Didn't want to start a new thread but couldn't find exactly what I needed so here goes. A few months ago I bought a 92 4x4 pickup 22re. Since then i adjusted the valves and discovered that the timing chain is stretched. So knowing that and also knowing that a shop wants an arm and a leg to do it I'm gonna try to tackle it myself, althought I'm by no means a mechanic it seems like something I could do myself. So here are my questions I know engnbldr is a very reputable place to buy toyota parts but I'm not familiar with this at all I was looking at the 4 piece front end kit. Was wanting to know if I buy this what else will I need such as oil pan gasget, water pump gasget, and rtv silicone. I have a ton of questions and this site has answered most of them but I guess I require a little more info than most. Basically what I want to know is if I buy the kit what else do I need I would like to get everything I need at one time, don't want to leave anything out. Thanks for all the help in advance.

 

How many miles do you have on your truck? Many chains can go over 200k mi. before replacing, until coolant is found in the oil, or bits of chain and guides show up in the oil pan. The job takes 10 hours of labor and that's why it's expensive to have a shop do it. You can use RTV for the oil pan gasket and it may be easier to remove the front diff to replace your oil pan gasket. My 22-RE has 185k mi and I've been hesitant to open it up that much and swap the chain when it runs okay in it's current state. My chain is stretched, I hear it when the truck starts and it clangs around until the motor warms up. Until I see it as an absolute necessity to swap it out or have enough time to tear the motor open, I'm holding out. A new chain and guides has been waiting to go in my engine for 6 years, it's that much of a pain.

 

That is your cue to change it now, it very likely means your driver side guide rail is now broken and every time it clangs it is clanging against the timing chain cover. With every contact it can be eating away at a certain spot that allows the mixture of oil and coolant. You do not want to wait until that happens, the cost and time of repair will increase significantly.

Something you can do right now this weekend to verify is remove the valve the cover and look down inside. It doesn't take that much time and can save you time and money.

 

Send Engnbldr an email or give them a call. Their customer service is excellent, Ted will be able to help you with figuring out whatever you need to get.

@BigWavePaul - Grego92 is right, change that thing NOW! When they start to rattle that's the sound of the chain hitting the drivers side guide. If it's the factory plastic guide it will break, then it will be hitting the timing chain cover and wear a hole in it. That's when you get the dreaded oil milkshake.

 

My motor has 225 thousand miles on it runs good but my chain too makes noise when I pulled the valve cover the guides were still intact but the chain is very loose. Only a matter of time before it goes. So when I make the call to Engnbldr do I need to get the whole kit (oil pump, water pump, timing cover and timing kit). Says its like 150 bucks that seems cheap to me from what I've read other places.
Also any info or tricks to replacing the chain and other front end stuff would be greatly appreciated I have a Haynes book but I know sometimes there are better/easier ways to do certain things again thanks for the replies.

 

Unless you need new water pump, oil pump, and cover I'd just go with the standard timing chain set. It's $50 with plastic drivers side guide or $60 with the steel drivers side guide. It comes with new chain, sprockets, tensioner, guides, and gaskets.

 

Well looks like Monday ill order the timing set hopefully it won't be too hard to change

 

Skeeter, I will bet that yours has already had the timing chain issue fixed once. Extremely unlikely that the stock guides would go 225,000 miles. This is not a difficult or expensive job, but its not one for a complete novice unless he gets some help. You may or may not need a new cover. It is not always necessary to remove the head and pan to do this job. If the oil pump was replaced previously, they run in oil... so no need for a new one.

There are a couple of links to on-line articles with the good tips. There are links to the FSM.

First problem you might encounter is loosening the bolt attaching the damper to the crankshaft. This has stymied many experienced shade-tree mechanics. Mine came loose easy. Removing the
damper from the crank really needs a puller. I did it "carefully" the shade-tree method, resulting in damaged and vibration when I first drove it after the job. I knew what it was of course, and parked it until I could order one from rockauto.

I didn't remove the head or pan. I was careful, and didn't damage the gaskets. Pieces of the old plastic chain guides are down in the pan somewhere. I don't worry. If the oil intake gets plugged , I'll see low pressure and hear a knock. Shutdown and call AAA. So far 20,000 miles + no problema....

Others will disagree...some vehemently

In any case, good luck on yours. I'll post the links if I can find them tonight

 

I disagree slightly. I would clean and check the engine for leaks before starting and I would remove the oil pan if there is any question about debris. Having the pan off is one less thing to worry about when installing the cover.

Here is a great link.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml

 

I replaced my chain today not too terrible of a job except for my crank pulley bolt was rounded off so I had a time removing it. When I replaced the chain seemed to be fine as did the guides and gears but the problem was the tensioner it would only come out about a quarter of the way. So replaced everything put it back together and everything seems good now no leaks and the motor is a lot more quiet.

I want to thank everyone on this site for all the info without it I would not have tried the repair myself.