Timing will not lock out
12-19-2009, 12:44 PM
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Timing will not lock out
A about 6 months ago the timing lock out to set the initial timing stopped functioning in my 88 4runner with a 22RE. When I jump the two terminals the check engine light flashes, but the timing is unaffected and will advance when I rev the engine.
This has become a bigger issue recently because I had to pull the dizzy and now I need to set the timing again.
Any thoughts? I was thinking maybe there is a fuse or a fusible link somewhere in that circuit that I can’t find.
thanks
This has become a bigger issue recently because I had to pull the dizzy and now I need to set the timing again.
Any thoughts? I was thinking maybe there is a fuse or a fusible link somewhere in that circuit that I can’t find.
thanks
12-19-2009, 04:40 PM
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12-19-2009, 04:43 PM
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just set ur timing to 13*..its about 5* short circuted or do all this 
"Ok ready, first pull off the efi fuse for a couple of seconds, then reinstall it. Grab some Autolite #65 plugs, and side gap them at .048. Set the valve clearance to .011 cold. Install the factory carbed thermostat {Pappy: it's a 180* vs. 190*). Adjust the AFM 3 teeth rich (under 5000 a.s.l.). Start the motor, let idle till you reach operating temp. Set the timing at 16* "not short circuted," {Pappy: about the same as 8* shorted} then take it for a putt, re check the timing, and enjoy. Leave the airbox alone, for it's not a cause of starvation on a stocker, and don't worry about the muffler for now. If you're going to modify the exhaust, start with a header, and 2.5" headpipe."
"Ok ready, first pull off the efi fuse for a couple of seconds, then reinstall it. Grab some Autolite #65 plugs, and side gap them at .048. Set the valve clearance to .011 cold. Install the factory carbed thermostat {Pappy: it's a 180* vs. 190*). Adjust the AFM 3 teeth rich (under 5000 a.s.l.). Start the motor, let idle till you reach operating temp. Set the timing at 16* "not short circuted," {Pappy: about the same as 8* shorted} then take it for a putt, re check the timing, and enjoy. Leave the airbox alone, for it's not a cause of starvation on a stocker, and don't worry about the muffler for now. If you're going to modify the exhaust, start with a header, and 2.5" headpipe."
01-08-2010, 10:49 PM
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The computer won't go into base timing unless the TPS sends the signal that the engine is at idle. How does it get the signal that the engine is at idle? The signal is 0Ω measured across the bottom two terminals of the TPS [the Factory Service Manual lists the specification as "less than 2300 Ω"]. Pull the connector off the TPS and measure the resistance across the bottom two terminals with the throttle at idle. It should be near zero ohms.
A very common problem is a sluggish TPS that doesn't return to idle when the throttle returns to idle. This is caused by years of oily residue creeping out along the throttle shaft and gumming up the TPS spring. Here's a picture of a TPS at idle. Notice the position of the TPS lever:
Here is the TPS held at WOT [wide open throttle] with a screwdriver:
Here's the same TPS with a gummed up spring that doesn't return to idle when the screwdriver is removed. Notice the position of the lever isn't at the idle position shown in the above picture:
This is the most common reason on the 22RE why the computer won't go into base timing when the jumper is installed.
You can spend over a hundred bucks for a new TPS, or you can clean up the gummed up return spring with some carb spray. Just spray into the spring area as you work the lever back and forth until the lever will return to the idle position on its own, with no hesitation. The spring is separated from the resistor area by a very effective seal. The spray WILL NOT get into the resistor area of the TPS.
A very common problem is a sluggish TPS that doesn't return to idle when the throttle returns to idle. This is caused by years of oily residue creeping out along the throttle shaft and gumming up the TPS spring. Here's a picture of a TPS at idle. Notice the position of the TPS lever:
Here is the TPS held at WOT [wide open throttle] with a screwdriver:
Here's the same TPS with a gummed up spring that doesn't return to idle when the screwdriver is removed. Notice the position of the lever isn't at the idle position shown in the above picture:
This is the most common reason on the 22RE why the computer won't go into base timing when the jumper is installed.
You can spend over a hundred bucks for a new TPS, or you can clean up the gummed up return spring with some carb spray. Just spray into the spring area as you work the lever back and forth until the lever will return to the idle position on its own, with no hesitation. The spring is separated from the resistor area by a very effective seal. The spray WILL NOT get into the resistor area of the TPS.
Your post helped me greatly as I was having the same problem as the threadstarter. However even after I cleaned up the inside and got it to return properly I am still not getting the proper resistance readings as it states in the manual, I put it back together anyways and tried the paperclip again but it didn't seem to make any difference. I assume mine is just fubared. Is there anything else I can try before I just replace it?
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01-09-2010, 10:04 AM
#8
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The computer won't go into base timing unless the TPS sends the signal that the engine is at idle. How does it get the signal that the engine is at idle? The signal is 0Ω measured across the bottom two terminals of the TPS [the Factory Service Manual lists the specification as "less than 2300 Ω"]. Pull the connector off the TPS and measure the resistance across the bottom two terminals with the throttle at idle. It should be near zero ohms.
A very common problem is a sluggish TPS that doesn't return to idle when the throttle returns to idle. This is caused by years of oily residue creeping out along the throttle shaft and gumming up the TPS spring. Here's a picture of a TPS at idle. Notice the position of the TPS lever:
Here is the TPS held at WOT [wide open throttle] with a screwdriver:
Here's the same TPS with a gummed up spring that doesn't return to idle when the screwdriver is removed. Notice the position of the lever isn't at the idle position shown in the above picture:
This is the most common reason on the 22RE why the computer won't go into base timing when the jumper is installed.
You can spend over a hundred bucks for a new TPS, or you can clean up the gummed up return spring with some carb spray. Just spray into the spring area as you work the lever back and forth until the lever will return to the idle position on its own, with no hesitation. The spring is separated from the resistor area by a very effective seal. The spray WILL NOT get into the resistor area of the TPS.
A very common problem is a sluggish TPS that doesn't return to idle when the throttle returns to idle. This is caused by years of oily residue creeping out along the throttle shaft and gumming up the TPS spring. Here's a picture of a TPS at idle. Notice the position of the TPS lever:
Here is the TPS held at WOT [wide open throttle] with a screwdriver:
Here's the same TPS with a gummed up spring that doesn't return to idle when the screwdriver is removed. Notice the position of the lever isn't at the idle position shown in the above picture:
This is the most common reason on the 22RE why the computer won't go into base timing when the jumper is installed.
You can spend over a hundred bucks for a new TPS, or you can clean up the gummed up return spring with some carb spray. Just spray into the spring area as you work the lever back and forth until the lever will return to the idle position on its own, with no hesitation. The spring is separated from the resistor area by a very effective seal. The spray WILL NOT get into the resistor area of the TPS.
01-09-2010, 10:07 AM
#9
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Your post helped me greatly as I was having the same problem as the threadstarter. However even after I cleaned up the inside and got it to return properly I am still not getting the proper resistance readings as it states in the manual, I put it back together anyways and tried the paperclip again but it didn't seem to make any difference. I assume mine is just fubared. Is there anything else I can try before I just replace it?
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
01-09-2010, 01:05 PM
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Try adjusting it.
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
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