"Don't they make a manifold gasket for your turbo? I know you fabricated the stuff yourself but the turbo side should still match."
Well, it is an odd turbo flange, I already checked it is very close to one of the standard T-x turbo flanges but the bolt holes are off. I think I may have found one but it was about $80

I surfaced my manifold flange which was badly warped from welding, and cut out a thin copper gasket. I coated both sides with copper anti-seize so the copper will help fill in voids, and the grease in it will coke and seal farther. The downpipe currently had no gasket, just using the flare to seal.


It sounds really nice with the turbo, I can really feel the boost, it spools in at 2k rpm, maxing out at 4 psi. The wastegate is really loose, I need to tighten it up. It should reduce creep, and I'll set it up to 5 psi.


When going up the hills on the main road i take at 45-50 mph I no longer have to downshift to 3rd gear to prevent lugging. I can stay in 5th and without moving the pedal, I can hear the turbo spool up on the hill and it goes right up the hill with no lugging. It does not even register on my gauge, just enough to overcome the terrible VE.



"As far as pcv, honda guys use a catch can for the increased blow by"
Catch can for blowby? Could you elaborate please?



"What was your afr while driving?" From the smell of the exhaust it's about rich and a half, stock o2 sensor is narrow band and is probably clogged with burnt coolant from the previous warped head and blown HG.




I felt the intake pipes after a drive and it was about 160*F probably mostly heat absorbed by the toast engine bay. I will probably get an air to water intercooler to cool the air as space is very limited in the engine bay.
If I had not paid $120 for a new IACV I would delete it, as it is pumping 180* water right into the intake for the air to absorb. Just use an arduino to monitor temps and turn on a idle up solenoid when temps are low.

 

I set the timing back to about 2* BTDC and with the stock ECU and fuel I have had no problems at all. No detonation at all. Eventually I plan to also add methanol/water injection that will spray at 5 psi and over.

 

http://oilcatchcan.com

This is the general purpose of having one.

It touches on having a check valve for turbo charged vehicles.

 

I'll also add an engine oil cooler, the radiator I have has a built in cooler in the bottom, so I'll use an oil filter sandwich plate to run oil over to it. The hose barbs for the cooler have an ID of maybe 3/16 or 1/4 inch, is that too small to carry the oil capacity the motor needs?

 

This in mine, not running yet, have a Emtron ecu to wire in.

42pph bosch 4's
GM LS cnp
possible meth injection
crank trigger to go on, low voltage to dizzy for cam signal
oil catch can with sealed blow off
7.5:1 block
KKK audi turbo

You can get a plug in MS2, forget struggling with the AFM.

 

Is your down pipe also really close to one of the brake lines? Mine's within 3/4 inch from the brake line, I wrapped the pipe extra to shield the brake line from the heat.


I ordered a new Denso o2 sensor to combat the rich running.
This week I will tackle the timing cover leak, it'll be a load of fun.

 

i am interested in seeing what you did with fuel? I have the same setup as you are using pretty much. Homemade manifold, t3/t4 60mm, arp studs, king mains, rods, thrust washers, catch can for my pcv vacuum, boost gauge, aem af gauge with wideband. I don’t want to spend money on ecu so bigger injectors? Ideas

 

Pretty sure I see a plastic PCV valve in that last picture.. Go to the Toyota dealer and get a good one that actually seals properly.

 

this obviously wasn’t for me

 

No it was for you, just not an answer to your question..

If you go to a "part store" and ask for a PCV valve for a 22ret, then ask them for the one to a 22re they will give you the exact same part.

If you do this at a Toyota dealership parts counter you will receive two different parts. Both of which are manufactured to much better quality standards. (IE, they actually close off the air flow from the intake)..

To answer your question.. To get more fuel (assuming your guage is telling you you are running out of fuel, lean AFR) your options are.. Bigger injectors, more fuel pressure, a tunable computer, or some combination of those.

 

Toyota on top.
Generic "part store" on bottom.

 

Hey ya'll! Found this old thread the same day I found a turbo for cheap on craigslist (with a wastegate!!!). My main question thus far is how do you deal with exhaust after it's gone through the turbo? Do you just weld up a pipe that drops from the turbo to the downpipe? Also, how does one control how much boost a turbo makes? I've only ever tuned NA cars, this is all new and wonderful to me.

 

Just came across this post again after so long. Did replace that pcv and setup is still running great after a couple years. Did get 25% bigger injectors and I am in the process of getting more fuel at it currently. 255 lph, adjustable fpr. Still running stock fuel management and I wheel my truck 10-15 times each summer. Just updating post👍🏻

 

Looks great, but more than I can manage. I live at 6500' (2000m), so see 18% power reduction. Worse skiing at 10k. I dont want any more peformance than I would have at sea level. Could I just istall an electric fan to presurize the ait intake and leave it at that? What CFM would ir take to make difference? Is this a idea stupid or brilliant?

 

How did this work out?
Based on 89 octane I'm running 8lbs of boost. about 165RWHP 200-225ftlb. I changed out the auto before doing the turbo, what are guys running for MT trans?