I just got my Ol Yota back yesterday after being away from it for 6 months. Anyways the timing is off pretty bad. When I got it back it wouldnt even idle without me giving it gas. I've adjusted the distributor a little and now it idles but still runs bad. My problem is now I cant get it to run any better, no matter how much I move the distributor. What should I do now. Note that this is without using a timing light. I'll have to borrow one from a friend.

 

If it was running fine when you parked it, I would suspect the gas went bad on it. Todays gasoline just isnt the high quality it used to be. If you have a 1/4 tank, I would try and fill it the rest of the way up or drain and replace the gas.

I have heard of mixing Stabil into old gas and feel that by then it is to late to mix it. Needs mixed when first parking. Setting your timing by ear should get you close enough til you can atleast get a timing light.

Only other thing would suggest would to give it a new tune up so you arent going in circles.

 

It hasnt set up or anything. I traded it but got it back. The guy said he was driving down the road and it jump time. Also the carb has gas misting from it. Im pretty sure it didnt do that when we traded at the beginning.

 

I would suggest pulling the valve cover and set the dot on your camshaft at the 12 oclock position and see if the crankshaft shearpin is at the (12 oclock I think) position. May need to refer to manual as it may be the 6 oclock position as if you were installing a new timing chain. That should tell you if the chain is in the correct position. I cant see it jumping a tooth off without causing alot of problems, but anything is possible.

Then verify that your distributor is in the correct position. Having everything at TDC. From my experience with the timing chain marks and distributor set at its correct position, it is close enough to run right at this point.

I think in my 88 runner build, I have a youtube video that works great for me on getting the distributor in the correct position. Otherwise when I have pulled a distributor, it will be a tooth off and still run but cant get it to the correct setting that it should be, as the distributor will hit its physical stops.

Here is the video I found. It is on page 27 post 662 if this link doesnt work http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=u6b-vnsk5xA

 

http://www.bluebassdesign.com/boonin/carb_faq/

make sure he didnt mess with the carb. great info in the link

 

thank you both for the links, im sure they will help me a lot.

 

Watched wheeliepetes YouTube video and found out my distributor was off a tooth. Runs better but still runs rough. I need a timing light.

 

Setting it by ear to the best that you can guess should get you close enough now, that I would suspect a vacuum leak, tune up, or carb issue. At least you got one problem corrected. The youtube video works great for me.

Looks like bone collectors link has alot of good info. Dont think you are to far from having it running right soon.

 

that linked saved my bacon a few times. i printed off 2 copies, 1 for the garage and 1 for the glove box

 

I noticed yesterday when I was messing with it that my advance on the distributor didnt change at all when I removed one or both of the vacuum lines off. I took them off a few years ago and I though I remembered there to be some kind of vacuum to it. Right?

 

I am sure it is suppossed to. I have a 88 22r and will try the same thing you are talking about and see how strong the vacuum is and post the results.

I am more comfortable in the 22re world then the 22r. My truck appears to be unmolested and runs great. If you would like, I can post pics of the vacuum lines or try similar test and see what happens. I am weak in the carburator department, but can use mine to compare it to if that helps. Might take a day to post results.

 

Man that would be awesome if you can post results. That would help me out so much.

 

Didnt mean to leave you hanging. Went out of town and the laptop is a pain in the rear. Click on picture.

At idle the front had no vacuum and reved it up it the vacuum got stronger as the revs went up.

On the rear it had vacuum and when the revs went up the vacuum would go away.

Not the best video, but should show what I am trying to say.

 

Thanks for the video brother. I just got a timing light so im about to go out there before it starts to rain see what I can do.

 

Alright so I warmed the engine to operating temp, plugged the vaccum lines and set the timing to 0. Then I plugged everything back up and it stayed at 0 and still ran very rough. I tried adjusting the carb but nothing changed. I dont really know what to do. Get another carb?

 

I would make sure you got some good gas in the system and try some good carb cleaner. It could be carb, but I would try about anything before replacing the carburator.

Did you get any vacuum on the hoses?

 

Yea I have vacuum on the hoses. Im gonna replace the plugs and try some gas cleaner and some good carb clean, might through a little seafoam on it.

 

It's not uncommon for the advance plate in a distributor to sieze.
It's also not uncommon for the diaphragm to stop working.

I would suggest pulling the diaphragm off and verify it does move with vacuum applied to each port, and make sure the advance plate in the distributor can move easily.

You can use carb cleaner and such to clean the advance plate, but only use a dry lube for lubricating the plate if you get it moving. "Wet" lubes like 3-in-1, WD-40 (which really isn't a lube) and such attract dust, which is not what you want there.

 

Alright thanks for the help. So where exactly is the advance plate? Sorry I havent done much work on or with a distributor but Im a fast learner.

 

I havent done any work on the Yota in a couple weeks. But i was wondering if I should do a compression test or not. What do yall think.