Hip,
What is the best way to check for fuel leaks on the rail once I get to that? I did buy new crush washers and have heard one can re-pressurize the rails to check for leaks. Did not see anything in the FSM on this one...
Thx!

 

You're welcome. For the technical help. Since, I'm not a vet. I do know quite a few though. So I'll be sure to pass it along.

Whoops! Simultaneous posting. You can reuse those. I always have done so. And never have had one leak as a result. But since you aren't, chances are you won't. But you'll see and/or smell gas if you do. But I wouldn't be worried about that occuring...too much anyway. You should be fine. The only way I know of to pressurize the system is to turn the fuel pump on. Various ways to do that. Jump the FP and B+ check connectors, then turn the ingition switch ON. Or turn the ignition switch to ON, and open the vane/flap in the VAFM. Or...whatever other way I'm not thinking of at the moment.

Oh yeah, you might have to crank it over a few times too(one of the other ways not prev. mentioned). To let the lines fill up with fuel. If you're worried about it starting when you do that, just pull the HT wire off the ignition coil first. It won't start, but you might end up with a trouble code that needs erased.

 

Hip,
It is all back together except I have a issue with all of the vac lines on the pass side. Some are clearly marked while others are not and some are broken. It did start up and runs like ˟˟˟˟e and is smoking white smoke. Surely the vac lines must go on right but the diags out there are not clear. Is it supposed to smoke like that? I am kind of freaking out but am stepping away from it a bit. I like to think the fact it started IS a victory...please help....

M

 

The smoking went away. I went to get more vac lines and am hoping there is a GOOD CLEAR vac diag out there...somewhere.....

 

I dug up some diags and think I got the vac lines squared. Waiting on a timing light and I am smart enough, only barely, to walk away from it tonight and clean up and take my Honey out. Great granny has the kiddos here tonight.
I will let you know how she times up.

M

 

MH,

Yesterday I road tested her and she ran like a top. Got up to temp and ran ac, went thru stop and go and highway and no probs. THEN.....today was returning a bunch of over bought stuff and the check engine came on. Stopped at a buddies shop and she died. Little bit of black smoking but not too much. I think it is vacuum related? I disconnected the neg battery and the light went off. It is seemingly intermittent and I am stumped. Any thoughts on this one? Also, I stopped and got the OBD1 read and it tossed a 42 and a 43 codes. Dang it.
Thx

M

 

Anyone help me get my mind around changing the rear main seal? I need some guidance.
thx!

 

remove tranny, clutch, and flywheel. Pry out old seal, stick new seal in. Reinstall tranny, clutch, and flywheel. Not too bad. Worst part is pulling the trans.

 

Swim,


Thx,
I am dreading the two top bolts on the tranny. I heard they are a beast PITA to get out.


M

 

LONG extensions with a swivel joint have helped me in the past. The only downside is you lose the torque needed. Easiest way I found was to use an impact on the long extensions. It takes a bit, but it eventually works.

 

Hey guys, ive been doing a ton of looking around and seems like op and me were in the same spot except he got his timing right and I lost mine. Mudhippy said worry about crossing that bridge if it comes, and im at that bridge. all the timing on the belts is fine went to tdc for compression with distributor out, then installed distributor pointed at about 11 oclock before distributor pickup line, and it just pops and wont start. ive done this step 4 times now and am at a loss.

 

The link for the pdfs in this thread are not working.
Anyone have any good links for changing a timing belt on a 1990 3.0?