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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Torn CV Boot. What else should I do when I replace it?

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Old Aug 19, 2023 | 04:10 PM
  #1  
Omak90truck's Avatar
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From: Seattle, WA
Torn CV Boot. What else should I do when I replace it?

I'm looking for some advice. I have a 1990 4x4 pickup with the 3.0 liter, manual transmission and manual locking hubs. I just noticed a tear in the outer cv boot on the passenger side . I know I need to replace that promptly, but I'm wondering what else I should do while I have things apart. When I checked the front end components, I didn't see anything that jumped out at me. Some of the bushings are borderline, but the ball joints didn't feel loose. There's no wobble when driving. The steering is a bit loose, and every once in a while I get a slight clunking sound when I turn sharply, but it isn't a problem riving it. The truck has 220,000 miles on it and previous owners weren't too kind with it. I found many of the parts I've looked at were end of life. With that in mind, I tend to assume parts are worn down and I've been trying to replace them before they fail. I haven't needed to do major repairs on the steering or suspension yet, but I have replaced the steering stabilizer, the power steering pump, the bushings on the sway bar, all four shocks and the tires. Should I think about replacing ball joints, pitman arms, etc. The parts aren't horribly expensive, so cost isn't a factor in the decision. What about brakes? From what i can tell, it looks like the pads probably have 50% of their material left. Anything else worth taking a look at while I'm in there?
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Old Aug 20, 2023 | 06:02 AM
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scope103's Avatar
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I would inspect the suspension components, but I wouldn't replace good components just because they are inexpensive. (Have you ever broken a bolt removing a component?)

You didn't ask, but I have some advice. First, price rebuilt half-shafts. To replace the outer boot you have to replace both (the boots come off the inner end). It's a messy, thankless job. There are two types of boot clamps; whichever clamp tightening tool you have the replacement boots will come with the other type. By the time you buy both boot sets, you may end up paying more than a rebuilt. Unless you know the metal of your half-shafts is really pristine, there's a lot to be said for leaving the rebuild to someone who does this every day.

More importantly, the half-shafts must be at the right angle to come out. If you put your truck on jack stands with the wheels dangling, the angle is wrong and you'll never get them out. Some will advise all sorts of havoc like pounding out the precision shoulder bolts in the diff. flange, or separating the ball joints. Instead, load the wheels as thought the weight of the truck was on the wheels (I put a trolley jack under the brake disk, and lift until the weight just starts to transfer from the jack stand). The half-shaft will be at the right angle and will come out easy-peasy.
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Old Aug 20, 2023 | 11:24 AM
  #3  
Dumpolina's Avatar
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From: 87110 NM
Originally Posted by scope103
First, price rebuilt half-shafts.
From where? The last I got from the chain stores were very poor quality. I ended up using my spare OEM and kept the reman as a spare I hope I never have to depend on.
Napa Extended Travel? $350! Are they worth it?
Thanks!
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Old Aug 20, 2023 | 10:57 PM
  #4  
Omak90truck's Avatar
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From: Seattle, WA
I appreciate the advice. By inexpensive, I meant they didn't cost thousands of dollars except for some of the highest end performance parts. I saw that Moog parts were in the $200-300 price range, but I've run across very mixed reviews about them. I've seen some OEM parts that look like they would price out to a couple of hundred more. I saw rebuilt half axles and that does seem to be a good alternative. They weren't that much more than a set of OEM boots.

When I checked things, I saw that several of the bushings were noticeably deteriorated. Can just the bushings be replaced? That would probably cover all of the noticeable wear. Things like the idler arm, pittman arm, etc, look fine. They aren't rusted and show no visible damage.
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