buckz6319

TNRabbit...thanks again for the input...I understand what you were talking about now....
It has been raining here all day again, like the past 3 weekends and having no cover to get under to do the work I'm forced to wait 2 more weeks until I can get to it.
It sucks not to have a garage any more. I sure do miss that convenience of having a garage and some day I will have to build another one

buckz6319

In between the rain today I took advantage of a short window of sunshine to snap these.

I think it has jumped time on me while i'm waiting to replace the belt and related conponents.
What is your opinion?...could this be missaligned because it is on the exhaust and not TDC?
is it possible that a timing belt could jump a tooth or did the person who replaced the belt last time just get the belt off a tooth and didnt realize it?

TNRabbit

Why are there two threads on this? I answered you in the other thread, righ after the goober told you to adjust the distributor & it would fix it....


Both cams are off one tooth.

jasonbrink

Can anyone tell me what length bolts they used when making the tool Bugs posted a picture of? I'm getting ready to make it tomorrow, and just have to go pick up the hardware. Also- do you drill the holes toward the edge as in the drawing or put them in the middle? Or doesn't it matter?

Thanks!

Jason

buckz6319

I would guess that the bolts have to be long enough to penetrate from the tool through the bolt holes in the crank pulley.The bolts also have to be long enough to protrude through the camshaft pulleys in order for the tool to hold the crank and the camshaft pulleys in place while loosening or tightening the bolts

TNRabbit

I simply tightened mine after I got the belt back on w/tensioner in place (put in 5th gear first!).

jasonbrink

Unfortunately I have an automatic.

bugs1961

Jason,

Put the holes about 3/8" from the edge so you will have the largest gap possible in the middle for your socket. I have had no trouble with the holes trying to tear out from that distance. I answered your PM today. Haven't had access to the internet until now. Take care,
Bugs

jasonbrink

Here's some more information on the bolt and parts selection needed when you are making the tool posted by BUGS1961:

I went to a local fabricator and purchased the bar stock (2 pieces- 1-1' and 1-3" x 1/4" thick x 2" wide) for $15. No idea if that's a good deal or not, but it was fast and easy (and I didn't have to cut it.)

I hope this will help many more people in the future, as much as it did me. What a simple and useful tool. Having 2 1992 Toyota V-6 vehicles, this is an indispensable tool. I also suggest buying a very good 1/2" impact, you will be SHOCKED at how much time you save and how little swearing you will do after using one of these for so many jobs on these trucks. If you live in the rust belt, it is a must.

I was lucky enough to work for IR, in Athens, PA. That's where they make all the air tools. I got one of these while I worked there: http://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Rand.../dp/B0002SRM7E
And it has saved my a$$ so many times.... That crank bolt everyone complains about? I just used this impact to get it off in under 3 seconds. No kidding. 90 psi on the regulator to remove the bolt. No other tools necessary, and plenty of room to use it with the radiator out. This impact is amazing, by far the best out there, and really not THAT expensive when you consider the power of this thing. It's unreal. Buy one.

Thanks again Bugs1961 !!

Originally Posted by jasonbrink
First, thank you for posting the information on the tool you made for this awful job. It looks like it's going to be just the ticket to get these things off.

My question before I go to the hardware store is: What length bolts do I need for this? Actually, if you could make a list of all the hardware I need, I'd really appreciate it.

So far I have written down:

2- 8mm threaded bolts- Length?
4- nuts for above
2- 9/16" Grade 8 bolts- Length?
4- nuts for above
1- 3/8" grade 8 bolt to hold it together- 1" long?
1- lock nut for above

Thanks again for the help and the tool idea!
Jason



Looks like you have everything on your list. The 8mm x 1.25 bolts that I use are 40mm long. Be sure to get 10.9 strength because they have a huge amount to torque applied and will bend if they aren't strong. Different years have some variations in depth of pulley grooves in the crank pulley so you may need shorter or longer bolts. I use hardened washers to take up extra room when I work on a pulley that needs a shorter bolt. You won't need any nuts for these as they thread right into the holes in the pulley. I had to go to a dedicated bolt and nut store in ABQ to find the 10.9 bolts after I bent a few grade 8.8 bolts.

My 9/16" bolts are 2" long and use the same holes that the 8mm bolts go through. The 8mm bolts are loose in the holes but it doesn't make any difference.

The 3/8" bolt is 1" long and is in a 3/8" hole since it doesn't have to do anything else.

I use flat washers under all bolt heads and nuts to prevent gouging out the iron bar stock.

I bought the bar stock at Home Depot and use a hack saw to cut a foot off to make the tool.

I have had great luck with this tool and it takes all the hassle out of removing the crank or cam pulleys.

Take care and have a great day,
Bugs
__________________
'89 V6, 5 spd truck and '07 FJ Cruiser

buckz6319

Great Posting ...
I plan on taking a lot of pictures on my timing belt and related components replacement and will post them at a later date
Dwayne

bugs1961

I posted a picture of my son holding my cam and crank tool with the bolts attached to use on a cam pulley here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ng-off-183341/ in post #5. The forum wouldn't let me post it here again. Take care,

Bugs

TNRabbit

Here ya go:

buckz6319

TNRabbit
Good Job with the pic
I'm on schedule to do my timing belt rplacenent Saturday it will be sunny here and no rain..I have been looking forward to this for 5 weeks and now the time has come and hope things go well
I'll post up my results after the job is complete

bugs1961

Yea TNRabbit, that's great! How do you get the picture in the thread like that?
Bugs

TNRabbit

You right click on the pic and select "copy image location", then put [IMG] before the link and [/IMG] after the link with no spaces. you have to have hosted it on a site somewhere to do that; can't do it from your computer~

bugs1961

Thanks much for the info but I think I'm too old to learn those tricks! I guess I'll just use the thumbnails. Take care,
Bugs

buckz6319

Well I got home today after work and started on my timing belt replacement and related components .I have removed what I need to so I'm at the timing belt and idlers about 2 hrs work so far.I think the hard part is ahead of me with lining up the belt and all the timing marks and water pump ect...I'll post lots of pics with details of the entire removal and replacement procedure. but I did not have to do some steps in the fsm.

I also purchased a fan idler pulley (new) a while back along with the other parts. I found out this evening that it is not the correct one for my 3vze.I needed the fan idler bracket that has holes for the hydraulic tensioner piston and holes for the bolts.The one I purchased is for the 3vze with the spring tensioner.I need to sell this one so I can get my money back on it.I will do like TNRabbit posted I'll just put some oil on the back side where the bearing is and let it soak in while.
(I will post the fan idler in the proper section later

buckz6319

I have completed my timing belt replacement..some pics may not be as clear as others so I apologize in advance but I hope you can see them OK.. i'm getting a little more shakey as I go along so sorry for that
It really was not that hard once you read all the info available on yotatech, and information you get frist hand from experienced members.I did skip some steps in the fsm because I didn't need to do them.I will say that I'm no professional mechanic but want to share my pics and notes with you. I did this replacement the way I need to by my self with all my notes.
I would appreciate any other comments that will help fellow yotatech members better understand this process of removing and replacing the timing belt
removing the radiator fluid
catching the fluid
looking at the water outlet of the #2 idler pulley
removing the water outlet and upper rad hose
removing bolts from fan schroud
it helps to have a bright flash lite to see some of the bolts that are hard to see in dark places
fan schroud removed it has 2 pieces so you can remove it without removing the radiator at this point
fan schroud removed
looking under thre radiator at the automatic transmission lines they have to be removed from the rad
catch the transmission fluid in something and you need to plug the end of the detached lines or the fluid will just keep flowing
bolts that hold the rad to the frame
two hoses that need to be moved out of the way for now
hoses removed
loosening the adjusting bolt on the back of the ps bracket and it is a pain to get to!
the front adjusting bolt loosen it so the ps belt can be removed when you need to
loosening the bottom alt adjusting bolt
loosening the top alt adjusting bolt so you can remove the belt when you need to
loosening the ac pulley bolt so you can remove the ac belt when you need to
all belts removed
fan bracket gaske
removing the ps pump adjusting bracket
bracket removed
ps bracket removed now you can see the fan idler bracket
last bolt removed from the fan idler bracket I'm removing the whole assembly which includes the fan,pulleys,fan bracket and hydraulic tensioner all at the same time
assembly removed
this is what the whols assembly removed as one
old timing belt notice the camshaft pulley timing marks are a tooth off
removing the hexbolt from the idler pulley#1
I will continue my posting in a few munites

#1 idler pulley remover note the washer on the threads sabe that you will need it for the new hydraulic tensioner

timing belt removed from crankshaft pulleys

removing the ps pulley from the harmonic balancer with a $16.00 puller it came with a assortment of bolts

Harmonic balancer removed notice the keyway notch

now looking at the #1 timing belt cover that has to be removed

removed #1 timing belt cover notice the silver timing belt guide it has holes around the edge and the cup side faces outwards

#1 timing belt crank pulley cover removed

timing belt removed and all timing marks are lined up on the camshafts pulleys and crankshaft pulley to timing mark on the oil pump body

Groove in the crankshaft pulley lined up with the raised timing line mark on the oil pump body

removing the 4 bolts that hold the #2 idler pulley beacing plate so you can have access to the 4 hold down bolts that hold the #2 idler pulley to the intake it's tricky trying to get to the bolts so use a wobbly 1/4" extension for easy access(thanks for the advice guys on the wobbly extensions better than taking the intake off to get to the bolts

backing plate removed

1/4" wobbly extension i purchased it and a 3/8" from Lowes

#2 idler pulley bolts removed and pulley with huge bearing removed as a whole unit

Old #2 idler pulley with bad bearings sounds like squeeking when I rotate it

New #2 idler pulley soooo smooth when bearings are rotated

back side of the #2 idler pulley showing the gasket material

removing the thermostat housing and my studs came out with the nuts so be careful I had to reinstall the studs back in the block for proper installation of the housing later

The thermostst housing removed and the old water pump now will be a good time ti install a new t-stat and rubber washer

the old water pump removed

The new water pump installed after cleaning the mating surfaces and remember to torque per the FSM

new t-stat and rubber washer and housing installed be careful not to over torque the nuts or the plastic housing will crack and you will have to buy another because it will leak once you put water in the system

I marked the path of the crankshaft key(red line) so when I reinstall the harmonic balancer I can line the 2 up and not worry about messing up the key

I also put a mark on the harmonic balancer the same thickness as the keyway so things will line up because when you put the two back together at some point you cant see the keyway on the balancer this helps to ensure that you stay on the right path towards the key on the shaft

New #1 idler pulley installed with washer over the hex bolt on the back side don't forget to do that

The dot on the crank shaft pulley is lined up with the CR>>>> on the new timing belt

pull new timing belt up snug and over the water pump pulley so you can put the crankshaft guide back on and the #1 timing belt cover back on that will hold the belt in place so you can start to route the belt arounr the pulleys

installed the #1 timing belt cover and the harmonic balancer and notice if you have the dot lined up with the CR>>> on the new belt & the notch on the crank shaft pulley lined up with the timing mark on the oil pump body then when you install the cover and the harmonic balancer then the notch in the balancer pulley will line up with the "0" on the #1 timing belt cover

Camshaft timing marks are lined with the marks on the rear camshaft cover

New timing belt installed and all timing marks line up on my first try without the tensioner installed yet

Installed the new hydraulic tensioner but don't pull that pin out until you install the assembly back on the motor and torque all fan idler bolts then release the pin and PRAY that nothing moves

fan assemble back on and torqued I pulled the tensioner locking pin out and all timing marks stayed on mark so no problem with belt skipping a tooth

Installing the #2 timing belt cover

All finished and ready to start up for a test...I got it done right the first time, timing is correct no water leaks and the engine runs smooth and has more pep I think? at least it feel that way.I do have a bad bearing on my ac compressor so that will have to be replace at a later date
Thanks to All who help me with this project I couldn't have done it without your help and this site "ROCKS!!!!!").... thanks yotatech!!! now on to my next project of painting the screen porch then it's back to doing my ball joints")

TNRabbit

Congrats, and GOOD JOB!!

buckz6319

TNRabbit...thanks I couldn't have done it without you "yotatech members", and the search feature
I still have a vibration at idle though and can still feel it through the front bumper, steering wheel,auto shifter it is worse when I turn on the AC compressor.I think the bearings are going out in the compressor pulley or something in there? would there be enough roughness at idle to cause the vibration that type of vibration
I did replace the ac belt pulley that is attached to the adjuster bracket last month and it did help with the vibrations some at that time
Any advice on this matter will be appreciated