I just had my suspension redone and all is fine with that, the rack was not replaced. After it was back together and alignment done it does not turn a left u turn as tight as it did before. I get around 3.3 turns lock to lock with about 1.6 turns to the left and 1.7 turns to the right. Is the steering normally offset from the factory to go more to the left than right? Or if it is not offset is there a way to increase turning radius with adjustment?

 

So I thought my bumpstops might need adjusting but those were in the exact same position and I still have about 1/2" or more before they make contact. What else limits turning radius? When wheels are straight both steering arms are pointed straight back. Here's some before and after pics.

 

 

I looked again and it seems like there are 4 bumpstops total I didn't see the ones in the back. Other than the bumpstops the only other thing I could see to adjust would be sleeves on ends and that would maybe give it a bit of toe though. Any suggestions?

 

I'm fairly certain facturing lock to lock is in that 3.5-4 turns realm.

You also do not have a rack.

 

Your tie rods aren't installed correctly. Look at the pictures, notice one has only 2-4 threads showing the other has 10-12, these are suposed to be even.

In the last picture the idler arm looks to be canted outwards, it should be straight back with the wheels straight. it should also be parallel with the pitman arm.

I had intended to come post a bunch of inspection stuff for you but it's obviously wrong in the pictures

Inspect column play at joints, inspect column lash at steering box, inspect tie rods are even, inspect pitman and idler arm are parallel and facing aft. If all of those are fine you need to adjust the bump stops.

 

BTW I actually removed all 4 bump stops and didn't change a thing, I still have maybe 1/2" or more before it gets close to any bumpstop. Yes I did notice the left side tie rod is longer than the right. I work on my own cars but I don't know anything about truck suspension which is why I took it to a shop. Obviously it seems like they didn't know what they were doing. Yeah, I realize it doesn't have a rack I'm used to that being the limiting factor on cars. From what I can tell the idler and pitman arms are pretty much parellel and straight back at center, maybe a mm or two off at most. So thanks for the list Co I'll start with that, but I'll probably just end up taking it to a proper alignment shop since that will have to be done if I adjust anything anyways.

 

The threads on the TRE's isn't necessarily important, I've seen aftermarket replacement ends with different shaft lengths, if there is one of those on one side, it could explain the different thread counts.

If you're pitman and idler are parallel and pointing back, with you're steering wheel centered, and both tires pointed forward, it could be a steering box (gear) going bad.

 

After closer inspection it appears that when turning left it hits the big inside metal stop on the frame rail. Main steering pitman arm might be one thread off and it needs a better alignment. Even if that was off a bit I don't know if that explains the lack of turning radius, but mechanically I just can't see how it would be affected. Kinda frustrating, only cuz I can't turn like I used too.