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Trouble changing fluids

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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 11:20 AM
  #1  
Gavy's Avatar
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From: Roaring Spring, Pa
Trouble changing fluids

Hey guys need some help I went to change my tranny, transfer case, and both differentials fluid and ran into a problem I started at the rear differential I have a 94 DX 4x4 by the way I made sure that I got all the rust i could off the bolt before hand and soaked it with PB blaster for a couple days so I finally went to change it and the bolt would not even budge I cranked and cranked but nothing so i tried heating it and it still won't come out does anyone have any other suggestions do i need an impact wrench??
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 11:24 AM
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From: Berkeley, CA
This might sound stupid, but I made this mistake myself since I got all the directions screwed up when I was bent under the truck. Make sure you are turning the right way. Luckily for me the bolt was the part that stripped first, so once I got it out after a few hours of work I could put a new one right in there.

Edit: The results from my operation



Last edited by runethechamp; Apr 8, 2008 at 12:08 PM.
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 11:49 AM
  #3  
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From: Northern IL
Yeah use a pipe on the end of your 1/2" ratchet handle to get more leverage. Use a 6 point socket so you don't round the bolt head.

Rob
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 12:06 PM
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Or use a breaker bar so you don't ruin your 1/2 ratchet.
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 12:22 PM
  #5  
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From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Make sure you remove the fill plug first.

You don't want to find out you can't get the fill plug out after you've drained it.

First time I changed mine I had to use a breaker bar and a 3 ft. pipe.
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 12:32 PM
  #6  
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From: Downeast, ME
longer handle and keep going at it...pb blaster, heat, pb blaster, heat. it will eventually come out
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 12:41 PM
  #7  
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From: Searcy, Arkansas
Originally Posted by Marc
Make sure you remove the fill plug first.

You don't want to find out you can't get the fill plug out after you've drained it.

First time I changed mine I had to use a breaker bar and a 3 ft. pipe.
Good advice.
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 12:47 PM
  #8  
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From: Northern IL
Originally Posted by machabees
Or use a breaker bar so you don't ruin your 1/2 ratchet.
Craftsman = guaranteed forever!

Rob
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 01:03 PM
  #9  
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Originally Posted by rdlsz24
Craftsman = guaranteed forever!

Rob
Thats true. But if you break your ratchet you do have to spend the extra time and gas money to go get another one.
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 01:23 PM
  #10  
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From: Hopkins, MN
Agreed with all previous posts. Use a 1/2" or 3/4" breaker bar w/ pipe extension. Start with filler first. If you do use heat (which you already did) make sure it seals afterwards.
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 02:02 PM
  #11  
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Agree with above....

Also, I've found it helpful to take the socket with an extension (all 1/2") and lightly hammer it while on the bolt head. That can help free up the tension.
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Old Apr 25, 2008 | 05:53 PM
  #12  
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From: San Diego, CA
I know there hasn't been any activity on this thread for a few weeks, since I just went through this I thought I'd offer my $.02
My filler plugs on my tranny, transfercase and rear differential were all stuck to the point I cound't budge 'em. I used some of the ideas above, then gave up and went to my local jiffy lube.
This really depends on the kind of people who work/run your local lube place.
These guys are used to things like this, so they have some practice getting these off. I took it to them for my transfercase and rear differential, it took a few minutes, they ended up replacing the plug on the t-case and didn't even charge me. I went home and oiled 'em up.
Once again, just my $.02
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