4 bolts, take out old light, install new light, tighten 4 bolts, plug in, DONE!
Oh, and runing bosch conversion h4's, very nice! took a few min to install, unplug old connector, remove 4 bolts, take out old light, install new light, tighten 4 bolts, plug in, DONE!
Dec 4, 2006 | 02:54 AM
#29
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From: Ohio
I think 33x12.5's are too big for stock gearing, I have 0 power, but I HAD to put the biggest I could under the fenders at the time. Well now its time to replace them and I want something smaller, so either the 32x11.5's or 33x10.5's, can't decide.
Dec 4, 2006 | 09:24 AM
#30
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,820
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From: Bakersfield, CA
Well, the width really doesn't have anything to do with the gearing. The diameter is what you should be concerned about. Though 33x10.5's have less rolling resistance, they're still the same diameter as 33x12.5's so both tires will affect the final drive ratio equally. Check what gears your truck came with stock. Mine came with 4.556's due to it having "big tire pkg".
Dec 4, 2006 | 10:16 AM
#31
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,231
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From: Toronto
now, if you have an auto, i believe it's slow.
yeah 33x12.5 bfg mud's.... when i need winter tires im gona go for some 33x9.5 bfg a/t's on my stock wheels.. then it should rip.... (hahah)
Dec 4, 2006 | 09:16 PM
#33
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: socal
If people are always flashing you, it's probably because they're aimed improperly. Don't go cheap... aim your headlights properly and you'll be fine with more powerful bulbs... But like 4Crawler always says, you probably need a better light wire harness to get the correct voltage to your new lights. I took the light upgrade to a different level than just replacement bulbs and did an HID retrofit. For pics visit the link in my sig. or if it's something you want to do and have questions, PM me or visit www.hidplanet.com/forums.
Dec 4, 2006 | 10:29 PM
#34
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From: Idaho
Dec 5, 2006 | 07:10 AM
#35
I don't get flashed in my '85. I find the sharp low beam cutoff in the Hella Vision Plus lamps helps a lot with that. Plus I aim my headlights a little lower than normal for two reasons. One is that when I load up the back of the truck and it sags a few inches, that doesn't kick my lights up too high. I also find the low beams work better in flog and poor visibility if they are not aimed up so high.
Dec 5, 2006 | 07:32 AM
#36
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From: socal
AH64ID, You would think that all the little cars were used to it here in socal, with all the stupid 2500HD's and F250's lifted and their lights are right in the back window of those cars and in their face while oncoming. Oh well, I just feel bad flashing them back because my lights are so bright I don't want to blind them. I have tried lowering my beams and did a test drive here in the mountains and with all the hills and turns and stuff I can't see squat! So needless to say I readjusted them back to what the instructions said to have them at.
Dec 5, 2006 | 11:38 AM
#37
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Bakersfield, CA
AH64ID, You would think that all the little cars were used to it here in socal, with all the stupid 2500HD's and F250's lifted and their lights are right in the back window of those cars and in their face while oncoming. Oh well, I just feel bad flashing them back because my lights are so bright I don't want to blind them. I have tried lowering my beams and did a test drive here in the mountains and with all the hills and turns and stuff I can't see squat! So needless to say I readjusted them back to what the instructions said to have them at.
Unfortunately with the extremely sharp cutoff of my headlights, when going uphill the light sometimes enters the oncoming drivers' view. They flash me, but there's really nothing I can do... Even with HID's (drop in or not) in a lot of cars, the giant Fords and Chevy's with stock lighting are MUCH worse. Driving behind you with what seem like mercury vapor lamps for fogs and like 500w headlights? It's almost as if the car companies don't even have regard for proper engineering of the headlamp reflectors and believe any old mirrored surface will do... 
Dec 5, 2006 | 12:10 PM
#38
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From: NE Arkansas
Yeah, I totally agree with you on the 2500HD's and F250 Unfortunately with the extremely sharp cutoff of my headlights, when going uphill the light sometimes enters the oncoming drivers' view. They flash me, but there's really nothing I can do... Even with HID's (drop in or not) in a lot of cars, the giant Fords and Chevy's with stock lighting are MUCH worse. Driving behind you with what seem like mercury vapor lamps for fogs and like 500w headlights? It's almost as if the car companies don't even have regard for proper engineering of the headlamp reflectors and believe any old mirrored surface will do...
Unfortunately with the extremely sharp cutoff of my headlights, when going uphill the light sometimes enters the oncoming drivers' view. They flash me, but there's really nothing I can do... Even with HID's (drop in or not) in a lot of cars, the giant Fords and Chevy's with stock lighting are MUCH worse. Driving behind you with what seem like mercury vapor lamps for fogs and like 500w headlights? It's almost as if the car companies don't even have regard for proper engineering of the headlamp reflectors and believe any old mirrored surface will do... 
LOL Yeah, I'm looking at upgrading the headlights in my yoti too. I think I'm gonna try sealed beam Silverstars until I get ready to tackle a custom harness and H4 conversion. Maybe I'll get a year out of them. I'll be ready for the other stuff by then. I'm used to driving my lifted Superduty with Silverstar 9007's in it. It's got a ÅÅÅÅton of light output. When I get in the little toy the lights are quite aggravating.
Dec 5, 2006 | 12:18 PM
#39
One option is to upgrade the harness first. You'll be surprised what your stock lights look like at full power, assuming you are only getting the typical 10-10.5 volts to the lights:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ryBeforeYouBuy
Pn my daily driver (VW) I was planning on new headlights, but found the existi ng sealed beams plus harness made so much difference, I stopped and called it good:
http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/Cheap...#WiringHarness
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ryBeforeYouBuy
Pn my daily driver (VW) I was planning on new headlights, but found the existi ng sealed beams plus harness made so much difference, I stopped and called it good:
http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/Cheap...#WiringHarness
Dec 5, 2006 | 03:30 PM
#40
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 4,655
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From: Idaho
I don't get flashed in my '85. I find the sharp low beam cutoff in the Hella Vision Plus lamps helps a lot with that. Plus I aim my headlights a little lower than normal for two reasons. One is that when I load up the back of the truck and it sags a few inches, that doesn't kick my lights up too high. I also find the low beams work better in flog and poor visibility if they are not aimed up so high.
