ccundiff12

So about a year ago my water pump in my 1994 4runner gave way. It's my second car so i put off doing the repair until yesterday. I bought everything i needed belt, water pump, idlers, gaskets, thermostat etc. Although the truck did over heat it still ran. I drove the truck into the garage. For the repair i followed this guide:

http://www.instructables.com/id/1994...lt-Replacment/

It was pretty cut and dry. Only after putting it all back together it will not start. It tries and almost turns over but no luck. I did notice during the tear down that the belt had skipped a tooth on the drivers side cam. (but it still ran). The water pump had completely seized so the belt was pretty torn up. I was careful not to move the crank, started the job at TDC. I lined up the ticks on the belt at the top but i was unable to locate any marks at the bottom. But the belt went on and appeared to fit snugly during the reassembly. So the only thing i can think of is that my timing was off at the crank BEFORE i started the job and i have no idea how to completely reset and start over. Any suggestions here would be great because this was a long job and the thought of having to start over is killing me! Thanks.

hairbear65

Sorry dude...you really don't have a choice...place the the timing at 0 TDC...making sure the #1 cyl. is at top...then check both cam pulleys for timing.

abecedarian

And don't worry about moving the crank without the belt installed- the 3VZE is a non-interference engine and pistons should not hit valves.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

Assuming you put the timing back together correctly, it IS possible to put the dizzy back in 180 out. Remember the crank turns 2:1 to the cams, as as such the dizzy turns 1:2 to the crank. Therefore, make sure the engine is on the compression stroke at TDC then install the dizzy again.

ccundiff12

i did not remove the distributor, and cams were on the mark so i my guess is the crank is not in the right spot. is it supposed to be at 0 at the bottom because i think it was around -10 when i disassembled but i didn't check TDC i just didn't move it. like i said i did drive the thing into the garage and now i can't get it out. So the project begins again this morning. I'm gonna set everything to 0 and check for TDC. Thanks for all of the good suggestions! Although i didn't get the answer i wanted to hear i know its good advice! ALSO if i rent a timing light where is everyone running timing wise? i vaguely remember retarding it slightly.

OutlawMike

Ahhhh, there may be your issue.

When doing the timing belt, you need to make sure that the crank is at TDC, at the 0 mark. You also need to make sure that the cam sprockets are at their respective marks. As far as the crank is concerned, when the mark is on the 0, the #1 is at the top of the cylinder.

Regardless of where it started, to properly get the valvetrain "timed" to the crank, that is what you need to do. Any references to retarding or advancing the timing are in regard to the EFI system and the disributor, not the valve timing (or, indexing might be a better term) relative to the crank.

You may very well have the valves opening during last part of the compression stroke. Woosh, there goes all that pressure.

It goes way faster the second time. Good luck, you are almost there.

ccundiff12

OK so what i read in the manual was the timing set by the distributor? So to clarify i need to be at 0 TDC with both cam tick marks UP? Also i had some antifreeze in the oil... can this be caused by a completely failed water pump (bearing stopped timing slipped) or have i blown a head gasket as well? I think i know the answer to this but again i don't want to really face it.

tried4x2signN

Forget the mark on 0... You could have rotated it to... never mind, gonna stop b/f I confuse you even more!

Death is right, you prolly rotated the crank to B-TDC and so what if you didn't move the distributor..?

Step 1: Match up all the match marks.

Step 2: Remove the #1 spark plug and sick a small screw driver or dowel into the hole. If it's at TDC you will feel the piston... If not, rotate the engine until you can feel, with the screw driver, the piston come up to TDC,

Step3: Then install the dist. with the rotor pointing at #1.

9four4runner

so there is no way to be 180* on the cams right?
cus what i did was replace my HGs and everything got the crank to 0* and both cam gears to line up with the backing plate but on the TB and restabed the dizzy, new plugs, cap, rotor,wires and it wont crank? got spark, gas compression could i be worng with my marks on the cams?

9four4runner

and how do you tell if your B-TDC on the crank? no matter if you turn it back to 0* wont #1 be up at 0*? im lost i need help

betelnut

It's pretty easy. Here's how to get your belt on right, as the FSM says:

- Remove the no. 1 idler pulley, the one on the left btw. crank & cams. Don't lose the washer behind the pulley.

- Turn the crank so the mark on the pully lines up with the '0' mark on the plastic timing belt cover

- Turn each camshaft so the arrows line up with the mark on the rear timing belt cover

- Put the belt on

- Put the idler pulley back on, with washer.

- Rotate crank two full revolutions so that mark on pulley lines up with '0' mark on timing belt cover. If the marks on the camshafts no longer line up, are a tooth off, you need to fix it.

It may take a couple tries to get right. Be patient.

READ THE MANUAL. If you don't have marks on your belt, don't worry about it, just do the procedure as described, and be sure everything still lines up after turning the crank twice. You're probably starting around step 8 in the following manual.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...67timingbe.pdf

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

betelnut

And if you haven't already adjusted your distributor, don't touch it. It doesn't need to be re-timed.

9four4runner

cuz i have been dealing with this for a while trying difrent ways my me i was 180* out on the cams or 180* out on the crank but if it dont matter just as long i get the timming marks at 0 im good right?

betelnut

There's only one way to do it. Get your marks lined up. It sounds like you might've been off a few teeth, which is why it almost starts but won't.

When you get it open, but before you take off the belt, try the last step of turning the crank around twice & match up the marks; see if the cam marks line up perfectly. I'm betting they won't line up.

You should do this anyway, since you didn't do it the first time around. Really helps to read the manual.

9four4runner

lol thanks for the info im a newbe so ill do that rite now

9four4runner

ok so i did what betelnut did i find that i was off a tooth on everyting so i redid it got compression on tdc #1 i got fuel, timming, dizzy at #1 and spark and turns over strong but wont ignite now its shoting code #14 wich is IGF singal from igniter is not imput to ECM for 6 consecutive ignition (what it says in the chiltons book) and i noticed that my spark is not that strong so could it be my coil pack is going out?

9four4runner

so i swaped out the coil pack realined the marks did 4 rotations and the belt lines were alined with the marks ont the crank and cam gears so i wanted to test her jout so i fired her up and it started YES success she purred good so i put her pack together now i try to refire her up and nothing? NOOOOOO

betelnut

Punctuation really makes postings much easier to read.

From the time it successfully started to the time you 'put her back together', what were the general steps you took?

Have you checked the basics like spark? Will it start with some starter fluid?

9four4runner

sorry so i started the truck with out a top timming cover and no fan braket on the block so it was just the TB cranking then after it ran good i shut off the truck installed the fan braket and then the top timming covet then the water outlet put on the alt belt and the power steering belt now it wont start

9four4runner

not even with starting fluid, and i did not touch the timming after it started