thook

They're 12mm on the idler pulley/manifold.......

You'll need a 3/8's, like TN said, but use a 6" length extension wobbly and a short socket. Makes for a nice fit back there. But, really just whatever will work. There's a fuel line in the way that's a little tricky to get passed. May have to gently bend it a little. Won't hurt anything.

I found a wobbly set at Harbor Freight that included 1", 3", 6", and like 8" or 10"....don't recall offhand. They came also in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drives. And, even included 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" swivels. Relatively cheap and very handy for a lot of situations. Example....I like using wobblies on the plugs. Gives just enough play in the plug socket to get a plug started without cross threading. Much like using a piece of fuel line on the end of the plug to start, but in this case you already have the socket on and can just then tighten it down.

bugs1961

If space is really tight you can get socket head swivels from Sears. They have a short socket with a swivel built right into the end of the socket and allows you to get closer to the bolt head. I have 10, 12, and 14 mm swivel sockets.

Weezer

Could someone add a step by step of how to get the idler pulley out, including what needs to be removed? I've got my front end torn apart right now and can't figure out (or find instructions) on how to replace that pulley/bearing, thanks. edit, nevermind figured it out, remove four bolts and slide up and out section of sheet metal surrounding inlet, bolts are in behind there.

buckz6319

I would like to know where can I buy some of the SST for the crank shaft pulley in used but good condition?
OR is there another way to torque the crank pulley bolt to 181 FT-LBS without letting the crank turn(do I put the transmission in park then torque down),that may break my park prawl
.I also don't have a torque wrench that will go to that high in FT-LBS....mine only goes to 150 FT-LBS.... any ideas on how to get the other 31 lbs?

Weezer

I was able to just wedge a large screwdriver between the frame and a notch in the balancer to keep it from turning. I left it in neutral for fear of messing something up, and used my ratchet with a 4 ft piece of pipe over it as a cheater bar. My torque wrench only measures to 140ft/lbs and I topped that easily. Running like a top since yesterday.

bugs1961

Here is a quick sketch of a tool that I made to hold the crankshaft when removing or installing the crank bolt. It can also be used to hold the cam from turning when removing the bolts so the cam seals can be replaced. I bolt the tool to the crank pulley through the threaded 8mm holes in the pulley. The tool will hit the ground or the frame to prevent the crank from turning while you remove the bolt. I also bolt a 9/16" grade 8 bolt to each hole with the head of the bolt about 3/4" away from the tool with a nut on each side. Put the two bolt heads through the openings between the spokes of the cam pulleys and it will prevent the cam from turning while removing the bolt.

I bought a 4' piece of 1/4" thick by 2" wide, cut off one foot, and then drilled the holes. A 3/8" grade 8 bolt holds the two pieces together, but loose enough that I can move the two pieces to open or close the gap in the "y".

I have used this tool for about 10 years now with great success.

Bugs

buckz6319

I got my wobble extensions...6" 1/4''drive & 6" 3/8" drive...hehe

buckz6319

bugs1961.......thanks for the tool info... it looks strong and if you have used it for over 10 years now it's worth building , hell patent it and sell it but not until I build mine with your permission? of course....if it's OK to build for my self could you email me that pic again so it will be larger in size and I can read and see the written detail
Dwayne

bugs1961

You're more than welcome to make one of your own. It really works well and takes the hassle out of removing the crank and cam pulleys. I'll try to email a bigger picture but this is just a quick sketch. When I get home next Sunday I can take a photo of the actual tool and you'll have a better idea of what it looks like. I basically took the SST that is shown in the FSM as an example of what to make. They call it a camshaft holding tool. Take care,

Bugs

bugs1961

Here is a bigger picture of the holding tool.

buckz6319

bugs1961...thanks again Rich
Dwayne

TNRabbit

So.....how'd it go, Dwayne?

buckz6319

TNRabbit..........thanks for asking I haven't done the replacement yet because of bad weather here and the Mothers day thing. I'm going to do it this weekend for sure it's a Holiday weekend, and that will give me an extra day in case I mess up and have to redo the whole thing over.
I also am batteling a Sicatic nerve problem in my left leg and that makes simple problem to do much worse

buckz6319

It's me again and I know you can only beat a dead horse to death once
I would like to know(sense I'm not removing the camshaft pulleys) once I get all the timing marks aligned and start to install the timing belt, will the camshaft pulleys move (rotate) on me while I try to install the belt? thus moving the alignment mark and belt be a tooth off.
I have read so much about being a tooth off on the belt that me eyes and head hurt

If I'm correct the cam pulleys will take more effort to rotate than me just installing the belt on them I don't want them to move?

I have also read that to install the timing belt,start on the crank and work to the left (right side facing the engine) routing the belt as per the fsm and leave the slack on the right (passenger side left side facing the engine)?...then make sure that every thing is lined up then pull the locking pin from the tensioner and rotate 2 full revolutions to make sure all it lined up.
Then button up every thing and start the engine and hope for the best

Weezer

The cam pulleys did turn on me when I was putting the belt back on, and though it's probably not the preferred method, I remembered seeing where someone used a couple of visegrip wrenches, with clean rags as padding, to hold the belt in place on each cam pulley. Worked great for me.

buckz6319

Weezer......thanks for the reply....I do remember that thread or post. I think I will try to do that just to be on the safe side
is there any more tricks that you know of that will help me out?

Weezer

Well, for one, I would definately build a holder tool like bugs1961 showed. It took a while winging it. You have it right about starting the belt at the crank pulley and working it counterclockwise while pulling out the slack this worked well for me. A wire brush or two come in handy if replacing the waterpump, some tough angles in there. Oh, and next time I will write down the order I removed everything to aid in reassmbly, the books don't always cover everything. If you don't have a creeper, borrow one, your back will thank you!

TNRabbit

Dwayne: you don't have to use the timing marks on the belt; in fact, mine were off a tooth so I ignored them...

the driver side cam pulley will be VERY close to where it's supposed to be, but you'll still need cock it slightly to the right to get it in the correct tooth as I stated previously. The pax side will be on the edge of a cam lobe so you'll have to get a 17mm socket & bar to wrestle it into place while you hold the belt steady (helps to have a friend but it's not absolutely necessary).

buckz6319

Thanks... again TNRabbit for the info.....
But I have another question.....Is the belt really that tight to get around the camshaft pulleys with no tension on the belt?

I mean it looks like the belt is large enough to just slip it on and around every pulley without any problem is this correct?

OR ...is the belt kinda short and it has to be streched over and around every pulley(so you have to cock the pulleys like you state) and it just barely makes it on and the tensioner puts pressure on the belt to hold it in place after every thing is linged up?
sorry to ask so many questions

TNRabbit

If there were no TEETH of the belt, the tension would automatically fall to the tensioner, but the belt is TIGHT between the teeth. That's why it's critical to make sure you don't have any slack anywhere but where the hydraulic tensioner will pull it out. It's easy to get a tooth off between the the other two...I've seen it happen to folks many times.