Is there an easy way to pull the motor??
#1
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Is there an easy way to pull the motor??
I am having to pull the motor on my 95 4runner to have the crank replaced. I have almost everything unbolted,...except...the exhaust mainfolds. Is there a better way to pull the exhaust manifolds and the exhaust pipe crossover??? I have the nuts removed on the manifold, but I am having a hard time getting to the three nuts on the exhaust flanges. HELP???
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You could leave them ON the motor when you pull it out. Just unbolt the pipe (3 bolts and nuts) that goes to the cat from the driver's side manifold and pull the whole thing out.
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Exactly what I did. It was easy to get the manifolds and the crossover off on the engine stand.
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Damn good idea. I will try and do just that tonight. I should have my crank in tomorrow, so I can start re-assembling it this week. Thanks for the idea!!!
#5
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Soak them with PB Blaster or some other type of rust busting lube. The longer you let 'em soak, the better.
If you don't you run the risk of twisting the heads off the studs. Been there, done that. I cut mine out with my 4" angle grinder, but then again, I was replacing the whole exhaust system, anyhow.
If you don't you run the risk of twisting the heads off the studs. Been there, done that. I cut mine out with my 4" angle grinder, but then again, I was replacing the whole exhaust system, anyhow.
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I was able to pull the motor last night after unbolting the down tube. Thanks for the idea. I still needed a cheater bar to break them loose, but it is a done deal now. I have to buy a new crank, as the old one is not salvageable. The number 6 journal is worn past .75 mm. So, instead of $125 for the new crank, I will have to pay the core charge of $200, plus the $125.
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I haven't had time to take apart my crank and rods yet, but I have lots of play in the bearing between the crank and the number 2 rod. Hope it works out for you.
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I have the motor back together and I will be putting it in tonight or tomorrow. Not really looking forward to it, but it needs to be done. The crank is a rebuild, machined to .25mm/.010 in over stock. I had my old one sent back for a core, but I think it is past .030 for a rebuildable core. So, I will be stuck paying for the core charge, as well as the crank itself.
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