1991 22RE 4wd Pickup;

I just stumbled through my first complete rebuild. I've messed around inside of this engine prior, worked on the head, adjusted valves and timing, little things. So, after a lot of work, tears, yes blood, grease, cussing and money, I have my old block resurfaced and bored-out to 0.04" (0.2 mm??? I can't remember) with new piston heads, shined the crankshaft and had the head gone over, upgraded to a dual timing chain and placed a few new doohickies here and there. Now, I'm at the point where all that stands between myself and the open road is timing, and I can't seem to get it right.

After following break-in guidelines from 22RE Performance and starting with the TDC at 5 degrees, I have the engine up to operating temp, I jump E1 to Te1, shine my timing light on the timing notch, rotate the distributor to retard the engine, and I can only get to the 8 degree mark on the pulley before reaching the end of the distributor's reach. I just can't get the mark to line up with 5 degrees. The engine sounds fine (or rather, I've heard worse). I tried it with starting at 0 degrees as well, but no dice.

A couple items of note;
-I've read to set the idle screw to somewhere between 700 & 900 RPM before setting timing. My truck doesn't have a tachometer (or power steering or other "nice" things), so I have this little after market Bosch tacho that is just hooked up straight to the engine coil. The lowest I can seem to get before the engine wants to die (according to the Bosch) is ~1000 RPM. I'm not sure how reliable this tacho is... but the engine seems to function smoothest at ~1100 RPM.
-When I jump E1 to Te1, the engine does not noticeably retard. The timing notch does a touch, like from ~20 to ~16 (guesstimating), but I recall the engine noticeably slowing down when I've done this before.
-I installed a new TPS. I thought I had set it correctly before I attached the throttle body to the engine, but to be honest, my multimeter gives out weird readings in the ohm setting. I followed directions from the 4crawler post everyone directs you towards, but at the start of setting it, the readings were just all over the place, as in placing the TPS in the same settings and gap I would get multiple different readings. It was like the multimeter was warming up. Eventually it gave out readings that made sense, but it felt dubious. Now, double checking the TPS as it's attached to the EFI, the only reading I get is (1.), regardless of the gap or connection. My multimeter isn't top of the line, but it isn't crap. I've had it for maybe 5 years, replaced the batteries 6 months ago.

Are there any thoughts or suggestions? Is my TPS mal-adjusted? Is my multimeter actually crap? Should I trust this Bosch tacho? I just want to hop in and ride, but I know it's critical to get this right before chugging down the road.

 

The distributor drive gear has 13 (helical) teeth, so if you are off by one tooth, your adjustment range will be off by about 28°. Are you sure the distributor was installed correctly? http://web.archive.org/web/201101242.../5distribu.pdf

You're basically using your multimeter to test continuity; this isn't precision work. When you touch the two leads together, do you get less than 3 ohms? (there is some resistance in the leads, so unless you have a lab-grade 4-wire Kelvin connection, you won't get 0.0) When the two lead don't touch, do you get "1"? The reason people stress about the TPS is that the idle contacts don't press together too hard. So even when closed, you can get some resistance. Toyota helps you out and says "If it's under 2.3K ohms, close enough, call that closed." http://web.archive.org/web/201311071...34throttle.pdf

 

I am following the basic procedure for setting the distributor- cylinders at #1 TDC at 0 degrees on the pulley marker, rotor at 12 o'clock, distributor bolt hole thing lined up about midway and slide it in. If I were off a tooth, and my line up puts me too far above 5 degrees on the pulley, would I place the distributor one tooth to the right or the left?

As for the multimeter, in the 20k ohms setting, it just reads (1.) when I place the leads, anywhere. But it seems that I don't need it if I have a brand new TPS- it should work, so really I just need to adjust it properly, correct? Like, if I set my timing as close as possible, loosen the TPS and toggle it until I find the right spot, would that not work? Honestly, TPS makes my head short-circuit.

 

Also, thanks for the pdf- my ism copy, which is a random download off the web, says to set the dist at 0 degrees TDC, this one says 5 degrees. I'll give that a try and see what happens.

I am also curious why I can't get my engine down to 750 RPMs without it wanting to shut down. At 1000 RPMs it sounds like it is much lower, so I wonder if the Bosch tachometer is off, or if I just want it to be off because that's easier for my brain to process.

 

Ideally the distributer bolt should be fairly well centered in the adjusting slot. If it's oriented at either end I'd check to make sure the distributer isn't off a tooth as Scope103 mentioned. If that looks ok it might be worth pulling the cover and giving the timing mark on the upper cam a check.
The Bosch name doesn't necessarily reflect quality(I'm not a fan), and whether you can trust your tach is going to have to be based largely on how you thought it performed before you did the work.
I don't like using a multimeter to set the TPS. I've posted a few times the way my Toyota Techs did it bitd using a timing light. You'll get much more satisfying results.
Sorry to everyone for the repeat post.Setting/adjusting TPS

Set base timing first

1. Get vehicle to operating temp. Then turn engine off.

2. With a jumper wire connect the E1 and TE1 terminals at the diagnostic box next to the engine fuse box.

3. Connect the timing light to #1 cylinder and check that timing is at 5 BTDC. If not, loosen distributer and adjust. Ideally the distributer adjustment bolt should be somewhat centered in the slot (If the adjusting bolt is at the extreme end of the slot there may be problems elsewhere.)Tighten distributer adjusting bolt.

4. Once base timing is set shut engine off. Leave the jumper wire in place, along with the timing light.

5. Now loosen the two screws holding the TPS. You'll want them just loose enough so you can rotate the TPS.(fwiw I just pull throttle body to do this)

6. Restart the vehicle and double check timing. It should still be at 5 BTDC. (If not, rotate the TPS counter-clockwise)

Now you come to the actual TPS adjustment

7. With the engine running and the timing light on the crank timing mark SLOWLY start rotating the TPS clockwise while watching the pulley. As you turn the TPS you should see the timing mark suddenly advance several degrees. STOP turning. Now VERY SLOWLY turn the TPS back the other way. As soon as the timing goes back to 5 BTDC stop and tighten the top TPS screw. Ideally, like the distributer, the setting should be somewhat centered in the adjusting slot. Go ahead and shut down engine and finish tightening the bottom TPS screw.,

What you’re trying to do is set the TPS right BEFORE the timing jumps.

8. Now pull your jumper wire from the Diagnostic box and remove the timing light.



Note: ideally, both the distributor and the TPS should be fairly well centered in the adjusting slot. If you find either at the extreme end that could be due to a concern deeper in.

 

I'll give that a try. I am more or less giving up on the multimeter, given that it really just tells me a) if the TPS is functional and b) if it needs to be adjusted. Your direction show that I can adjust the TPS without the multimeter. Great.

One question- if the distributor is off by one tooth, which direction would I adjust, to the right or the left?

 

To relist problems;

with the distributor placed at 12 o'clock position and crank pulley set at 5 degrees and cylinders at #1 TDC-

-engine idles no lower than 900 RPM
-engine "hiccups" irregularly
-idle does not retard with e1/Te1 jumped
-adjusting the distributor will get no lower than 8 degrees before running out the end of the adjuster slot
-even at 8 degrees the engine coughs and sputters and wants to shut down
-I cannot successfully set base timing

 

Do it just like the video below shows, and it will be spot on. Once the distributor is installed correctly, you will not be at 12:00. It slides in at the 12:00 position, but it goes back counter clockwise when fully seated.

 

Thanks. When I write the dist is placed with the rotor at 12 o'clock, I mean lining up 12 o'clock and sliding it in, as described in the video.

Still trying to figure out, if the dist is off by one tooth, is it one tooth to the right or the left?

 

Yeah. The distributor starts, not installed, with the rotor at 12 o'clock, best way to tell is to have the rotor on, but not the cap yet. Easy to see that way. Make sure the adjustment slot is about centered.
The crank at 0°, to start the whole procedure off. I'm not sure how you can have the crank at 5°, but #1 cylinder at TDC, unless the timing chain is not installed correctly, or the harmonic balancer slipped a little. They're known to do that when they get old. The two should be matched up. To wit: #1 @ TDC, timing mark at 0.

Start the distributor shaft into it hole. Make sure it's o-ring is in place and in good shape. As the distributor shaft starts to engage the gear it fits into, the rotor will start moving CCW, until it's right about 10 o'clock once the distributor is all the way in. The adjustment slot should remain roughly centred on the hole it's bolt goes in.

Check and adjust, if necessary, the air gap of the distributor's sensor.

Install the distributor cap. The rotor should be pointed right about at the #1 cylinder's wire contact of the cap.
Install the plug wires. Firing order is 1324, IIRC. double check that with the FSM. It's also, usually, on the hood's sticker. The one on the underside of the hood, upper left corner.

SO: now the crank is showing at 0°, the distributor is in, and it's bolt tightened down, rotor pointed right at #1 wire. For now. #1 is @ TDC. Easy to verify with a straw in the plug hole.
Put the T1-E1 jumper in and fire it up. Try to adjust the idle screw so that the idle is about 800-850 RPM. Make sure you're adjusting the Idle Adjust Screw, not the cover screw. Not that *I* ever did that myself...<ahem>.
The timing mark on the crank should be right about 5° BTDC with the engine running. If not, the distributor should be able to adjust it to 5°, with the adjustment available to it.

Shut down the engine, and pull the jumper. Fire it back up again and check the timing. It should be right around 12° BTDC. It will change with engine temp, engine speed, outside air temp, altitude, etc, etc.

Does all my babbling help in any way?
Pat☺

 

I appreciate it, but I've definitely covered all that and still getting the same problems- cannot adjust the distributor to reach 5 degrees before running out of space on the dist adjuster slot, and the engine hiccuping and burping and nearly shutting off. Along with that, when I jumper E1/Te1, the engine idle does not retard, which I've read means the TPS needs to be adjusted. But to adjust the TPS, I need to set the base timing. And, to set the base timing, I need the TPS adjusted....

 

Timing has nothing to do with adjusting the TPS. NOTHING.

Only one TPS adjustment is possible.

The TPS must be adjusted to give closed throttle signal when the throttle is closed and for that signal to cease when the throttle is opened in the very slightest. That's it.

 

You must be a real hoot at parties. A REAL HOOT.

According to 22RE Performance, a functioning TPS is critical for timing, and I've read multiple places that if TPS needs an adjustment, the idle won't retard when you jump E1/Te1 (which is happening to my engine).

So, whatever. Have fun with capital letters.

 

With number one piston on top dead center compression stroke, what's the degree reading on the crank pulley? Hopefully, it's on zero. Otherwise, you have other problems. Let's just hope not!

 

0 degrees.

 

Look jasper, you want real help, or not??

Timing has nothing to do with the mechanics of setting the TPS correctly.

TPS DOES have effect on timing. So does idle speed

Plainly, you don't understand how things work.

Certainly correct TPS adjustment is necessary in order to set base timing.

But THERE IS ONLY ONE TPS ADJUSTMENT POSSIBLE> ONE>

 

Help is why I'm here, getting talked to like I'm an asshole is not. No one is forcing you to respond, so before you hit that caps lock, just go somewhere else.

 

Then just set the TPS so that it signals throttle closed when the throttle is closed and it stops sending that signal when the throttle plate is moved open ever so slightly.

Set the idle speed at 800RPM or slightly lower, and then the timing will move to base when the timing jumper is installed.

If the ECU does not see throttle closed, or it sees RPM too high, timing will not move to base, even with the jumper in circuit.

 

I don't see how a TPS can be properly adjusted without timing being dialed in first.

Well, you can set TPS with a multi meter, completely independent of timing. But with timing not adjusted properly I’m not sure how well you can assess the results

 

So, I used the directions you sent. I couldn't quite get to base timing, but I got within range. I wasn't able to get the timing down to 5 degrees while jumped, but got it to somewhere between 8 and 6 degrees. According to the FSM, the non-jumped timing should be 10-14 degrees, and I think it's somewhere between 12-14. So, then I set the TPS and did the timing over, same results. I tried advancing a tooth on the distributor and it sounds like death warmed over, so I think I'm in the right spot.

The engine hiccups while it's warming up, but I don't hear pinging or knocks. Of course it goes nuts when the AC gets turned on, but it has always done that (next project to fix). Haven't driven it yet, and I am ˟˟˟˟ing nervous.