My motor knocks after it passes 2 grand. I pulled the valve cover and adjusted the valves, when I had it off I looked down the timing chain and found cracked guides and score marks on the drivers side of the cover. I put pressure on the chain and it seemed to have a good amount of tension, not enough to smack the side of the cover at least. I've heard that if the knock is not constant it's usually a good indicator that it's crank bearings. It's a constant knock so the only other possibility could be a rod bearing.

 

its really hard to tell, your going to have to get in there to tell. Those cracked guide pieces could fall into the oil pan and block oil flow. So i would get a new timing chain, and new bearings at the very least and change both them out. Your going to have to drop the front end to get to the oil pan. I just did this on my truck, its no to hard, now tomorrow i gota do it again to put new bearings in it

 

I've done an oil pan twice before. The first time I found the rest of the guide pieces. Are you going to just unbolt the rods and replace the bearings? Will that work?

 

yes sir...that is my plan. Do the rod bearings first, and then the mains. If you search around here or on google, i think you might find some info. I also have an oil pump and waterpump coming for her. PO messed this poor thing up...drove it far to long with mostly antifreeze in the in the oil pan

 

So your going to replace those without pulling the motor. How would you do the mains.

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123...ce-not-102568/

 

are you sure its not just spark knock/pre-ignition?

obviously your t-chain is hitting the timing cover. I'd replace it ASAP.

 

yea i'm pretty sure, although, how would you check that if you don't mind me asking plus, are 22re's low tolerance. If so, it can jump time and bust up the innards.

 

Plugitin: thanks for the link

 

When mine was doing it, it sounded like marbles dropping into a tin can. I fixed it by replacing plugs, wires cap and rotor and running a can of SeaFoam in the tank.

 

Also, i've heard you can replace the chain w/o pulling the head. I'm just worried about compromising that head gasket.

 

yea thats all been taken care of. It's the chain or the barings.

 

No problem. you can check timing fairly easy...mine was so loose, and it didnt jump time.

edit-you can change it without pulling the head. I did this last week, just be careful when you take off the timing chain cover. Heres what i used...http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml (i used it for taking everything off, then kinda put it back together how i wanted)

 

thanks man. I really appreciate the help. that's just what I needed.

 

When you take that timing cover off, make sure its not gouged out bad...like mine was


Steel backed guides are your friend

 

I've had a steelbacked guide break. Sounded like timing chain slop, looking down from the top of the head you couldnt see that the guide was broke. After pulling the front cover to replace the tensioner, which we thought was culprit for the timing chain 'slap' noise.

nope.. guide cracked and seperated right above the top bolt. it was rattling between the chain and side of the head.

anyway, you can do the timing chain without pulling the head. I'd highly reccomend pulling the pan tho, you're going to get anti-freeze and debri in it, ontop of you won't get a good seal at the bottom of the cover if you dont..

and you for you, you already know theres debris in there.

if the kit with plastic guides was cheaper than the kit with metal ones, id get the plastic guides. ime

 

so my friend, what did we decide after out meeting today?

definately sounds like a rod knock to me in person it's a little too deep and solid of a sound to sound like t-chain slap to me...