dr1553

Hello everyone,

I bought a '91 4Runner 4x4 w/3.0 and 160K a month ago today. So far I have replaced all this....with lots of help from this site!

valve cover gaskets
removed rear cam bearing caps and end plugs and resealed them
PCV valve/grommet
spark plugs
drivers side cv shaft
put in warn hubs to avoid more torn boots
brake pads front/rear

Next to fix is.....

It has an oil leak that drips from the lower timing belt cover onto the oil pump housing and then goes everwhere, big mess. I've been shoving paper towels in between the cover and pump to contain the mess.

So I'm planning to do the timing belt, cam seals, crank seal or maybe a whole new oil pump, water pump, idler, tensioner and while I'm at it I'm considering dropping the oil pan to reseal it.

My question, should I use OEM or aftermarket parts for this job? Its such a labor intensive job that I would hate to use junk parts, especially the oil pump because if that goes.....outch.

Should I even replace the oil pump? I figure that with 160K it cant hurt. Napa and Oreilly both want around $150 for the pump. Parts Dinosaur has them for $65!!! Why are they so cheap? Its an ITM pump, is ITM junk?

Here it is...down on the bottom right...
http://www.store.partsdinosaur.com/page14.html

Parts Dinosaur also has idler, tensioner, water pump, and belt for really good prices, and that kinda scares me.

Oreilly has a timing belt kit that has a Gates belt and the idler and tensioner for $185.99 I dont know if it has the spring, doesnt say. Here it is...
http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/Produ...riptionId=3000

Do the Gates belts from oreilly have the alignment marks like the OEM belts do? If not I'm going OEM on that.

I think Oreilly can get most everything to do the job and their prices seem fair. They also have 4 different brands of cam seals...National Oil Seals, Gates, Beck/Arnley, and Fel-Pro. Any opinions on those?

Will I need the timing belt cover seals or can I reuse them?

Will I need to drop the diff if I decide to pull the oil pan? Those 6 pressed bolts on each CV flange are no fun to get back on. I'm not looking forward to that, If I have to remove those I'm thinking of putting regular bolts and nuts back in instead of the pressed ones.

Am I forgetting any parts that I will need? I going to have to try to get this done in a weekend and am hoping I dont run into anything I have to order after I get started. I want to have all the parts before I start.

From reading all the timing belt related posts I can find here I'm expecting the cam sprockets, crank bolt and pulley and the crank sprocket are going to be the most trouble. I'm scared the crank sprocket is going to be stuck, any hints if it is?

Thanks to everyone for this site so far, its been a real help!

eric-the-red

When I did my timing belt I used all dealer parts. The prices didn't work out all much more, and I didn't want to have to do anything again for a long time. Make sure you check the upper idler pulley, the one with the water outlet through it. If there is any roughness or noise in the bearing replace it, or just replace it anyway. When you put the new belt on make sure it is as tight as possible on the driver side, it's easy to get the cam off by 1 tooth if it isn't.

It sounds like that leak is the crankshaft oil seal. This is the procedure I used for the crank pulley bolt:
disconnect ignition coil or igniter, and put trans in neutral
put deep 6 point socket on bolt, with 24" breaker bar braced under passenger side frame rail
bump starter for a second or two and the bolt should come loose

You may need a puller for the harmonic balancer, depends on how long it's been on there. I reused the timing cover seals, mine were still in one piece. The seals are just to keep dirt and water out, they don't have to perfectly seal.

If you're dropping the oil pan then yes you have to remove the diff. If you unbolt the lower ball joints from the control arms then there is enough room to clear the studs on the diff flanges. There are 4 bolts underneath the ball joint, remove them, pry the control arm down and pull the spindle and shaft outwards. If you want to replce the studs with bolt it'll be a lot easier when the diff's out

dr1553

I dont have to disconect the ball joints if I pull all the studs right? I'm planning on replacing the studs with regular bolts so I need to take them out anyways.

Do the connecting rod and shock have to come out to pull the pan too or just the diff?

Did you have trouble with the crank sprocket coming off? Using the starter to break the bolt loose sounds like what I'll try if I cant get it loose with my impact. I can get a puller for the balancer no prob, I've been putting off buying one for a long time. I'll just get an autozone universal puller if that will work. My neighbor has an outer type puller that I can use for the crank sprocket if I can get it to move far enough to get it in there. I might have to pull the radiator to fit the puller in there but that doesnt look to bad.

Never seize is going on all the shafts once I get all those sprockets and pulleys off!

eric-the-red

If you're removing the studs then no you don't have to undo the ball joints, there should be enough clearance. And I'm not sure about the relay rod. The only oil pan I've done was a 22re and that came off OK. I can't remember how much room there is on a 3.0. If you can't get it out, if you lower the pan enough to get your hand in you can unbolt the oil pickup and that'll make it easier.

The crank sprocket was no problem, I just pried it off with a couple of screwdrivers. Just pad the block with some rags and put one on each side, it should move. A small puller might work but there isn't much room to get the jaws behind the pulley.

leebee

you can always file off the splines on the studs you press out and reuse them.

lee

Elvota

I got the oil pump from PartsDinasour. It works fine so far, how is that for confidence? You do have to remove the oil pan to get to it, but it seems you are prepared to do this already. My oil pump lacked the O-Ring between the pump and block, causing a delay in re-assembly. Make sure the one you buy has this O-Ring or maybe get one from the dealer before hand.

What ever pump you decide to go with, I do agree that when you have the engine that far apart it makes sense to get a new one. I have heard that the Toyota RTV for the oil pan is the best, although spendy.

You will have to take the intake plenum off to change out the upper idler pulley, so maybe get the gaskets required to put all that back together. Might be a good time to clean it, and the throttle body... and maybe adjust the TPS while all that is in your hands. I never know where to stop.

http://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/ has some good pricing for Toyota factory parts. Make sure you tell them you are calling from online. PartsDinasour is very knowledgable and offers great service as well.

Cam sprocket bolts are insane to get off. The best trick I found was taking a 10mm socket with extension and locking the cam from turning. You'll see the 10mm bolt heads on the cover when you get this far and this method will make better sense. I had my Hi-Lift handle used for full leverage and still had to really get on them.

Belt alignment marks really aren't neccesary, in my opinion. There are factory markings on all sprockets that are easy to line up. Just make sure you turn the motor a few revolutions to assure the marks stay inline. It is easy to be a tooth off and not have that show up without a couple of spins.

This site is great. I am new here, but was able to take this whole 3.0 apart and get it back together from online help, plus a manual or two. Best thing is it actually runs after I got done wrenching on it.

eric-the-red

I did mine without taking the plenum off, there was just enough room to get the bolts out.

slosurfer

Bumping an old thread.... I am getting ready to do the waterpump/ timing belt and was looking between OEM and Partsdinosaur. How has everyones luck been with partsdinosaur? From searching he seems to have a good rep. Any updates on those that have these parts from him. Thanks

bamachem

PM strap22 here (his name is Phil).

I got my TB/WP, tensioner, accessory belts, cam/crank seals, etc from him for just over $200 shipped - for a 3rd Gen - OEM stuff from a dealer with the 12-month / 12k mile Toyota warranty to boot...

slosurfer

I got a quote from Tacozilla and northridge toyota (both on the boards here) they were great prices and within a couple bucks of each other. Way cheaper than my local dealership. I didn't pm Phil because I figured he would be about the same price as the other two really good toyota deals. I am looking at about $300 shipped for WP, TB, #2 idler, tensioner, thermostat, all belts, and upper and lower radiator hoses. My local dealership was about $600. Does that toyota warranty on parts only count if it was installed by a licensed mechanic? Also, how would that work if I am in Cali and I bought the parts in Texas. I doubt I could take it to my local dealership, that dealership deserves to go to Oly's hole.

bamachem

all dealerships honor the parts warranty AFAIK

joeynational

iTrader: (1)

hey guys i'm new here,and i'm in the middle of this repair,head gasket,timing etc.Does anyone have experience with engbldr.I found all the parts very cheap on ebay,just wondering if they are even worth it.TIA

slosurfer

I have heard good things from engbldr on the boards here. After shopping around and talking to my neighbour who is a mobile mechanic and checking his prices, I am going to be getting my stuff from a variety of places. Some OEM parts (water pump, timing belt, and thermostat), some from parts dinosaur (upper and lower idlers if needed), and probably my drive belts and little stuff local, plus whatever I forget about and have to run and get. I got some NGK iridium sparkplugs from sparkplugs.com, I ordered them before noon and received them the next day.