dcg9381

Finished the assembly this weekend.
Still flushing the bugs out of the tunable 22RE ECU... That project should be done in the next two weeks.
If you're in TX and want significant HP out of a 22R-series on a budget.. you should talk to me, I'm willing to do one motor as proof of concept for cost plus cheap labor!

AxleIke

I'd like to ask a few questions?

First, how do you get around the compression issue? I've heard the 22-RE is a pretty high compression motor, and that throwing a turbo at it can cause issues, so that one has to run high octane fuel?

I'm assuming you replaced all the connecting rods, but how did you strengthen the lower end? I've heard that the crank shaft and casing are too weak to hold up to much abuse from a turbo?

The build looks great. I'm only asking cause i'm interested in putting a turbo in mine, but have only heard that it's not really feasable.

dcg9381

If you're running a "stock" 22RE, you can do so with some success if you're willing to be reasonable.
To answer your question, I used custom pistons.
The most cost effective way to deal with it on a 22RE would be to use pistons from a 22RTE, which are cheap and available.

No, I used stock rods. Of course, I did the right - shot peened and magnafluxed, measured and checked for strech with ARP harware. The entire set ran around $115 to have done. They're just "well checked" stock rods.

The 22RE has a forged crank with a "5-bolt" main. I've seen drag race motors that put out in excess of 400hp on a stock crank.





It hasn't been feasable due to cost. LC can do one for you to the tune of well over $6000. The main reason why you don't see it done is that no one has dealt with how to control fuel and timing. The aftermarket answers for those problems: FAST and SDS both cost in excess of $1500 after you buy the required hardware.

I've managed to do it for about $400... I control timing and fuel, use the factory wiring harness, the system just drops in. It took me a *long* time to figure it out.

On a stock 22re (high compression) you can run a turbo, but you need to run very moderate boost (<5-6 psi), good gas, and control your timing.

Personally, I recommend the "budget" build up - replace your pistons with 22RTE pistons for ~8:1 CR, and then you're setup great until about 200hp.

AxleIke

okay. That looks pretty good. Now, if you don't mind sharing, what are you in this all told. you said about 400 for the timing, 150 for the rods? i have no problem spending some money, but i've shyed away from LC and others cuz seems like a lot for what i need or want.

Looks like the horsepower is in a good range, with that kind of boost, what are you expecting on the dyno?

I'll have to keep up with this thread, i'd like to see how it does, and what your impressions are after it's back in the truck. This might be in my future.

dcg9381

The $400 megasquirt system is what I charge to adapt it to the 22R-series and build a wiring harness that will plug and play. I've got over a *lot* of time into the development and integration of the system, so I'm only doing one fully prepared system at that price. I'll tell others how to do it for free though...


I'm in this for significant money. Main differences in my build are a $1500 DOA racing head and custom pistons at $600. This allows me to go over the 200hp mark. If you check my website, it details the expenses of my build. I also go a little nuts with powdercoating and use of stainless steel external hardware.

A "budget" 22RE turbo can be done - I estimate it will cost under $2300 and should produce around 180 hp, based on similar motors.
Before you balk at that price, understand that a 180hp motor from LC will cost you over $6k and won't be nearly as drivable.
A base 22RE rebuild will run you around $600-$800.
A turbo kit and supporting SDS will cost big bucks also. They get $750 for their manifold and $1700 for SDS (complete). To the best of my knowledge, no one has come out with a complete kit for the 22RE-series anywhere near this sort of price.


Jeff Mosk has a very similar motor, he's putting down about 300hp to the rear wheels. 12-15psi of boost.
He's been through a lot of "iterative" build up steps, so he's really the pioneer here... The thing that I'm doing differently is the EFI system.

Cast piston setups, I've seen 180 rwhp with ball bearing garrett turbos.
I've got dyno runs if you want them.

For cast piston applications, keep the hp under 200, and moderate boost levels.

Bill

Motor looks good. Can you elaborate why you went with the Steedspeed maifold over headers?(hang up for me right now). Also, is there a reason you went internally wastegated? And where ther any issues connecting the oil lines?

dcg9381

The LC tubular manifold gets poor reviews and costs over $750 last time I checked. I didn't consider it an option.

I have a few sources for manifolds of at least 3 different designs, I can pass them on if you're serious. Costs range from about $350-$550.

Doing it again, I might try a tubular (header) design just for the heck of it. The manifold I have isn't a cast piece. It's actually multiple pieces of steel that were cut via CNC and then welded together. It's significantly stronger than a tubular manifold, I'll have no issues with welds - and honestly, if you saw the design of the ports, you'd know why I went this way... It's setup to maximize velocity just before entering the turbo and actually has a divided setup for t3 turbos that support such.




Oh yea.. It supports an external wastegate...

I generally see 3 manifold designs:
1) Cast
2) Tubular "header" type.
3) What I like to call "pipe steel" - I see these on ebay a lot.

This is the only CNC cut manifold that I've ever seen... I'm happy to refer you to the vendor if you want one.

I went with an internal wastegate because I'm using a low-dollar "break in" turbo. I plan on running it at 5psi for about 500 miles. It's a t3/t04e. After that, I'll go to a ball bearing garrett unit - probably GT28RS or the GT2871R. I size turbos by efficiency range where they're used the most.. If a shop trys to sell you a turbo by "supported HP" they're not doing their homework and may or may not get you a turbo that produces a nice driveable curve. You don't want a lightswitch turbo motor.


Oil lines:
Oil lines are really pretty simple. On the 22RE, there is a port beyind the passenger side motor mount that can be used to oil the turbo. I think the threads are 10mm x 1mm.. You can adapt this to a standard -AN style line.

The drain is gravity feed. You can drill a 1/2" ID hole in the block or simply weld a pipe fitting onto the top of the oil pan.

My motor actually is a 22RTE block, I wanted it because the feed and drain are pre-drilled, but there's no reason why you can't do it on a 22RE block.

Bill

If you'd mind sending me the sources you've got, I'd appreciate it.
The 3 main products I've been looking at thus far are: mild steel or stainless steel from Full Boogie.net, and the same one that you're using.

I've emailed the guy who made the one your using already and got a price from him. Plus I like that fact that his shop is only about 70km away from me.

Cost wise, they all seem to be close very close because I'd need to get the mild steel version coated to deal with winter.

I've working with a 22RTE motor, so I'm glad that the lines won't be an issue to deal with.

dcg9381

You've got most of what you need then. I was going to refer you to Rick over at Fullboogie.net.

Leen built my manifold... He's into toyotas also. You've got his email.

The only other two sources I know of are turbonetics - which makes a cast manifold for around $500. I know of someone selling a used one for $350, PM me if you want that info.

I've seen a few one-off jobs with pipe steel... I think this was Ricks first design also. No reason why it doesn't work, I just didn't like the ghetto fab.

I just had mine done with ceramakrome - similar to hotjet... Definitely do it if you're using mild steel. Get a price up front, I got taken to the cleaner for not asking the price question!

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Bill

meh...cast.

I talked to a company in town that does ceramic coatings, and they quoted me $250(cannuck bucks) to do a header, based on V8 headers, so he said it may be a bit less. So on top of the $350usd for the mild steel, it puts everything in the same ball park.

How much clearance to do you have get at the spark plugs with that manifold? Its another issue that I was thinking about with having the turbo in that location. The Full Boogie headers seem like they come out further, so they may be easier to get at.

dcg9381

I'll check on the clearance.. I didn't think it was a big deal.. Course, I did the rear most plugs of a Hemi 5.7 truck this weekend (2 plugs / cyl) - the only thing worse is a GM F-body....

I had a motorcycle turbo header done by hotjet a few years ago.. I think they charged me $75. This deal was $160 + shipping. Tell them it's a 4 cylinder manifold or header... The tubular one may cost more, I think under $150 USD for a turbular manifold would be OK. A manifold like this should cost $100 or less.

MonsterMaxx

I've got a guy here locally that does a very good job and is reasonable too. He's doing my pistons tops, valve faces, combustion chambers, exhaust ports, NWOR Headers & Y-pipe as well as teflon on the piston skirts for $330.
:bigclap:
Did my Vrod pipes a few years ago too.