truck overcharging
#1
truck overcharging
my truck has had the charge light coming on since I bought it. it is intermittent light sorta thing.
today I put my digital multimeter on the lighter socket to monitor the voltage.
when I left home the voltage was 14.25vdc and the charge light was on.
it was like that most of the way to work.
then the lights went off (normal Dash display now) and the voltage jumped to 16.25 and it slowly creeped up and actually touched 18vdc by the time I got to work.
when it touched 18v the abs light flickered on. once I got to work i verified on the battery directly that the voltage was high and it was.
i'm thinking this has to be a problem with the wires that go into the side of the alternator.
I'm looking in the FSM and cannot see where these wires go.
any ideas?
ps
i rebuilt the alternator with new brushes and had it tested. then I put it in with new belts. its working fine. too fine id say....
today I put my digital multimeter on the lighter socket to monitor the voltage.
when I left home the voltage was 14.25vdc and the charge light was on.
it was like that most of the way to work.
then the lights went off (normal Dash display now) and the voltage jumped to 16.25 and it slowly creeped up and actually touched 18vdc by the time I got to work.
when it touched 18v the abs light flickered on. once I got to work i verified on the battery directly that the voltage was high and it was.
i'm thinking this has to be a problem with the wires that go into the side of the alternator.
I'm looking in the FSM and cannot see where these wires go.
any ideas?
ps
i rebuilt the alternator with new brushes and had it tested. then I put it in with new belts. its working fine. too fine id say....
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Montana
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had the same issue on my 86 22re. Battery voltage would go to +17vdc with the alternator running. Took the alternator to the parts store, checked it for free. Failed all tests. New alternator now charges to 15.5vdc.
Two weeks later, I had to change my battery. Figure it overcharged to long.
WB
Two weeks later, I had to change my battery. Figure it overcharged to long.
WB
#5
Registered User
Yeah I'd say it's the voltage regulator which, as was mentioned, is built into the alternator. I wouldn't drive it too much until you either get the alternator rebuilt or get a new one and replace it, because running those higher voltages can hurt other things other than your battery.
#6
but that's the thing.
I just replaced the brushes and had the alternator tested at a NAPA on a pretty elaborate machine. it passed all tests.
unless its intermittent.
and why, when the voltage is correct. is the charge light on???
i would hate to buy a replacement alt and find the same problem. I'd be out $300. But I'm leaning that way now
I just replaced the brushes and had the alternator tested at a NAPA on a pretty elaborate machine. it passed all tests.
unless its intermittent.
and why, when the voltage is correct. is the charge light on???
i would hate to buy a replacement alt and find the same problem. I'd be out $300. But I'm leaning that way now
#7
I ordered a new Alt.
What concerns me is that when the thing is working properly (outputing 14.25Vdc) the charge and Parking brake lights are on. When the lights go out, the alt is outputting too much voltage. I cannot explain that....
What concerns me is that when the thing is working properly (outputing 14.25Vdc) the charge and Parking brake lights are on. When the lights go out, the alt is outputting too much voltage. I cannot explain that....
Trending Topics
#9
I don't believe that to be true.
i'm measuring the voltage with a Fluke 79 multimeter. it Measures 14.25V with is proper. the battery light is on.
something is telling the computer to turn on the battery light. When the voltage is too high the battery light goes off. I think there is a voltage drop between the battery and the sense to the computer somewhere so the computer sees a lower than actual voltage.
i'm measuring the voltage with a Fluke 79 multimeter. it Measures 14.25V with is proper. the battery light is on.
something is telling the computer to turn on the battery light. When the voltage is too high the battery light goes off. I think there is a voltage drop between the battery and the sense to the computer somewhere so the computer sees a lower than actual voltage.
#11
Well,
I fixed it.
I bought the new Alternator to install if my suspiciouns turned out to be wrong.
but, they were not. I was right. the White "sense" wire going back to the regulator had a knick in it and corroded right through. I put a splice in it and put it all back together with confidence and fired up the truck. It works like a charm.
The regulator was just fine.
I fixed it.
I bought the new Alternator to install if my suspiciouns turned out to be wrong.
but, they were not. I was right. the White "sense" wire going back to the regulator had a knick in it and corroded right through. I put a splice in it and put it all back together with confidence and fired up the truck. It works like a charm.
The regulator was just fine.
#14
yeah, i determined that before i cut into the truck. i just could not find where the wires went. I knew it wasn't the regulator. well really it was. the regulator cannot regulate properly if it has not feedback.
4runnerguy,, please start a new thread and I'll explain it.
4runnerguy,, please start a new thread and I'll explain it.
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Temecula Valley, CA
Posts: 12,723
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
joust- I think we were going at the same problem from different directions.
I stated the regulator controls the light, which is true, but the nicked / corroded wire was introducing resistance in the circuit thus causing the regulator to incorrectly sense the voltage in the system and consequently causing the lights to light and the overcharging condition.
If it's all fixed, all is good, no?
I stated the regulator controls the light, which is true, but the nicked / corroded wire was introducing resistance in the circuit thus causing the regulator to incorrectly sense the voltage in the system and consequently causing the lights to light and the overcharging condition.
If it's all fixed, all is good, no?
#17
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Temecula Valley, CA
Posts: 12,723
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
I'd be inclined to say that if at idle the voltage is good and the dash lights are off, everything's working, considering before the voltage was good and the lights were on.
cheers.
cheers.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
duckhead
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners (Build-Up Section)
170
11-13-2017 06:07 AM
bigblue82
General Electrical & Lighting Related Topics
10
07-06-2015 08:27 AM
2001, 24v, 32, 95, 98, alternator, charging, cummings, cummins, dodge, intermittent, overchargen, overcharging, problem, truck, volts