Towing capacity on 91 runner
04-08-2007, 04:54 PM
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Not much. I'd wager about 2K...
According to the tow rating guides I've looked at, the 91 4Runner is rated for 3500lbs with a max tongue weight of 350lbs.
http://www.campinglife.com/towrating...OYOTA+&yr=1991
http://www.trailerboats.com/towratin...ake=Toyota&yr=
According to the tow rating guides I've looked at, the 91 4Runner is rated for 3500lbs with a max tongue weight of 350lbs.
http://www.campinglife.com/towrating...OYOTA+&yr=1991
http://www.trailerboats.com/towratin...ake=Toyota&yr=
Last edited by 91_4x4runner; 04-08-2007 at 04:56 PM.
04-08-2007, 05:58 PM
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With that engine/truck combo I'd say your real world tow capacity is about 1500 pounds. It's probably rated to tow 3500 pounds as far as what Toyota would rate the frame/truck to safely handle as per technical specs (although we know the frame can handle more), but with the engine listed like I said I'd say 1500 pounds would be my comfortable limit. That's assuming your truck is in top shape - oils changed regularly, regularly changed gear lubes, no leaks, and a cooling system in top shape i.e. newer thermostat/water pump, fairly fresh coolant, and no holes in the Rad or anything like that.
With a bunch of the popular mods done on this engine like headers, cams, exhaust, intake, etc, I'm sure you could get it into the 2000 pound category with reasonable comfort but this wouldn't be my first choice for a regular or even semi-regular tow rig.
With a bunch of the popular mods done on this engine like headers, cams, exhaust, intake, etc, I'm sure you could get it into the 2000 pound category with reasonable comfort but this wouldn't be my first choice for a regular or even semi-regular tow rig.
04-08-2007, 06:16 PM
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04-10-2007, 05:37 AM
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06-27-2008, 08:57 PM
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In 4 low 4wd, I yanked my buddy's doser unstuck out of a ditch. We had a long enough recovery strap that I was on concrete though, lol; the CV joints were cusing at me in the end...
With the 22re, you can't expect much to be honest. Like others have mentioned, I be willing to say the truck frame itself would easily support 3500lbs +, but I wouldn't expect the 22re to move it very easily. 4 low might get it rolling; obviously not very fast though. You would probably burn up a clutch trying to tow anything much heavier than 2000lbs in a stop-and-go situation; but if it's a one time thing over a strech where you don't have to stop and accelerate more than a couple times, I don't see the harm; as long as your brakes are up to it as well...
With the 22re, you can't expect much to be honest. Like others have mentioned, I be willing to say the truck frame itself would easily support 3500lbs +, but I wouldn't expect the 22re to move it very easily. 4 low might get it rolling; obviously not very fast though. You would probably burn up a clutch trying to tow anything much heavier than 2000lbs in a stop-and-go situation; but if it's a one time thing over a strech where you don't have to stop and accelerate more than a couple times, I don't see the harm; as long as your brakes are up to it as well...
06-27-2008, 10:14 PM
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If toyota calls the rating 3500 lbs, it's 3500. DO NOT take any stamping on the bumper as gospel. Always refer to the vehicle manufacturer's recommendation. The truck may not get up and boogie with that much weight, and will not like more than a very slight grade without downshifts, but it'll pull the load. Keep in mind that a 3500lb trailer means you're pulling the equivalent of 2 4runners.
Much of what goes in to determining the towing capacity are the strength of the driveline: axle shafts, gears and driveshaft and the gear ratios; and braking capability. Engine power is more like a 3rd tier item after the above mentioned factors and frame/hitch capability. The clutch is only a factor when taking off from, and coming to, a stop- if you slip the clutch when you shift you're not shifting correctly. You don't even need the clutch to upshift and only really need it to downshift if you're engine-braking or maybe when downshifting for a grade/hill.
The hitch-
If you are using the stock bumper hitch, the consensus recommends not exceeding 1000 lbs... fine... I might argue, but the point is wasted. If you must tow more than that, get a frame mounted Class III or Class V receiver or a bumper-receiver combination rated as Class V: it's the toughest, period, and doesn't cost much more than a Class III.
The 'rule of thumb' for tongue weight is "10% of the trailer weight on the tongue". If for some reason, tongue weight will exceed the recommended max weight of 350 lbs due to trailer design or how you must load it, a weight-distributing hitch is highly advised, (with sway control if funds permit,) and you should use a Class V hitch/receiver due to the added stress on the hitch caused by the weight-distributing hitch.
As for the trailer itself-
if it and its load weighs more than 1000 lbs, I recommend brakes on the trailer. Most states have laws requiring brakes on trailers exceeding 1000-1500 lbs as well so it's a moot point. If the trailer is only going to be pulled by one vehicle, I recommend electric brakes on the trailer and a brake controller (rated for at least one more axle than the number of axles the trailer has brakes on). If multiple vehicles will be pulling the trailer, the cost of hydraulic/surge brakes is worth it since brake controllers won't be required in every tow vehicle. For stability, I recommend tandem axles with brakes on the front axle. If you have the choice, trailing arm /torsion axles ride better than leaf spring/equalized axles, but are more expensive.
Much of what goes in to determining the towing capacity are the strength of the driveline: axle shafts, gears and driveshaft and the gear ratios; and braking capability. Engine power is more like a 3rd tier item after the above mentioned factors and frame/hitch capability. The clutch is only a factor when taking off from, and coming to, a stop- if you slip the clutch when you shift you're not shifting correctly. You don't even need the clutch to upshift and only really need it to downshift if you're engine-braking or maybe when downshifting for a grade/hill.
The hitch-
If you are using the stock bumper hitch, the consensus recommends not exceeding 1000 lbs... fine... I might argue, but the point is wasted. If you must tow more than that, get a frame mounted Class III or Class V receiver or a bumper-receiver combination rated as Class V: it's the toughest, period, and doesn't cost much more than a Class III.
The 'rule of thumb' for tongue weight is "10% of the trailer weight on the tongue". If for some reason, tongue weight will exceed the recommended max weight of 350 lbs due to trailer design or how you must load it, a weight-distributing hitch is highly advised, (with sway control if funds permit,) and you should use a Class V hitch/receiver due to the added stress on the hitch caused by the weight-distributing hitch.
As for the trailer itself-
if it and its load weighs more than 1000 lbs, I recommend brakes on the trailer. Most states have laws requiring brakes on trailers exceeding 1000-1500 lbs as well so it's a moot point. If the trailer is only going to be pulled by one vehicle, I recommend electric brakes on the trailer and a brake controller (rated for at least one more axle than the number of axles the trailer has brakes on). If multiple vehicles will be pulling the trailer, the cost of hydraulic/surge brakes is worth it since brake controllers won't be required in every tow vehicle. For stability, I recommend tandem axles with brakes on the front axle. If you have the choice, trailing arm /torsion axles ride better than leaf spring/equalized axles, but are more expensive.
Last edited by abecedarian; 06-27-2008 at 10:18 PM.
06-27-2008, 10:26 PM
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Good bit of info there abecedarian.
Personally, if I'm hauling something, I don't like it to be much heavier than the weight of my own truck. Towing someone over a short distance (I've hauled many-a broken down full size trucks back to their owner's house) is different IMO, cause I'm not driven through town with the load; I take the backroads where I can keep speed down and coast through stop-signs, lol. But trailer weight I try to keep down to a minimum. The most I'll haul is a vehicle about the same weight as mine on a trailer.
Class IV hitch on my truck bolted and welded to the frame; Personally, I would NEVER rely on a stock truck bumper to tow anything; I don't care what kind of truck it is...
Personally, if I'm hauling something, I don't like it to be much heavier than the weight of my own truck. Towing someone over a short distance (I've hauled many-a broken down full size trucks back to their owner's house) is different IMO, cause I'm not driven through town with the load; I take the backroads where I can keep speed down and coast through stop-signs, lol. But trailer weight I try to keep down to a minimum. The most I'll haul is a vehicle about the same weight as mine on a trailer.
Class IV hitch on my truck bolted and welded to the frame; Personally, I would NEVER rely on a stock truck bumper to tow anything; I don't care what kind of truck it is...
06-27-2008, 11:06 PM
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Good bit of info there abecedarian.
Personally, if I'm hauling something, I don't like it to be much heavier than the weight of my own truck. Towing someone over a short distance (I've hauled many-a broken down full size trucks back to their owner's house) is different IMO, cause I'm not driven through town with the load; I take the backroads where I can keep speed down and coast through stop-signs, lol. But trailer weight I try to keep down to a minimum. The most I'll haul is a vehicle about the same weight as mine on a trailer.
Class IV hitch on my truck bolted and welded to the frame; Personally, I would NEVER rely on a stock truck bumper to tow anything; I don't care what kind of truck it is...
Personally, if I'm hauling something, I don't like it to be much heavier than the weight of my own truck. Towing someone over a short distance (I've hauled many-a broken down full size trucks back to their owner's house) is different IMO, cause I'm not driven through town with the load; I take the backroads where I can keep speed down and coast through stop-signs, lol. But trailer weight I try to keep down to a minimum. The most I'll haul is a vehicle about the same weight as mine on a trailer.
Class IV hitch on my truck bolted and welded to the frame; Personally, I would NEVER rely on a stock truck bumper to tow anything; I don't care what kind of truck it is...
Coasting through stop signs? lol... we call that a 'california stop'.
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