Downey went out of business I believe.

 

The Downey slip yoke axels were discontinued a few years back when Downey made their own LT kit and moved away from the Rancho hybrid. A lot of that had to do with Rancho discontinuing their kit. The slip yokes are listed in the old catalogs but its copyrighted stuff so I dare not post it here. What Downey went to with the new kit was a modified Porshe CV. It was capable of a much greater angle than the stock CV without the vibration problems of the slip yoke. But at $700 a set the Porshe cv can't compete with the Toyota T-100 CV axel priced at $100 a set.

 

700 dollars for a Porsche CV joint?!
WOW

 

Yeah, he could get a bit more..... but if he wanted to use the T-100 CVs he would have to limit the travel to about 12" so what would be the point? If one was happy with just 2wd configuration the next issue would be non-factory Ball Joints and Tie Rod ends. Also, the bushings on the Rancho UCA were not very good. I did all sorts of configurations and testing on the Rancho concept and just can't justify the added cost and extra complication for an inch or two more travel. It not just about impressive travel numbers.

 

Just had an idea, use your bolt on bracket and uca to make a jig for a solid 1 piece uca.

 

why not register on racedezert or dezertrangers and post links to your kits over there? lots of toyota people on those boards too.

 

So with this kit would it be necessary to run fiberglass fenders? I would like to just keep mine stock looking.

 

Ok then instead of $200 for an upper control arm you will have a $1,100 UCA like the other guys. Plus the Blazeland method allows use off the shelf items. If something breaks just get another core UCA for about $25 and your back on the road. Haven't we gone over this before?

 

Thanks for reminding me, I need to do that. Maybe someone has all ready brought it up and I just need to chime in like I did here at yotatech!

 

It is not necessary to run fiberglass fenders. If you use moderate sized tires with a deep backspace and 15x7 or 15x8 rim the track width isn't crazy wide. Look at the pictures on my website on the perfomance page (take a look and refresh your browser) No fiberglass fenders! The white truck has 35" tall tires-(315/75/R16) (16x8 rim w/ 4" backspace) It also has a 2" body lift. I had to hammer the firewall seam flat, just like you do with fiberglass! A 33x10.50 BFG tire on a 15x7 rim w/ 4.5" backspace is the largest tire that will fit without a body lift or firewall seam flattening. If you think it through and make minor mods the possibilities are wide open. Also laws vary from place to place, so do some research for your area.

 

so wheres them there pics at??, also what probs do you guys forsee if i modify the stock bumpstops?? i kno too much droop and my cv will pop out but other than that what els?

 

Also wondering if you can use a 2" hydraulic bump stop and limit straps for cushion?

 

The CV's won't pop out but too much doop and the CVs will bind, and the grease boots will rip (creating a very nasty geasy mess). Also, the outer tie rod ends and upper/lower ball joints will bind. The design intent was to use the factory components to keep things simple, serviceable, and cost effective. I would not recommend modifieing the stock bump stops and droop stops.

As far as pictures here are a few of Roberts truck at the Rubicon this past August. Also comming soon, Pismo event photos from this past weekend. Keep an eye out for pictures and information on Yotatech and Ultimate Yota, there were a bunch of people with cameras!

 

Man that thing has a helluva stance!!!

 

I personally have not gone this route but a couple of customers shared some ideas they had in mind. One customer said he was building a hydraulic bump stop on his engine cage to catch the UCA extension bracket (directly over the upper ball joint) He said he would send photos, but as of yet I have not seen them. The factory droop stops are decent but some extra reinforcement at the frame bracket is a good idea for severe applications. I welded a 1/4" x 1" flat bar from the bottom of the droop bracket to the upper part of the rear bump stop. If I remember I will post a photo. As far as limiting straps, that could be some added extra strength too. It would require some careful planning, but sure why not!

 

Yeah, that is a downfall of LT for trail use, it gets wider! It isn't so bad to be wide in the desert or sand but when trying to squeeze between trees or rocks it is a hindrance. Things can be narrowed a bit by rim and tire combination. I don't remember what size rim or backspace he said he had? I think the tire is a 33x12.50R15.

 

Well, I got to see Nate's kit in action this weekend at Pismo. It looked really good out in the sand. He jumped it a bunch of times, and flew through the whoops. He also brought out an extra kit so we could get a close up look. It's really beefy. My first impression of what I saw online was a lot of extra leverage on the upper arms. After seeing the extensions in person, I could tell it wouldn't be a problem. Nate's kit is well thought out and constructed very nicely. It should be a perfect fit for someone on a budget who wants extra travel and a wider stance. I'll be saving my money for one down the road. Like most everyone else, I'd love a TC kit on my 4Runner, but I can't justify spending more than my truck is worth just for front suspension.

 

Ok I just made up my mind, blazeland it is. And chevy rear leafs too. Should be able to keep it under 1500 for everything. This is great, now I just need the $$$$

 

why does everyone budget themselves?
our yotas will never be done

 

This is true. I was just making sure I will have enough mulah to get everything and get it done. I like to have an estimated cost ya know. But yeah it prob will never be done lol