RSuper

I'm currently in the middle of a clutch replacement - waiting to get my flywheel resurfaced tomorrow. I wanted to prepare myself for re-installation of the tranny. I had a hell of a time getting it off as I used a floor jack and some 2x4's. I'm feeling that this will be even harder to get everything lined back up for installation. Are there any tricks/tips I can do to attempt at making this less of a nightmare?

While I'm at it - should I replace the rear main seal? There appears to be controversy on whither or not to replace it. I do not have gasket on hand, so I would have to pick one up at a local auto-parts store. The truck just turned over 100k and is it's first clutch replacement.

oldblue

i would replace the rear main, you're there so you might as well, especially if it shows any signs of leaking. also, make sure you have no other oil leaks that may make their way onto the clutch (i.e. valve cover leaks). not sure how big a boy you are, but when i do them on the ground on my back, i "bench press" the tranny onto the engine. i find this easier than messing with a floor jack that the tranny wants to slip off of. obviously, if the transfer case is still connected, separate it from the tranny. pop the tranny in gear, and basically bench press it off your chest using a fender cover or towel on your chest to keep it from digging in. use one of your hands to rock the output shaft back and forwarth to help line the input splines up with the clutch. be ready to cuss, manuals can be a bitch to stab due to having to line the input shaft and clutch splines up. Have fun!!

Moonfish

I think I did that one time. I think I had my feet on it too. I don't remember it that well, it is all kind of blurry. Without the xfer case and the oil in it, it is quite a bit lighter. Make sure the input shaft seal is in good shape. And make sure you get the clip on the throwout bearing on right or you gotta do it over.

jreb10

I bought a few extra long metric bolts like those that attach the bell housing. I cut off the heads and machined a groove to fit a flat blade screw driver. These were used as alignment bolts, while I manuevered the tranny jack. I cannot imagine doing this without a tranny jack and the small adjustments it let's you do to home in on the proper aligngment.

RSuper

How hard is the rear main seal replacement? I haven't been able to find any good info on it. I want to be absolutely sure I get this correct, otherwise I will leave it alone.

I like the idea of separating the transfer case out. Do I need a gasket to reseal the xfer case back to the tranny? Could I use grey RTV for this?

highway

Did you replace the pilot bearing ?

VANCE164

iTrader: (1)

Rear main is really easy 6 bolts and the u need a bolck of wood and a hammer. I've done about 6 of these and what has always worked best is pulling the cross member off then lifting it up by hand and possibly putting a jack under the tail end to level it out. And it seems most the time it will only slide in about half the way to 3/4 of the way so then u just need to suck it down with the bolts

RSuper

Replacing the Pilot Bearing this evening. Autozone did not have any pilot bearing pullers that were the right size, so looks like I'll be doing the wet news paper method.

Mr.Utah

I like to tie up the clutch fork with some wire; so the fork is all the way forward, putting back pressure on the bearing. Make sure you put a little grease on the splines.

I think however, no matter how you instal your tranny, its a pain to get it up there and wiggle until it goes into place. Some times the last inch or so is hard to get in. This is when I put force behind it, like laying on my back and feet pushing on the t-case.

x2 on the clutch fork clips.