BearsRunner

I am so frustrated rightr now, was doing some last minute shopping yesterday and my rig kept popping out of first gear. I have the 5spd 3.0, and I have no clue why it is doing this. Any help would be appreciated.

rdharper

Not an expert, but as I recall, this can happen in any gear, and can be either the syncho or a tooth on the gear.

Somebody with specific experience will comment, I'm sure. You should be able to hold it in first for the short time you are using it before a shift to second. Does that not work?

MMA_Alex

do a search for shifter bushing

Ron521

Toyotas sometimes do this (sometimes other gears than 1st), when the plastic socket which serves as the pivot bearing for the shift lever deteriorates. My own truck began doing this on a trip to Chicago, I ended up having to HOLD the lever in gear for 600 miles, otherwise it would pop out when decelerating. I removed the shift lever (lift the floor mats and remove the retainer around the lever by depressing and turning counterclockwise) and found the plastic cup had completely disintegrated, all that was there were plastic crumbs. So when I moved the lever into gear position, it wouldn't pivot correctly and move the internal parts of the transmission fully into mesh.
Good news is that Marlin Crawler makes a replacement socket which is made of a tougher plastic, easy to install and may repair your problem without having to remove the transmission. Cost for the improved part is about $10, and you can probably install it in an hour or so.

toyota_mdt_tech

Easy fix, but only as long as you fix it now. Otherwise, it will grow into a much more spendy repair. You need to replace the shifter bushing. I dont mean the little white nylon one at the end of the shifter, but the green colored one at the pivot or fulcrum. About $15 and at your freindly dealer!

SuperBlue

you're in 1st gear long enough to take your hand off the shifter?
I know a couple of guys who have trouble with 5th gear pop-out. That can be down-right scary on the highway.

BearsRunner

Ron, I already have purchased the Marlin Crawler shift bushings, for the end of the shifter and the one that the shifter sits on. I was having this problem before and called Marlin and they said this was most likely the problem.

mdt tech, I am affraid that I will need to overhaul the tranny, I will take the shifter boot and assembly apart to see if maybe the shifter end cap came off but I don't know if this would happen. Also for more info, When I did replace the bushings I still had a problem with the tranny still popping out of first gear.

1st thing I am going to do is check the bushings again. Next I am going to get new motor mounts, and possibly a new tranny mount. Maybe I need a new clutch as well.

Q; are you supposed to put locktite on the bolts for the clutch pressure plate, or is it ok to just torque them down.

Thanks for the help.

bruzer

I am having the same problem with the first gear in my 92' runner. I have read that worn tranny/t-case mounts can cause this as well as worn engine mounts, but it is said that it's usually the trans mount. Unfortunatly the trans mount I think runs around 125 bucks, and thats from Napa.

toyota_mdt_tech

No, no locktite is needed, ever on any clutch. As for the bushings. If they check OK, and it still pops out,. you are looking at a spendy repair. The failed system called the "inertia lock" is worn down. There is a drive side and a coast side. They are ramped in such a way as to make them pull together under loads, and over time, they become flat (no more ramp) and when they start popping out of gear, this is usually a sign the "ramp" is now going the other direction and pushing the gear out under load. The shifter will dance forward and backwards as this becomes worn, a sure sign of aworn inerital lock system and spendy repair. To replace the inerita lock, there is two parts, one is on the hub or "slider" as its slang name and the other half is part of the gear itself. You will see little pointed teeth on the hub and slider, these are the parts of the inerital lock. A good one will be tapered on the sides after the points. So the gear and hub is required. A close inspection can see troubled area in other gears, but you have to understand the system to see wear and know when to replace. Also, I'd replace all syncros or its real name by Toyota is "blocking rings". When the synchro is set on the cone, there should be a nice gap at the bottom, if the synchro bottoms out or even gets close, replace it! Also, dont even think about doing all this and not replacing bearings. If you have a factory repair manual, a press and a bearing seperator (the clam type) you can do it.

BearsRunner

mdt tech, will I need to take the entire tranny apart to get to these parts. I have a haynes repair manual, and I like to do everything myself to try and keep cost down for one, and I like to know how things work. I am buying a tranny jack and will try and borrow the gear puller and see if my brother has a press. Are there any links that are more detailed as to how to do the tear down the inards of a tranny. And do you think that it would be more cost effective to just try and buy a used or rebuilt tranny?

toyota_mdt_tech

It requires complete teardown. Sounds scary, b ut isnt too bad. But I wouldnt recommend you do it without a factory repair manual. It has the whole step by step process that makes it so easy, your sister could do it! Once you run through it, it all makes sense and you can probably blow right through it next time.

1989toy4wd

It is your syncros...my truck kept poping out of 1st, and it only got worse...i drove about 4k miles with it like that and it started to pop out of 3rd, and wouldnt even go into 3rd. It needed to be rebuilt...BAD, at one point i was driving with only 2nd 4th and 5th. I knew that a rebuild was in my future anyway because of noise in neutral, but it turned out that all my bearings were bad and all my syncros were bad...If I was you I would take it to get it rebuilt. Also get them to put in a new rear main seal in the engine, new clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing...cheap insurance.

BearsRunner

mdt tech, Thanks for the advice. Is the dealership the only place to get the factory service manuals?

89toy, thanks, my 94 pu pops out of 2nd. I will probably be doing the work myself. I will most likely buy the kit from Marlin. For the 90, it's about 200$ I think. I'll just need to get a gear puller, bearing puller, and I have a shop not too far away that will probably let me use his press.


Thanks for the help, when I do get to do this rebuild I will post up some pics and maybe try and write up a thread on it.

toyota_mdt_tech

Some posted synchros, and to clear the air, synchors only keep it from clashing (grinding) but the "popping out" is only from either worn inertia locks or shift bushings.

As for the factory manual, you can find some on ebay. I think you can buy online from "Helms Publishing" maybe?

CyMoN

SHOP MANUAL

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123/links-factory-service-manuals-part-numbers-102344/

4RocRunner92

dont you mean about $80 at your schiesty dealer?

m? shiesty dealer told me $600 for a new cat.......pfft. su my di

toyota_mdt_tech

Wow, now there is a real uneducated response from the mountains of NC YUK YUK

4RocRunner92

pfft. its the truth. like it or not.

BearsRunner

mdt tech, will I need to disassemble the entire tranny, or can I replace the shift forks and inertia locks without having to take the whole shaft apart. I am sure since I am at it, I might aswell replace everything. Right.

toyota_mdt_tech

Shift foks is easy to replace, inertia locks a bit tougher. It will depend on which gear you are dealing with. If you need inertial locks, its going to require good teardown. But with a factory manual, its a snap. I can make other hints when tearing it down. I have an engraver in my box at work and mark each fork and which directions is forward, same for the sliders.