mattk

Ok here is the deal and I have searched for days on this site trying to figure out whats wrong. I recently replaced the timing chain on my son's '93 pickup with the 22RE. Everything is back together and double and triple checked that everything was lined up. I can time the truck perfectly but when I drive it this is what happens. First, second and third gear run out great, when i get to fourth gear it bogs down and has no power. Fifth gear is useless. I cant get the truck over 60 mph. Would the timing chain cause this issue or do I need to start looking for something else? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I need this truck back on the road ASAP!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

My question how was the top end before the timing chain episode ???

If your timing is spot on .

Then just what are you comparing it with ??

Get all the vacuum hoses on correct??

When was the last major tune up

Mouse nest in the intake from it sitting??

If your running out of fuel when was the fuel filter changed last

Then again does it have Huge tires or stock ones.

mattk

Everything was fine before the timing chain. Only reason for the timing chain replacement is because one of the guides broke. All hoses are hooked up. I have went through and through and double checked everything. Short of tearing it apart and starting over. I just dont know where to go from here. I replaced the chain about 3 weeks ago so no nests of any kind. Tires are the same as what has been on there. 31x10.5x15. I am comparing it to the way it ran before the chain replacement. It ran great before with plenty of power. I have never changed to fuel filter since we have had it. My son has owned the truck for about 2 years. Not sure where to start. Timing is spot on.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Yes but if you have the cam timing off a tooth or two

The fact that it starts and drives means your close.

I have been away from the 4 cylinders awhile.

When adjusting the timing at the distributor are you jumping TE1 to E1 if not that could be your problem.

If your not a hard core Toyota Person you might have not known about doing that or just forgot.

Did you have the head off?? Valves adjusted correct

mattk

Did not remove the head. Yes to having the jumper in place at the diagnostic connector. Seems like the cam gear is in the right spot. Would that cause the loss of power at the top range?

mattk

Big update! So I decided to go back at tear into this thing. Since I destroyed the head gasket putting on the timing chain cover, I decided to tear it apart and remove the head. So took the head into the head shop and had it gone through. Just slight warpage of the head and everything else looked good. The shop went through and checked everything and basically made sure everything was ok. Now I just got everything put back together today and started it up. Timed out perfect and ran like a top, but wouldnt you know the truck runs the same as before. 1-3 gears runs out great and then 4-5 just no power. 60 MPH tops and pushing it to get to that. I am so frustrated with this truck and have no idea what to do except bite the bullet and take it to a shop. Any ideas before I give up on this thing? I do all my work on all my vehicles and just hate the thought of taking it in but......Any help would be appreciated.

RJR

It sure sounds like your valve timing is off. I base that on two things.
(1) That's the thing you messed with, so is the most likely candidate as being the problem.
(2) Valve timing affects low-rpm torque dramatically, and it seems like that's what you're missing. Low gears don't require all that much low-end torque from the engine, but once you get into 4th or 5th, you really notice if the low-rpm torque is missing. I think there's only about 12 teeth on the crankshaft timing gear, so one tooth represents 30 degrees of valve timing shift. That would be huge.

I've never timed the valves on a 22re, so I don't know if or what you might have missed. But, if I were you, I'd spend two or three nights reading everything I could about the subject to see if I might have gone wrong somewhere.

Inferno451

Can you post a picture of the chain with the valve cover off and the engine at TDC? We'll be able to tell you if the timing is off or not.

toyospearo

sounds like cam timing is off. Pull the valve cover off, set to TDC and look at the relationship between the TDC mark on the pulley and the cam. That dowel on the cam has to be at 12 oclock with the little dot just to the left. This all assuming you didn't bump or slightly move the crank while the chain was off.
Also re stab the dizzy Set to TDC and pull the dizzy and make sure when you re stab it you have it lined up correctly

mattk

I have pictures, but I cannot upload them. It says I have reached my quota.

toyospearo

for hell sakes

mattk

Here are the pictures. Motor is at TDC. Crank pulley notch at 0.

toyospearo

Somthin don't look right to me
If I see those pics correctly from my dark, dank little hovel and if I am still relatively sober at this early hour in the evening and your pully shows 0 at the notch-TDC-closest(#1) piston flush with the block THEN your cam timing is off. You are too far advanced by a couple of degrees or maybe more. You are off a tooth or maybe two teeth too far to the right. Reference my photos I posted. Set TDC and get that cam dowel at 12 o clock straight up with that little dot just to the left. Take off the cam bolt, pull the cam wheel off, lower it a bit and rotate it within the chain to the left one tooth then put it back on the cam and torque the bolt to 56flbs. THEN reference the FSM page regarding stabbing that dizzy.begin insertion of the dizzy with the rotor pointing up and the dizzy moutnig hole appox. at center position of the bolt hole..when fully installed the rotor will rotate to the left. Your dizzy after pushing it in at TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke should show the arm to the left looks to me like the arm should be a little further to the left than yours. Get that straighten out THEN take that thing for a spin and let us know what happens!

BTW who's timing set/kit is that?

combatcarl

Yeah, it looks like one tooth off. ^ like he said, roll the cam sprocket back (left) one tooth, without moving the chain. The rotor is pointing up too much to be at TDC.

mattk

Thanks guys! Will try this tonight after work and see what happens.

mattk

Ok I forgot to take pics before I put it back together, but here is what I did. Moved the cam over one tooth to the left and dowel at 12. Stabbed in the dizzy and it was right on the number 1 spot. The truck runs exactly the same as before. I give up!!! Here is something I noticed this time around. I put a screwdriver in the number 1 plug hole to find TDC. Rotate the crank and watch the screwdriver go up and down. So I get it to the point at which the piston is at the top and then starts to go back down. Rotate back and forth and find the dead spot(the screwdriver stops moving either way). Is this TDC? If so the notch on the pulley is not at 0. It is closer to the 5 degree mark. Could this be another issue or am I over thinking that part of it? I would have thought moving the gear over 1 tooth would have made a difference either bad or good not stay the same. Thoughts??

RJR

Sorry for your continued frustration. I can't help you much with your basic problem, but here are some thoughts on making a better measurement of where TDC is. Unfortunately, right at TDC the piston is hardly moving. In fact, with a 3.5 inch stroke engine, the piston will move a bit less than .01" for a 5 deg change in crank rotation at TDC, so it's really hard to get an exact location. What might work better is to find approximate TDC, and then rotate the engine backwards about 20 degrees so the screwdriver moves down a noticeable amount and mark it with a sharpie in line with the edge of the spark plug hole. At the same time, note exactly where the timing mark is. Now rotate the engine forward past TDC until the screwdriver moves down to that same mark. Again, note where the timing mark is. Exactly 1/2 way in between should be your actual TDC. If you have a small metal ruler that will fit into the spark plug hole it might be easier and give you even better results, since you won't have to mark it.

All that being said, I doubt 5 degrees is your problem.

mattk

Thanks for the suggestion RJR. I will double check it. Just cant figure out why everything I have changed makes no difference. Thats the strange thing to me. It runs the same no matter what I do.

toyospearo

It is really hard to get a good perspective from a computer screen. However, in my experience it looks to me like you are off a little. On the distributor and on the cam. I may be wrong. I have seen similar issues with upper end power resulting from your cam being advanced to far. So there that.
Give Todd at engine builder a call or email and see what he thinks. When I have odd stuff going on with these motors he can usually figure it out pretty quick.
Hope that helps.
Sorry for your issues. I have gone through perplexing stuff on motors. There is an answer you/we just don't have it...yet.
D

mattk

I hear ya Toyo. Its so frustrating. I have done this to 2 other 22re motors I had and did a top end on a 3.0 Runner. Put them all back together and the first start up they all ran fine with no issues. Thats why this one is making me so mad. Just cant figure it out. I will try Todd and see what he says.