I thought I heard some spark knock in a Toyota truck I bought a few weeks ago. I followed directions from here to attempt to set the timing but the RPMs did not change when I jumper(ed) the TE1 and E1 (I think) points in the diagnostics plug. So, I set the TPS and fixed that problem after which I did get the 100 rpm drop when the jumper was in place. I do not have a sticker under my hood so I set the timing to about 10 degrees. Now, when I drive it, it has no power until about 3200 rpm and then it takes off. I searched and found mention of similar problems, but no solutions. Can anyone guide me in the right direction?

 

Did it have power below 3000 rpm before you reset the timing? In my experience neither the 22re or the 3vze is worth much below 3K. 3-4.5K is where they start to shine (relatively speaking, that is.)

Also check for any diagnostic codes.

 

Yeah, it used to be relatively smooth all the way through the RPM range. Now it is very sluggish below 3200 and all the sudden takes off!

Edit: Codes are 25 (lean condition), 41, 42 (TPS)

 

For what it is worth the VAMC is within spec, and I checked for vacuum leaks with some carb cleaner around the intake and vacuum lines and did not find any leaks.

 

I am going to keep documenting my progress because although I found many threads with references to this problem, I never found one with a solution.

I have now replaced the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Re-adjusted the TPS and set the timing at 5 degrees BTDC. Pulled the idle adjustment screw and sprayed carb cleaner in the orifice, and set the idle at around 750 rpms, along with everything mentioned above.

It runs good in the first 1/4 throttle then it absolutely falls on it's face until WOT where it runs pretty good again. I have ordered a TPS (denso) and will update after it is installed.

 

maybe there is a tear in the idle screw o ring? also, could be a flat spot or a bad spot on the vafm. sounds like an a/f issue. my truck will do that if i mess with the air/fuel mix. once it gets going and picks up enough rpm's , it screams and runs fine. as if it pops and bogs.

 

That sounds just like mine. Maybe it is the VAFM.

Replacing the TPS was a failure. It made no change at all. It runs just like it did with the old TPS, so I guess I will swap them back out. One thing of note, the truck runs much better with the TPS unplugged. The engine light comes on, but it accelerates smoothly throughout the RPM range.

Replacing the VAFM is really all I have left, I guess I will try to find one.

Edit: FWIW static and dynamic testing of the VAMC shows correct values. I am still going to look for another unit to at least test with.

 

This guy had exactly the same symptoms and it ended up being a problem with the AFM, seems like the next step.

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/80...m-93-22re.html

 

O2 sensor tested at Ox1 and ground. Shows oscillation when hot, but only 5 in 10 seconds.

{Testing completed using an iPhone 6s stopwatch, Fluke 114, and I am certified in counting by the Royal institute of Ascending Numbers}

 

New idle screw o-ring, it didn't do anything to improve the situation but it needed replacing anyway.

 

Check EGR performance, opening too much and or too early on acceleration?

Sticky Air Flow Meter door and or internals, try clean and or lubricating AFM air door?

Any leaks in intake air hose between AFM and throttle body?

Dirty throttle body and or leaky gasket?

 

Those are great points Kiroshu, The EGR appears to be blocked off (I didn't do this), AFM operates smoothly, I am going to check again for leaks.

Is the EGR being blocked off a bad thing?

 

If it's blocked off with actual block plates then EGR is not causing your problem haha.

 

Okay, thanks. I have heard that in some cases it can cause drivability problems if blocked but I was not sure in the 22re.

 

So, you got me looking at vacuum diagrams and I noticed that the large hose running from the side of the air intake box to the resonator is missing on my truck, and the place where it would connect on the air filter box is just open.

 

Well if the air injection hose is missing your exhuast is not getting extra O2 to burn any free hydro-carbons. This system is not metered air in any way into the engine. The system is only there for emissions purposes.

As for your initail problem with the torque cure ( no power until after 3200), I suspect bad adjustment of the TPS. I had the issue in the past just like you have after I thought I adjusted the TPS. The adjustment is very fine, as fine as a human hair. The adjustment of the TPS took me four tries.

HERE IS A HINT:
Pull the throttle body.

Loosen the screws.

Tighten the bottom screw to just the point it is not easy to move the TPS.

Push the TPS to the top, and keep the top screw loose.

Reinstall the throttle body.

Try to start the engine, if it starts, good.

If the engine does not start, tap the end of the TPS down very gently with the handle of a screw-driver. (very fine taps as you do not want the TPS to move alot). Keep doing the process until you can get the engine to start.

Now test drive it. The truck should kick and buck so as you press the peddle.

If the truck is kicking and bucking, you will want to tap the TPS down again, and test drive some more.

Keep doing this process until the kicking and bucking stops, at that point your TPS will be very close to where it should be. You can then tighten the top screw and then double check your adjustment on the bench if you like.

 

I am going to give this adjustment method a try. I just want to be clear... by up you mean as far clockwise as it will go?

 

yes, correct.

 

Many thanks to Dark Fairytales for the advice. I did as he suggested and eventually got to a place where there is only a tiny flat spot from 3000-3200 and that may be timing or some other problem. I am going to call this one finished.

Final thoughts:
**Yes, the problem is probably the TPS, I know you have adjusted it, replaced it, whatever... Do it again, I'm glad I did.
**You are going to have to pull the TB the first time you remove the TPS, don't waste time trying to avoid it.
**Replace the bolts with hex head screws while you have it off.
**Everything I did was worthwhile, it runs so much better now and I am sure that is because of a lot of little things like the tune up etc.
**The first time I tried to follow DFs advice I moved the TPS too much at each adjustment. So, I printed a millimeter ruler off the internet and taped it to the TPS as an index so that I made sure I only moved it a tiny bit at a time. The difference between totally wrong and pretty darn good was half a millimeter.

 

Good to see your up and running again.

It would by nice if the FSM described how fine of an adjustment is to setup the TPS properly.