what year toyota are you doing this on. and your timing make on 2nd gen are on tht top of the balancer. 0* is almost 12 oclock. with #1 at TDC the rotor bug should be pointing at the #1 plug wire. not sure if i helped but that my two cents. will try to think more about it. and our timing chain should have no slack in it if i recall right just put one in mine.

 

even when first installed with no oil in the tensioner, some chains are real tight to begin with. The one from ENGNBLDR is one of those. I made the mistake on putting the timing cover on before the head when I did my rebuild and that chain was a PITA to get on. I had to remove the timing cover after putting the head on just to get the tensioner to move enough to get the chain on. I would say there was hardly any play at all in the chain when first installed. I remember when I first did the chain with one of those kits from AUTOZONE, that the new chain damn near moved about half way up the teeth when first installed. (which is why when i did the rebuild I got the kit from ENGNBLDR)

 

you can't check timing from the bottom???? lmao

weeellll..i would go out and start it up and check it....but my damn battery is dead ( i had the Idle cut solenoid hooked directly to power 100% of the time..forgot to undo the wires..lmao)..

omfg i do not wanna have to do the timing chain again...i'll try and have a look see as to whats goin on down in there..

 

everything is lined up..when at TDC the rotor is pointing to the #1 spot..and the mark on the cam is just slightly to the left (when looking at the motor from the front of the truck) so it's right as well..

 

you can if the timing is that far off. but I doubt the engine would even run 90-180 degrees off time though.


Just a thought, you sure the plug wires are right and #1 isnt in #2 and you think your on #1 wire when its really hooked up to #2 etc?

 

plug wires are right..jeez you guys im not a newbie...im failry comfortable with my motor lmoa..i know her inside and out..but this is a whole new animal lmao

 

To make things easier to see, I used white out on the mark on the pulley. This made the mark very bright and easy to see.

 

One thing i would check is you balancer, you could have sheared the key that holds it in place ,which is very unlikely, or, you could have spun the outer ring on the balancer,which is unlikely also, but after reading this thread I hope it helps. not sure if a yota can do that but a chevy can

 

Hey, just trying to help out, we've tried everything else that makes sense haha.

 

I've also heard of the 22re crank pulley fail where the rubber part rips away from the metal, something else to look into.

 

lol it's all good dude!..i appreciate the effort a lot!..lol..still needa figure it out though..it's gonna freeze over here pretty soon and i need 4wd LOL

 

some wise person said once

It'll run like it is haha.

 

yea i know it'll run just fine...i just don't wanna be runnin through a tank of gas in a day LMAO!..if it would just consistantly idle crappy..i'd drive it...but it doesnt..sometimes it does..sometimes it dont LOL

 

so with a new/newer chain ur cam mark is supposed to be slightly left of center? mines kinda right......lol

 

yep..the little dot on the cam sprocket should be slightly left..about 11:45 or so..

i was told that by Ted at engnbldr, if yours is right..ya miighhttt wanna fix it lol..idk what it'd do though LMAO could be better? could be worse?

 

If I remember right its the pin for the spacer/fuel pump eccentric that should be straight up and down and not the dot on the sprocket. the dot is only used for placing the colored links on.

 

yep! the dowel pin (or whatever you wanna call it lol) should be at 12:00 and the dot on the sprocket should be at about 11:45

ok..wish me luck guys!!! i'm gonna fire it up..and see what happens *fingers crossed* even though i didnt do much to it? lol..i still needa get the gasket for the idle cut solenoid

 

so i set the timing at 8*

and it runs perfect..as long as my hand is partially covering the passenger side barrel

im gonna throw a new O-ring onto the idle cut solenoid (a nice and fat one LOL)

and if i look down the barrel...i can see fuel dripping from the venturi..i figured it would be kinda spraying from there..not dripping...

there is an o-ring at one end of both venturis...one was perfectly fine (but later broke from being dry and old) and the other was already broke..i replaced them..but if the o-rings i put in aren't for gas (didnt check....) wouldn't they swell up a bit? therefore slightly blocking the flow of fuel?

i hope somebody can follow me on this LOL

 

so how did you manage to find the timing mark?

you still got hair on your head or did that fan take some off?

you sure that's not a vacuum leak? or is that why you wanna replace that o-ring?

i would think it might be a while for you to see a problem with the o-rings if they weren't meant for fuel. I doubt they would block off any fuel flow, just squeeze out of their seats a bit. I don't even think they would swell more than half their thickness if that.

 

i got some white spray paint and threw it on the timing mark..turns out i just couldn't see the mark LOL

welll....if i spray some carb cleaner around the fuel cut solenoid...it idles up...so i know there is a vacuum leak there LOL

and the o-rings i put onto the venturis were already fairly fat LOL..i think i'll get a few extra o-rings from the parts store just in case those are blocking fuel flow