So this Idea is coming from my aircooled VW side. Instead of cranking the T-bars so that they are under more load, why not pull them out, rotate them a spline or 2 and then put everything back together. Then you would still get the lift, but not the harsh ride.

 

Makes sense, lets see if it works.

 

I've been thinking about this too....that's how we've done it with the rear of the old subarus.


they're harder to get to than on the subarus, but I think it could still be done.

 

thats what i figured everyone was doing in the first place lol

 

In ALL the torsion bar threads i've read, i've never heard it be done before. Maybe for some reason it's just not possible but if it is, be sure to let everyone know...

 

its keyed so it only fits in one way

 

Thats what i thought...good to know.

 

bingo

even if it wasnt keyed 'turning' the bar wouldnt make a difference. You apply pressure to the torsion bar by "turning" it with the bolt on the rear end of the bars.

You dont have this bolt adjustment on other 'torsion' type suspensions, like a VW bug.

 

There are companies out there though that make the keys in different than stock shape. They're available for Ford and Chevy, so a Toyota application isn't too far off.

On that note, I believe OME makes a different tor-bar just for this purpose, no key needed.

http://www.arb.com.au/News/Internati...rsion_Bars.pdf

http://www.arb.com.au/old-man-emu-4x4-torsion-bars.php

 

rotating the bar, by whatever fashion, has the exact same effect. You're limiting your movement in one direction & expanding it in the opposite direction. You need to be exactly between the two bump stops for maximum effectiveness, ride quality, & handling.

 

The only way you are going to put more load on the torsion bar is if you add weight to the front of your truck. If you twist the bars for lift you only change the set point of the bars. The harsh ride is due to the increased angle of the A-arms. As the A-arm angle increases more of the shock load from hitting a bump is transfered through the arm and to the frame instead of into vertical motion.

 

They only go one way, so its not possible. Torsion or twist is the same result no matter which end you do it from. The only reason to consider this would be if you ran out of adjustment room and wanted more twist, which is a bad thing to do anyways cuz its pretty bad when they break, and they will eventally. With 26mm T-bars from Downey at $158, its not even worth it.

 

Exactly! I have seen one guy that re-indexed his t-bars. I've considered doing it myself because I have uncranked the adjustment bolt as far as safely possible and it's still a little too high. To re-index them you have to grind off the indexing spline.