timing chain
08-02-2007, 12:28 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
timing chain
ok i got a 79 20r with aprox 70 k on it (dunno actual miles as this was on the odometer) and the timing chain cover is apparently leaking oil and i was woundering should i just go ahead and replace the chain/guides or just replace the seals and do the chain another time? never replaced the timing chain on a toyota b4 so any advice/tips would be greatly appreciated...i searched a while and i came up with a way to do it without taking the head off or the oil pan..would this be a good idea or no? thanks
08-02-2007, 12:44 PM
#3
Contributing Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: shreveport, La
Posts: 1,391
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
LCE for the dual chain set-up, if they make one for your truck. I installed mine without removing the oil pan and the head, and I have a small leak at the head. OEM water pump, and change the belts if you have not changed them in a while. Look at you radiator (sp) and see if it needs cleaning while it is out. That is all I can think of, I am sure someone else will have some more ideas for you.
08-02-2007, 01:05 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Petersburg va.
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
First a coupla questions for you. How long ya gonna keep it and how much ya wanna spend? And where is the oil coming from? Crank seal or cover gasket?
Jim
Jim
Last edited by foot0069; 08-02-2007 at 01:06 PM.
08-02-2007, 02:57 PM
#5
Registered User
You'll read a bunch of posts that state the contrary, but you can not reliably do a timing chain job without pulling the head and oil pan...
You can cut corners and get it running like that, but you'll be back in there soon enough doing it again.
The pan has to come off to get the broken pieces of the guide out, and the head needs to come off to get a good seal on the timing cover without ruining the head gasket.
Cut corners now and do it again later, or just take the time and do it right the first time.
You can cut corners and get it running like that, but you'll be back in there soon enough doing it again.
The pan has to come off to get the broken pieces of the guide out, and the head needs to come off to get a good seal on the timing cover without ruining the head gasket.
Cut corners now and do it again later, or just take the time and do it right the first time.
08-02-2007, 06:12 PM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
well to my knowledge the guides are not broken so would i still have to pull the oil pan?? cuz i cant pull the oil pan without pulling/lift the engine so i would like to not do that again.....and i think it might be coming from the crank seal and the cover, but i will take off the head and get a new gasket sounds like a good idea didint think of it that way, also why the new water pump? if mines working fine why replace it? thanks for the help its greatly apreciated ((HAIL YOTATECH)) 
08-02-2007, 09:37 PM
#7
Registered User
You can do it without pulling the head but I'd pull the the oil pan for sure besides it probably leaks to =p
but you're best off doing the chain if your getting in there.
but you're best off doing the chain if your getting in there.
Trending Topics
08-03-2007, 01:17 AM
#8
Registered User
When you get in there you'll understand the problem better...
The timing cover has to be pressed onto some alignment dowels and you can't line them up very well with the pan and head on. Maybe I had a crappy cover or something, but mine simply wouldn't go on without ruining the pan and head gasket.
Like I said, a bunch of guys swear it can be done without pulling the pan or head but that was not the case with what I saw when I did mine. Sure I eventually got it on that way but the pan gasket ripped, the front of the head gasket crushed, and I leaked water into the oil and oil into the water. After I bought 2 more full gasket kits I figured I'd be better off just doing it right.
Leaking or not I would have had to go back in to mine though as I had bent valves I didn't know about at the time.
The timing cover has to be pressed onto some alignment dowels and you can't line them up very well with the pan and head on. Maybe I had a crappy cover or something, but mine simply wouldn't go on without ruining the pan and head gasket.
Like I said, a bunch of guys swear it can be done without pulling the pan or head but that was not the case with what I saw when I did mine. Sure I eventually got it on that way but the pan gasket ripped, the front of the head gasket crushed, and I leaked water into the oil and oil into the water. After I bought 2 more full gasket kits I figured I'd be better off just doing it right.
Leaking or not I would have had to go back in to mine though as I had bent valves I didn't know about at the time.
08-03-2007, 05:47 AM
#11
Contributing Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Monett, MO (Springfield)
Posts: 2,644
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
When you get in there you'll understand the problem better...
The timing cover has to be pressed onto some alignment dowels and you can't line them up very well with the pan and head on. Maybe I had a crappy cover or something, but mine simply wouldn't go on without ruining the pan and head gasket.
Like I said, a bunch of guys swear it can be done without pulling the pan or head but that was not the case with what I saw when I did mine. Sure I eventually got it on that way but the pan gasket ripped, the front of the head gasket crushed, and I leaked water into the oil and oil into the water. After I bought 2 more full gasket kits I figured I'd be better off just doing it right.
Leaking or not I would have had to go back in to mine though as I had bent valves I didn't know about at the time.
The timing cover has to be pressed onto some alignment dowels and you can't line them up very well with the pan and head on. Maybe I had a crappy cover or something, but mine simply wouldn't go on without ruining the pan and head gasket.
Like I said, a bunch of guys swear it can be done without pulling the pan or head but that was not the case with what I saw when I did mine. Sure I eventually got it on that way but the pan gasket ripped, the front of the head gasket crushed, and I leaked water into the oil and oil into the water. After I bought 2 more full gasket kits I figured I'd be better off just doing it right.
Leaking or not I would have had to go back in to mine though as I had bent valves I didn't know about at the time.
08-03-2007, 02:37 PM
#12
Registered User
Ok, first off, a 79 20r come stock with a dual row timing chain and metal guides. No need to pull the oil pan, you aren't going to have any broken plastic guides in there.
Timing cover leaks are pretty rare on these motors. However, leaks around the balancer are not. There is an oil pump seal that is common for going bad and it's cheap and easy to replace. If the truck has high mileage, you may have a groove in your crankshaft from the front crankshaft seal. A sleeve and seal will remedy this problem as well.
Timing cover leaks are pretty rare on these motors. However, leaks around the balancer are not. There is an oil pump seal that is common for going bad and it's cheap and easy to replace. If the truck has high mileage, you may have a groove in your crankshaft from the front crankshaft seal. A sleeve and seal will remedy this problem as well.
08-03-2007, 03:11 PM
#13
Registered User
I wonder if it was just your cover.... I've done at least 5 different ones, and never have pulled the pan or the head, and have gotten a great seal and no leaks every time. On one job, I did end up pulling the pan to fish out the guide parts, but that was only becuase I knew there were at least 2 sets of guides. Honestly, after doing it and seeing what I pulled out, I never would have done it. 90% of the pieces were so small a couple of oil changes would have flushed them out, and the other 10% was pretty much negligable, the amount of parts left never would have justified the work. In the future I dont plan on pullin the pan again, unless I need to look at the rods.
Yeah boy! That's what I'm sayin'.......
While it took you one post to say this, I tried several times without sounding like an that everyone was complicating the matter. Finally, I just gave up.
Ok, first off, a 79 20r come stock with a dual row timing chain and metal guides. No need to pull the oil pan, you aren't going to have any broken plastic guides in there.
Timing cover leaks are pretty rare on these motors. However, leaks around the balancer are not. There is an oil pump seal that is common for going bad and it's cheap and easy to replace. If the truck has high mileage, you may have a groove in your crankshaft from the front crankshaft seal. A sleeve and seal will remedy this problem as well.
Timing cover leaks are pretty rare on these motors. However, leaks around the balancer are not. There is an oil pump seal that is common for going bad and it's cheap and easy to replace. If the truck has high mileage, you may have a groove in your crankshaft from the front crankshaft seal. A sleeve and seal will remedy this problem as well.
Seriously, if nothing else is giving problems just fix the leaks.
08-03-2007, 05:04 PM
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If it's a true 70K, it's doubtful that the dual row chain would need anything at this point (but you might pull the valve cover and see if the chain seems the slightest bit loose).
Check your valve cover gasket and the half moon seals at the front and back of the head. If they have not been changed, they are probably rock hard (and cracked in the case of the valve cover gasket) and likely leak a bit.
Check your valve cover gasket and the half moon seals at the front and back of the head. If they have not been changed, they are probably rock hard (and cracked in the case of the valve cover gasket) and likely leak a bit.
08-03-2007, 07:31 PM
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ok, first off, a 79 20r come stock with a dual row timing chain and metal guides. No need to pull the oil pan, you aren't going to have any broken plastic guides in there.
Timing cover leaks are pretty rare on these motors. However, leaks around the balancer are not. There is an oil pump seal that is common for going bad and it's cheap and easy to replace. If the truck has high mileage, you may have a groove in your crankshaft from the front crankshaft seal. A sleeve and seal will remedy this problem as well.
Timing cover leaks are pretty rare on these motors. However, leaks around the balancer are not. There is an oil pump seal that is common for going bad and it's cheap and easy to replace. If the truck has high mileage, you may have a groove in your crankshaft from the front crankshaft seal. A sleeve and seal will remedy this problem as well.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
GreatLakesGuy
The Classifieds GraveYard
8
09-04-2015 09:27 AM
