Can someone tell me the length of these bolts. I snapped both sides and will have to drill them out. I don't want to drill too deep and I will need to buy new ones.

Thanks

 

oh man, never seen one snap off in an aluminum housing before! how you manage that? I would just drill about 1/2" at most down allowing for a few threads to go into the intake.

 

They didn't budge, even after soaking them with penetrating oil. I'm guessing some sort of lock tight are on them, but won't know until I drill. If they are only 1/2", not a problem. Will a few threads hold the housing on firmly enough without leaking from pressure?

Thanks for replying. I'm stuck until I know what's up.

 

bad luck.

I snaped one of mine, then drilled a hole and used a bolt extractor to remove it. Only to break off the extractor in the bolt. (sucks to drill through an extractor).

I had to drill everything out then retap the threads, i went down about an inch.

 

Yep. I broke two extractors, as well. I haven't had too much time to work on it, but i'm still having no luck. Nobody believes me when I say they are "welded" in place. Steel bolt and aluminum intake, shouldn't be an issue...whatever.

 

Must be a 22RE.

On the 3VZE they're studs into the iron block.

 

Don't know the length but here is the part number: 9011608270 (3vZE)

 

The ones I saved from mine measure 19mm 'working length', from the underside of the captured washer to the threaded end of the bolt.

 

Actually, steel bolts into an aluminum block corrode quite easily. The dissimilar metals cause electrolysis and corrode together. This was a concern on the Acura NSX. They used specially coated bolts to resist this action.

 

Simple fix drill them and Helicoil or you thread repair of choice.

I don`t mess around I have done this on quite a few 22rec engines thread is M8x1.25 this is a common size and will not go to waste

i also use copper never seize on all bolts going into Aluminum if I might have to take them apart again

 

This happened to me years ago and I needed my truck ASAP. I found a small numbered machine screw about 1.5" -2" long and appropriate tap, drilled a pilot hole into broken bolt and tapped the hole. I used washers w/ the screw since the head of the screw was smaller than the hole of the thermostat housing. This quick fix has worked on my 89 22re for over 15 years and 350k miles.

 

This happened to me once (actually its happening right now), and I just remembered the long time family tradition of cussing, and screaming, and yelling, and throwing tools around the garageshopbuildingofficeshed until they had bleeding knuckles, and red faces, and it was a job well done all by itself somehow. I've never perfected this art, so I've never chosen to actually use this method of negotiation that has been passed down to me from my father, and his father before him, and his before him, and so on. So, I knew it was a long shot especially since broken bolts are considered "dead bolts" until you try to grab one, and then they'll show you who's boss, but I've yelled, and I've screamed, and Ive cussed, and I've threwn, and thrown the tools around the garageshopbuildingoffice, and I'll be a special kind of danged (gosh danged that is) if my kncukles arent bloody to perfection, and that mf;ing bolt didnt just untwist itself and hop out ready to squabble!!!... Long story short, all you gotta do apparently is simply talk a bunch of hard core ish about the broken bolts ratchet ass momma, and tell it that its (the bolt's) dead beat/dead bolt ass daddy was only looking for a nut when he found her just to screw into her head once and leave them broken and washed up with only the lube (pb blaster) stain running down her head......PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Sucky. I'm pulling mine out today. Assuming I don't break them coming out (truck does has some typical midwest rust underneath), I can tell you how long they are. If I do break one, I'll drill it out and let you know which tools I used and how.

 

This a great problem to avoid if you can. I have found there are a couple of different rubber thermostat gaskets available for the 22R. One is a thin one and the other is thicker. If you use the thin one, there is a temptation to over torque the bolts to get a good seal. If you use the thicker rubber gasket and Hylomar you can get a good seal by lightly torquing the bolts. I'm using studs on mine and accessing the thermostat is a breeze. This can be helpful because when I refill the radiator, I pull the stat out and fill the hole with coolant. This helps avoid trapping air in the system. As for breaking loose those frozen bolts, lightly tap the head of the bolt over and over with a hammer after using penetrant, let sit for 24 hours repeat process, might be helpful. You may need to do this several times.