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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Timing Chain Issue.....Help!

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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 03:52 PM
  #21  
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Your crank pulley could be off if the rubber has come apart on your crank pulley. If you set the notch on the crank pulley to 0 on the timing mark and pull the pulley off your keyways for the pulley should be straight up and down with the timing chain.
These pulleys are known for the outside edge of the pulley to turn after years of use and will really mess up timing settings.

Just a thought......

Get your keyway on your crank straight up, put your crank pulley back on and check marks on pulley. If marks dont line up get another pulley or take a white fingernail polish or something bright and mark the pulley all the way across in a straight line across the pulley and use it to set timing for test run.

Last edited by 87hoerunner; Feb 5, 2014 at 03:54 PM.
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 03:58 PM
  #22  
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I will check that 87hoerunner. Thanks!
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 04:17 PM
  #23  
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Not saying thats your problem but if its off it would throw off your timing and cause the problems you are explaining.

It got me one time before on a friends truck and his truck would never set the timing where it should have been. I used white fingernail polish of my wifes to mark the true 0 spot and it worked perfect. Good thing she never knew lol
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 04:19 PM
  #24  
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At this point I am willing to try anything to get this thing running properly. Cant hurt anything!
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 04:23 PM
  #25  
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That makes me think, where is the hold down bolt on the distributor? About the middle of travel? Or way one side or the other?
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 04:27 PM
  #26  
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Well right now it is to the lower part of the slot....which I dont think is right. This happened after I moved the cam gear a tooth.
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 04:39 PM
  #27  
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Ok. Because mine is off center, I believe advanced farther than it should to be timed right. But it's a rebuilt engine, and I never thought to ask if the head or deck had been shaved. I think, in a perfect world, the dist is supposed to be pretty centered in the adjustment range. I'd be suspect of the pulley/balancer being out of whack.
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 04:44 PM
  #28  
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Like i said reset your cam timing by setting both timing marks straight up, install pulley and just see what you get on the timing mark. Diagnosis is the most important thing lol
And make sure your using dowel on cam for the 12 o clock position and not the dot on the cam gear, that will throw you off.
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 04:47 PM
  #29  
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Will try and work on it tomorrow and post results. Fingers crossed! Thanks everyone for the replies. Hopefully figure this out soon.
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 04:54 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 87hoerunner
Like i said reset your cam timing by setting both timing marks straight up, install pulley and just see what you get on the timing mark. Diagnosis is the most important thing lol
And make sure your using dowel on cam for the 12 o clock position and not the dot on the cam gear, that will throw you off.
GOOD POINT!
I have seen TWO spun harmonic balancers. Both caused the problem you are having. That is a longshot and it doesn't sound to me like what is going on. You would have seen that on your old motor/HB.

I Doubt that block (being it is a 22re) has been decked too many times. It takes at least 2 cuts on the block and the head to be at its last cutting to throw off your cam/crank relationship. At least in my history of dealing with these motors. Now the 22r I have seen that happen. Mostly because they are older and get rebuilt a few times more than the 22re.
I think you somehow moved the crank while you had the chain off and didn't know it and now you are out of TCD. You button everything back up and being off TDC will cause a myriad of issues. Specifically the issue you are having.
Do what hoerunner said and let us know what happens.

Last edited by toyospearo; Feb 5, 2014 at 04:59 PM.
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Old Feb 5, 2014 | 05:38 PM
  #31  
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^what he said. I didn't complete my thought. If you reset and line up the marks at crank/cam, it'll show any deficiencies in the timing marks on the pulley lining up. Then you'll know if crank/cam were shifted on assembly. Or if pulley/dist or something else is amiss. My bad, didn't mean to add confusion to frustration. And the distributor position question was a thought that wasn't complete, either.

Last edited by combatcarl; Feb 5, 2014 at 05:39 PM.
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 05:50 PM
  #32  
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Havent had time to work on the truck since my last post. My wife ended up in the hospital and I became horribly sick. Trying to rest and get over this nasty crap. Will post back results as soon as I get time to work on this again.
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 06:56 PM
  #33  
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That's no bueno. Hope you and your wife feel better soon!
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 08:21 PM
  #34  
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Yeesh. Get better, dude, both of ya.
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 09:23 AM
  #35  
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I didn't think 22re would run a tooth off on the cam? If it idles fine and tends to run good with no load, I would say your cam and chain stuff is fine. I would make sure that all injectors are firing and that you have fuel pressure. These engine run good on 3 cylinders (I think due to the injectors firing at the same time).
Also check your EGR and hosing.
Just some thoughts...
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 11:07 AM
  #36  
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I've seen the 22re run being off a tooth. The one thing for sure is you notice right away. It doesn't sound right and timing advance is totally out of whack. Put a light on the pulley and you will usually see the notch bounce around.
I agree with Flash. After all you have done and the condition stays the same. I think you have a faulty injector or fuel pressure is funky or you have a hose on screwy.
I worked on a guys 22re after he couldn't get the thing to run right. He had just done his own head gasket job and in the process he scraped one of the injectors right at the port on a piece of metal marring the tiny hole just enough to mess with the correct pressure and flow. I had a few old injectors lying around and I swapped one in and it ran like day one.

Last edited by toyospearo; Feb 9, 2014 at 11:12 AM.
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 12:19 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Flash319
I would make sure that all injectors are firing and that you have fuel pressure. These engine run good on 3 cylinders (I think due to the injectors firing at the same time).
Also check your EGR and hosing.
Just some thoughts...

First, you DID change the fuel filter right? Second, do you have spark to all cylinders in the proper order? Next, you can hear the injectors firing so give them a listen to with a stethoscope. If they are not all firing then check the splices in the wiring harness (there are at least 3 splices that tend to fail over time) and have the injectors all refurbished.

Last edited by Buck87; Feb 9, 2014 at 12:20 PM.
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 12:41 PM
  #38  
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I hear ya on the fuel issue. I did change the fuel filter. Also wouldnt I feel a difference in the first 3 gears with a fuel issue instead of just 4-5? 1-3 gears run out normally. I still havent felt well enough to get out there and check the pulley and all that other stuff. Hopefully this week I can work on it and elimate some things and post back some results.
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 12:47 PM
  #39  
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One could probably make that argument for any power problem. I suggest that you start eliminating things systematically. Listening to the injectors is easy and free, so give it a listening.
Hope you all feel much better soon.
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 01:02 PM
  #40  
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Thanks guys! I will start with one thing at a time. Wife is finally back from the hospital and I am trying to rest. Whatever this stuff was it sure was nasty! Dont wish this on anyone!
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