So I'm replacing the rear 2 u-joints on my 91 short bed (straight shaft no center joint) This is my main transport right now and I've got the rest of this evening and tomorrow to fix it. I rented one of the big bearing removers and cranked down on it, but I'm having a hell of a time getting the spider bearings out. I think I may have broken some of the needle bearings by cranking down on the clamp too hard, or maybe because the flange isn't straight I've got the bearings out of allignment using the big c-clamp tool. Anyway, no amount of work with pliers, vice grips, channel locks hammers, or cursing can get the things out. Anybody have any slick tricks for getting stuck bearings out, or maybe a better way to remove them so they won't get crooked in the flange?
Any help is GREATLY appreciated.

 

is it the same as a 4runner rear ujoint? i had to cut the joint in half with a grinder

 

Did you make sure to remove the snap rings before trying to remove the u-joint? They are little clips that keeps the cap from the u joint in place. When i did the u joints on my runner i used my 12 ton home made press and some sockets and they were still difficult to get out.

 

Don't know if it's the same as the 4 runner, but it probably is. And yes, I did take the snap rings out.
I had to stop and come in a drink a beer and chill out. It was starting to get the better of me
Yeah, tomorrow I'm going to take my saws-all to the joints and if that doesn't do the job. I should be able to pound the bearings out then with a socket and hammer I hope. I wish I had a big fat vise!

 

I did the sacrificial socket and BFH to get them out. Try hitting the caps with some penetrating lube the night before.

 

I use this method when replacing bearings on the u-joints for the PTO shafts on our farm equipment. Nothing beats a BFH.

 

On toyotas they are not easy and anyone who has done them before knows how big a pain in the A$$ they are but sometimes (very rare) they knock out easy. They are not pressed in so you have to knock them out. I would not go cutting anything. Usually they don't go in at an angle and get messed up... Put them an a vise and get a Big big hammer and a (pref brass drift) an old socket or piece of metal and go to hittin. They will come out but it may take a couple dozen hits with a hammer. You can't hurt nothing to just hit it.

 

thanks for the responses guys. Right now, I'm renting and don't even have space for a table and a vice, much to my dismay. I did manage to get the joints out using a little bit of, ah, persuasion. BTW a saws-all didn't really do the job, I had to use an angle grinder, a thin disk and be careful not to nick the flanges. I think I may have fubared the new needle bearings upon installation though. Doh! It's hard to turn the joints in the shaft now. The tool I rented didn't work very well, basically because it can only press things that are perfectly straight and the outside of the flanges are definitely not straight so you can't get a good angle on it. I'm glad I got all my money back on that front anyway.
So, basically I think I might drop the shaft off at a shop and have them press the new spiders in for me and limp around on the front shaft for a day or two.
For future referrence does anybody have any suggestions on how to press the spider bearing caps in straight with minimal tools. Say a big C-clamp, BFH, sockets or other combination. I tried a few different ways but was unsuccessful. Basically more like a trail fix than a shop fix, which is where I'm at right now with my tool availability and space.
thanks.

 

I broke a vise trying to press mine out that way. Easiest way was to put the end of the driveshaft up off the ground with a 2x4, spray penetrating lube on all the caps, let it soak for a bit, then pound the crap out of them with a BFH and socket.

I did end up finishing with an angle grinder, too. Maybe next time, it's off to a machine shop and just have them press the old ones out and new ones in.

 

hmmm thought this was a family site, balls, penis, vibes and pain the arse in one thread. WHat's this world coming to.

 

Well when you take your truck to a shop they don't put a u-joint in the freezer and pentrating oil on the old ones for 24 hours. They take about an hour or less with a hammer and knock them in and out and out the door.

 

err... hit it harder? last time I did u-joints I used a punch the same diameter of the u-joint cap.

look on youtube for some how-to videos..

 

Old thread but wanted to add since I'm going through the same crap. If you lay it so the horizontal spiders r taking the full weight, like supported across the jaws of a loose vice and then beat the crap out of the flange you're working with a heavy hammer, they do come out with enough force. I put new u joints in so i after i got one cap out I just broke the other cap near the cross and twisted the spider out. Then i pounded the other cap in with a big ass bolt. They push in easier then push out.

This was not a cheap day! 4 hours sitting at emergency and 3 stitches because I sliced my right hand ring finger open to the bone and almost degloved that finger on a piece of sharp metal near the forward rear axle mount. Watch that one. If I can get them off pounding with 3 stitches, then so can you, har! I can't swing a hammer left handed. I also broke a vise and had to borrow a friends vice, which is a little too small to follow the recommended procedure with the sockets. I think I might end up buying him a new vice too...oops. It's a little weak at max jaw spread.

I've had to improvise with the smallish vice. No way i can get sockets in there. Getting the new cups in perfectly straight is a very worrisome process. What I did before I called it a day was put both cups in finger tight and then squeeze them both together using the vise, which pretty much required the max spread of my vice. Since both caps are flat and parralel it doesn't matter that the flange is not built even. As the spider races approach the needle bearings u have to stop and make sure it's all in line. Use a screwdriver on the cross as early in the process as possible if adjustment is needed and pray you aren't hurting the needles if you have to adjust midway through. Then make sure both of the races and bearings meet up nicely with no bad angles or rude pressure. Take it out of the vice and check movement because it'll feel tight in the vice but smooth out when the pressure is off. When u get close to flush with the flange stack some washers together and do one cup at a time til you can get your snap ring on. Then flip and do other.

I only did one b4 I had to quit. I should finish and test drive tomorrow so assume no news is good news.