Quick questions. I will be installing a lunch box locker in the rear of my 87 Toy truck this Spring. I usually drive this vehicle to Moab but I now have a tow vehicle for it. So, my questions are this. Is it safe to tow by using a tow bar? and will the "lunchbox locker" be a problem while being towed? I don't know these answers, thats why I am asking you guys.
Thanks JMach1

 

Sorry, I don't know the answer to your question. I would guess since there's no power being transferred that the locker would ratchet, but I don't know for sure.

What I really don't understand though is if you're going to drag it, why not just drive it? You're basically putting all the wear and tear on it anyways!

Now, if you had a trailer, that would be a different story (of course, you wouldn't be asking the question either)

 

A lunch box locker usually allows the outer tire to spin faster than the inner, so it wouldn't be a problem. I think that since there is no power going to it that it won't lock up anyway. I think you will be fine, just take it easy around corners.

 

You'll be fine.
Do you have an auto? If not good no worries.But if you do I un bolt my rear drive shaft and strap it up, as to not heat up the tranny and I would hate For it to slip into gear at 65. The front just unluck the hubs so you will be free wheeling the front.

 

I appreciate the input, and it is a manual. My other question is has anybody ever used a tow bar to pull a vehicle, meaning the towed vehicle will be all 4 on the ground. If you have let me know if there will be any problems and dangers of doing this. I will be towing the vehicle to Moab.
Thanks

 

I think they made those tow bars illegal here in TN. I think a tow dolly would be safer, and you'll save wear on 2 tires. heck, you could get a couple spares and use them for towing, then change wheels when you get there.

 

i used to flat tow my jeep with my taco to the trails in arizona. both axles were locked i had no problems going foward but backing on loose dirt is a pain .

i would put the transfer case in (N) and tranny and had no worries and now i have been towing my 85 xtra cab with no problems just unlock hubs and put both tranny and t-case in nuetral . i have done it alot lately with no ill effects ..good luck

 

Do you have to have a steering lock out or something to flat tow?

 

no leave the key in it and keep your wheel unlocked so it will follow the tow rig .

so long as your tow rig is heavier than the rig your towing you should be fine . but a car dolly with brakes sure was a nice change when i pulled the 85 from Fairbanks to Wasilla alaska in a big snow storm . helped keep me straight going through the mountains .

just keep the speed down . i hope it works out well for ya .

wayne

 

where in Mass are ya ? i grew up in Woonsocket RI before i went in the army .

 

Ashburnham is north central MA. It is about 1.5 hours from Woonsocket.

 

i thought you made the name up lol ... i sure miss the food back home .. but not the taxes or the rust !

 

I've A-framed(aka tow bar'd) an MLVW(douce and a half) 200miles before. Auto tranny, locked front hubs, and all 6 wheels on the ground, open diffs though.

But I suspect if I could tow that, you shouldn't have a problem towing your runner.

 

I've towed two different Yota thousands of miles with a towbar, and my father towed his all over the US behind his motorhome. No worries. (Also my customers have towed countless stuff including Yotas for zillions of total miles... )

Couple things to know though-
1. Sudden stops are a no-no! Be smooth.
2. Be CERTAIN the steering wheel remains unlocked. (I have horror stories about this...) This means leaving the key on - so you might want to disconnect the battery so it doesn't go dead.
3. Be sure the front hubs are unlocked.
4. The Toyota owner's manual said something like leave the transfer case in neutral. Other vehicle manuals that say this generally also say to stop towing and drive the vehicle a little ways every few hundred miles. (This is to keep everything lubed up internally.) Riiight. Problem is to get the t-case in Neutral it connects the front and rear driveshafts together so they both turn. (check for yourself!) So, when you are towing the entire drivetrain is turning except the front wheels (hubs unlocked, remember.) We found that it makes a HUGE difference if instead you leave the transmission in Neutral (manual transmissions ONLY!) and the tcase in 2Hi. Less drag from moving parts - it towed much better. When dad got a bigger motorhome with a diesel it didn't matter, but towing with another truck or with the small motorhome it made a noticeable difference in gas mileage! I towed my 4Runner on numerous 600 mile trips - no worries. He towed his Xtracab many thousands of miles and it never hurt it.
5. With an auto, of course you have to leave the tcase in Neutral. (But put the trans in Neutral too just in case.)
6. Stop and check everything often. Not just the hitch and chains, check the lights. Then check to make sure the steering is still unlocked and the trans/case whatever is still set the way you left it. (I have horror stories about this too..)
7. Tow dollies suck. Really suck. IMHO either flat tow it or get a trailer.
8. In some states (and all of Canada) towed vehicles are required to have brakes if over a certain weight. Check it - cops love this stuff!! If you are gonna flat tow a lot, and tow it with the same vehicle all the time, it's easy to get tow brakes put on there. If not, get a dolly or trailer.
9. You will need lights working on the towed vehicle. Either connecting into the existing harness to run the existing lights, or adding additional lights (magnetic lights for example) will be required.
10. This shouldn't have to be said (but then half of what I wrote above should be common sense) but Do Not bolt your tow bar to the front bumper. It's not NEARLy strong enough... (More horror stories...)

 

Yea every thing he said, But I have a friend that trashed His 4 runner auto because it slipped into gear at speed. I have a couple of rigs and the 5 speed has the least worries. You will be fine....

 

I've seen towed cars come into the shop with no front tires because the steering locked, 4 flats and ruined brakes because the tow vehicle braking system malfunctioned, a completely blown engine because it was left in gear, entirely totalled because it got away - the chains and towbar were attached to the bumper which of course was still hanging from the back of the motorhome...

Some were caused by lack of common sense, some by poor attention to detail, some by bad judgement, and some by purchasing poorly designed equipment...

 

I am thinking that common sense is needed here. I do appreciate all of the input. What I am towing is a 87 22ret Toy P.U.. The vehicle towing is a 2005 Chevy Colorado. I know its a Chevy. The Toy is a manual and I am able to put the transfer case in neutral. What I will probably do is remove the drive shafts just in case. My only concern is the steering, that would really suck if it decided to lock up on me, and yes I will disconnect the battery and have the key turned on. Again thanks for all of the input.
Merry Christmas
JMach and family

 

I thought maybe you had a superduty diesel or something to tow it with... The Colorado isn't the most powerful thing ever and the weight of the two vehicles is probably about the same. Really doesn't make sense to tow one minitruck with another minitruck... Just me - but I still don't see why you don't just drive the Toyota...even if you had to drive slower, is it going to take longer than taking out the driveshafts and putting them back in? And the risk of something happening to them during removal/replacement?

My $0.02

 

I have towed my Suzuki Samurai all over and it has lockrites front and rear. If you really don't want anything to happen, just disconnect the driveshafts. It isn't that difficult and that way you know everything will be okay once you get to the trail. I've only done this once, though, all other times it has been fine with the drive shafts in place. Of course everything is still in neutral also. Just my .02
-pat

 

Soem good info here, but... According to Marlin, the rear shaft MUST be disconneted or you will burn out the tcase. The oiling doesn't work w/ the tcase in neutral.

I say drive it, but that's just me. If you tow, pull the rear shaft.