kmat123

I have been having the dreaded 22RE surging idle problem intermittently over the last several years, which became constant about a month ago. Otherwise my truck has been running great, but this fluctuating idle was really bothering me, and made the truck no longer fun to drive. Through research on Yotatech I found a few others who had been having the same problem as I was and had localized it to their idle air control valve (IAC), on the bottom of the TB. I had replaced the thermostat, burped the cooling system, cleaned my TB, adjusted my TPS, and checked nearly every vacuum hose for leaks, but still had the persistent surging idle. This afternoon I removed the intake hose from the TB and used 3 layers of duct tape to cover the port from the TB to the IAC. Fired it up and my problem was resolved. Nice smooth idle at 750 rpms! I can't tell you how happy I am to have this problem fixed. Now my question is.....is there any damage I can do to the truck by "bypassing" the IAC? I heard that this part is about $250 from the dealer, but does anyone have another source that might have them for cheaper? Thanks again guys....this is just another example of why YotaTech ROCKS

joshuapc

yup thanks everyone! ROCK ON YOTATECH!!!

thook

Congratulations on fixing your problem. I hate funky idling myself.

Now, why do you want to bypass the IAC? You said it was idling fine.

anotherjeff

It would be helpful if you plugged some info into your profile. Your location is important for locating used parts.

kmat123

Yeah, it is idling well with duct tape covering the port in the TB that leads to the IAC (aka "bypassing")

Profile and signature updated!

dcg9381

No, the IAC is designed to help at "cold" start. You'll have a low idle at cold start, that's all... Just don't get duct tape in the motor... :-)

I'd buy a few used TBs - they're cheap, find an IAC that works. You could try disassembling and cleaning the one you've got.

anotherjeff

When the fitting broke off of my IAC, I snagged another from Pick-n-Pull. I forget what I paid, but it was cheap-cheap compared to Kragen's $200 IAC.

I believe there are a couple of more, ripe to be picked. I'll be visiting there tomorrow, and I'll verify that. If you still need it, I could make it happen. Your truck is standard shift, right? Are you still in need of a exhaust downpipe, as well?

ovrrdrive

I just cut the brake lead indicator that goes to the ECM and it also fixed the problem. I realize that I just bypassed whatever the root cause is, but cutting a wire is free versus whatever the real problem would have cost me.

It was really that easy and with a manual transmission there was no risk at all to cutting the brake lead.

kmat123

Hey Jeff, if you saw a IAC at the junkyard and wouldn't mind pulling it and shipping it up north I would be extremely grateful and happy to compensate you for your trouble. I stopped by the local u-pull it here and they had two 22re pickups, both of which had already had their TBs stripped off. I already ended up replacing my downpipe with a set of LCE headers. This is just another example of what makes this site so great!