1990 Toyota pickup single cab 4x4 22RE Engine. A couple of questions for a tune up.
Right now I’m considering Advanced auto parts because it looks like they stock some fairly decent parts including Denso ignition wire set 7mm
It says in the description these are the identical set. The rest all say exact fit or something along those lines and include sets from accel, NGK then the cheaper house brand.
1. Are the factory plug wires denso? If not which would be best? The denso, accel, or NGK?
2. I’m seeing that Nippon denso W16 EXRU as what came in my truck from the factory, would these be my best bet?
I’m ready to buy these if so.
3. Cap and button. Would there most premium cap and button be good or do I need to get the original Toyota parts??
I just want to make sure I install parts that are going to last and all of these seem to be of a good quality.
Getting the wires from Toyota I’m looking at 100 bucks which I could buy 2/3 sets of the denso, Accel, or NGK for that so I’m not sure
I have heard the NGK plug wires are pretty good for these trucks.
But think any of the 3 would last a long time.
Thanks to all for any and all information and tips you may provide for me.

 

1. NGK RC-TX99A spark plug wire set.

2. Denso W16EXR-U spark plugs. Advance stocks them.

3. NAPA stocks a premium distributor cap with brass contacts part number ECH EP671.

Consider replacing distributor cap o-ring. My 92 22RE cap o-ring fell to pieces when I uninstalled it.

 

What he said ^^^

 

Awesome info here, this oring I’ll definitely be picking up. Is this a dealer only oring?? Going to look into these NGK wires, hopefully they are the ones that advanced auto parts has. I was thinking the denso wires would be what’s recommended.
Thanks

 

Here are the OEM part numbers:

dist cap 19101-35180
dist cap o-ring 90099-14090
dist shaft o-ring 19127-15021
dist rotor 19102-73021
wire set 90919-29055
plug denso W16EXR-U (.031 gap)

 

Thanks Paul, I’ve been considering going all oem but wow there not cheap.
I’m definitely getting the factory plugs and wondering if the NGK wires are as good as the factory ones. Same with the cap and button.

 

Has anyone heard of MCgeorge Toyota? Found the list above of parts at a pretty decent price but am questioning if they would be truly genuine Toyota parts. Total would be just 100 bucks plus shipping for the wires, cap, rotor, cap oring, and plugs.
If these are indeed genuine that’s a decent deal I would think??
Toyota parts deal also has everything at just a bit more.
My concerns are that everything is genuine if I do order the original equipment.
And lastly, Are the original wires better than the NGK set everyone seems to love??

 

McGeorge is top notch. Bought many parts from them. I needed a brake line that was discontinued for my 92, but they went through their parts, and found one that worked perfectly. They even said if it did not work they would let me return it, and they would pay for shipping.

NGK wires are top notch, and so is the NAPA premium distributor cap with brass contacts. Cheap distributor caps have aluminum contacts. Buy the Toyota cap if you don't have to pinch pennies.. No point in spending extra money on Toyota plugs because Denso W16EXR-U are the Toyota plugs. All my local Advance stores stock the Denso spark plugs. Buy the plugs from a local store or a Toyota dealer.

 

Online I buy from three main sources. McGeorge Toyota, Amayama, and Marlin.

Amayama takes the longest, but can really save a ton if done right. But McGeorge can often be cheaper, and shipping will be quicker. Just need to compare and weigh shipping costs and time.
Marlin is very good at have bearing kits that are Japanese bearings.

Denso is the predominate supplier of ignition components for Toyota (doesn't hurt that TMC owns 25% of Denso). NGK is very good, too. Neither will let you down.

 

I’m going with all oem from mcgeorge now that I know they are legit. Thanks so very much.
Oh and the genuine plugs from mcgeorge 1.66 each so I can’t come close to that at any store around here.

 

Awesome and very good to hear. Definitely going with mcgeorge. Thanks so much to all who helped.

 

Ordered everything except the distributor shaft oring, that’s only needed if I was pulling the distributor right??
I did get the cap oring. Not sure why you listed the shaft oring so thought I’d ask. Perhaps there’s a reason this is needed when replacing plugs and wires?

 

If you are not pulling the distributor, and it's not leaking, then you don't need the distributor o-ring.

When you change the cap o-ring, let me know if it disintegrates when it's being removed. Mine did on my 92.

 

Ok thanks that’s what I figured but just thought I’d double check. When I get the parts I’ll get around to installing them soon as I get a chance.
I’ll let ya know how my o-ring looked. I suspect it’s trashed being after a night of rain something gets moisture and I get a miss when I try to take off. I just let it warm up and all is fine again. So something is getting wet/moisture.

 

I listed it for future reference just in case this thread pops up in a search. I did replace mine since I had the head off at the time, so it was a no-brainer. Also, my truck is from Arizona and almost all the o-rings on my 30yr old truck were pretty brittle.

I do like to put a thin layer of dielectric grease or silicon lubricating grease on o-rings for a better seal, easier removal, and keeping them from drying up.

 

Definitely a good idea on the dielectric grease. I’m always weary getting into things the first time but after I’ve been in anything it’s so much easier. I clean and lube everything. Makes it so much easier the next time.

 

Personally, I use Vaseline on o-rings, and other rubber parts. Cheaper by a mile than the silicon dielectric grease. Other than that, the two work about the same either way.
Since I'm a cheap SOB, I use the SDG in electrical connectors, and Vaseline on the rubber stuff.
Just don't glob either one on. A thin coating is plenty.

Have fun!
Pat☺

 

I’ve found woolwax to work on a few things that it’s not designed for like both of my outer cv boots are busted so I spray a good coating in on them everytime I use 4wd and they have held up fine. Lol I am going to pull them and have them rebuilt this summer while I’m driving my summer vehicle. 1994 ford E150 she’s paid for and in awesome shape. Love that van.
I use the permatex anti-seize on all hardware and clean then woolwax pretty much everything on the Toyota. It’s the only way to keep one of these trucks rust free in northern KY. I fully coat it every winter then keep a case of the aerosol version woolwax for extra as needed. It stays on pretty darn good even after hitting it with a pressure wash as long as you don’t try to knock it off.

 

Reason I’m ordering all of the tune up parts is lately I’ve noticed that when holding a steady RPM without load I feel a miss here and there. Idle is low but smooth and it accelerates flawless. Anything over 1000 RPMS without a load I have this miss, and today I’m noticing that I’m even now feeling it in gear anytime while on very light throttle And not accelerating I’ll feel a little buck here and there. Give it some gas and it’s as smooth as can be.
I’m hoping the plugs, wires and button solve this. I believe I’m still running g the factory wires. If not they look to be pretty old.
I picked up a new valve cover gasket set so I can check the intake/ exhaust valve lash to make sure I’m in spec. Anyone have any recommendations on my measurements for iintake and exhaust?? I have the factory specs written down but always like to hear from those who know these 22RE engines well for their thoughts on these things. Should I go to the tight end of the spectrum or loose end?

 

Engine - 20R/22R/RE/RET Valve Adjustment - LC Engineering
https://lcengineering.com/engine-20r...ve-adjustment/