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Timing chain successfully replaced

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Old 09-17-2006, 03:23 PM
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Timing chain successfully replaced

Hello to everyone,

Second post here...so hello to everyone.

My motor started rattling the marbles about a month ago and I discovered that I did not have the 1200 dollars to replace the timing chain. So I researched everything from everywhere I could think of and ordered the parts from Engine Builder; new timing chain, gears, guides (drivers side is metal backed), oil pump, water pump, and gaskets. I also purchased new hoses, belts and thermostat.

I followed the instructions from 4crawler, 4x4 wire and Haynes manual and with the assistance of my brother in law and about 15 hours of labor we completed the job. I took my time and cleaned the years of grease off the parts that I would be re-using so that was about 2 hours of the time. So all in all not bad for a first timer.

It started on the very first try and as far as I can tell there are no leaks, knock on wood.

Thanks to all of you who post your guidance and experiences as that was what inspired me to take on the challenge and save over a thousand dollars in labor.

Kevin
Old 09-17-2006, 03:43 PM
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congrats man feels good to complete a project and have it all work
Old 09-17-2006, 03:59 PM
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congrats, glad all turned out well.
Old 09-17-2006, 04:25 PM
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Dud you da man....I've got to reopen my timing cover, because the shop that did it didn't get a good seal now it leaks like a sive Did you get a good seal ie no leaks?
Old 09-17-2006, 06:25 PM
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great Job, did you remove the oil pan? I am just wondering about the labor time and if that included teh oil pan. 4x4 or ?
Old 09-17-2006, 07:28 PM
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Thanks guys! Feels real good to have it start right up and run well. Now my ears are perked up for every little noise. (my fingers are crossed)

Crackerjack: looks like a good seal so far, no leaks

trythis: Yes it is a 4x4 so we dropped the oil pan about 1/2" so we could slide the cover in under the head and not disturb the new rtv sealant we put down on the front of the pan and the bottom of the head. We put some thin wood wedges between the pan and block to keep it down, seemed to work out well. The pan bolts on the passenger side are very difficult to get to but it seems like it worked out for the best.
Old 09-17-2006, 09:12 PM
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Hmm... I was just fixin to redo the timing cover seal (leaking like an cut vein. about 5 quarts a day). First I thought the oil was coming from my oil pan, so I dropped my front diff to get to the oil pan. Replaced the gasket (used cork instead of rubber for the first time in my life... still kinda iffy about it), and turned er on, but low and behold it was the timing cover gasket that was the culprit, not my oil pan gasket...

I've already surmised that I'm going to have to drop my front differential again to get to the timing cover (and probably remove the compressor right?), but am I really going to have to drop the oil pan again just to redo the seal for the timing cover? Any help, insights, or suggestions you could give me would be GREATLY appriciated.
Old 09-18-2006, 07:31 AM
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The proper repair is to remove the pan and the head to achieve a good seal at the top and bottom of the t.c. cover. We just removed the pan bolts at the front of the pan that go into the t.c. cover and then loosened as many as we could so the pan could be dropped down about 1/2 inch in the front so the cover can slid right in place.

It would be a good idea to read the instructions on 4crawler.com and 4x4wire.com and have a manual handy. We made sure the old gasket surfaces were cleaned real good prior to installation. Except for the gasket on bottom of the head, we left that in place and put rtv sealant on the top of the cover were the two meet.

Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions and I will try and help answer them.
Old 09-18-2006, 09:42 PM
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Ah thanks, yeah did help give me a little better idea of whats gonna be involved. I'll let yall know how it goes.
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