telescoping cv axle
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telescoping cv axle
Ok im trying to find out what all the P.O has done to my truck. I recently found out he put a old style rancho lift with telescoping cv axles. I just want to see if i can find out who makes them so that i can get another or rebuild kit for one because one is bad. It says spicer on the axle but thats it i cant find any other numbers or letters. Here is a pic if someone can help me out.
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wow i cant say ive ever seen an aftermarket CV like that, its using a U-joint with a yoke on it instead of a tripod CV like normal...
well spicer=dana so you might contact dana and see if they are still making those units for Toyota IFS. I dont see why you couldnt just take those CV's out though and replace them with stock ones again, maybe lower the diff. a little bit while your at it.
well spicer=dana so you might contact dana and see if they are still making those units for Toyota IFS. I dont see why you couldnt just take those CV's out though and replace them with stock ones again, maybe lower the diff. a little bit while your at it.
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The only reason i want to replace these or bebuilt the one is becuase they allow alot of travel and are beefier than all hell. I went through two origanal cv's on driver side after removing damaged spicer. I really want to fix the one that is out and replace it.
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i havent either.. thats whats boggling my mind. They are bar far the beefiest son of guns ive seen and them being telescopic lets them travel far.. i just dont know the name of them..lol
#12
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ah now i see the pics
I bet a driveline shop could make that right half for you.. you said its a slip yoke (telescoping) so it should just slide off right? im assuming its on splines.
have to have a driveline shop cut that spindle side off of a new axle and mate it to the ujoint side. probably not cheap...
I bet a driveline shop could make that right half for you.. you said its a slip yoke (telescoping) so it should just slide off right? im assuming its on splines.
have to have a driveline shop cut that spindle side off of a new axle and mate it to the ujoint side. probably not cheap...
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well i already have a stock one on drivers side as of now. I might take it off and have a driveline shop see what they can do. Is the custom one worth the money or should i keep stock?
#18
I'm positive that that's a custom part from a guy who's not an engineer, let me explain:
First, beefy? well, not really, the outers look stock. The outers CV is designed to be the weakest joint in the axle for safety purposes. If you were to break the inner CV without manual hubs, you couldn't drive the truck any faster than jogging speed or else the broken shaft would be whipping about and would damage something (probably the tie rods or shock). If the outers break, you put the truck in 2wd and the axle doesn't spin, you can drive home safe. Because of this, the axle is really not any stronger than stock.
Secondly, the U joint needs a second U joint where the the outer CV is to cancel out the accel/decel that a a U joint produces. See the animation here and the explanation here both courtesy of 4Crawler. If the CVs are parallel to the ground (U joint opperating at zero degrees), there won't be any eccentric rotation of the U joint. If they are at a normal angle ~ maybe 15*, you'll get noticeable vibrations in 4x4 at any sort of speed.
Thirdly, even if that were stronger, you ought not to beef up a CV because then you put the front diff at risk. The diff is going to cost 2-5x more than a CV used.
Go back to stock, it will be easier, cheaper and work just as well.
First, beefy? well, not really, the outers look stock. The outers CV is designed to be the weakest joint in the axle for safety purposes. If you were to break the inner CV without manual hubs, you couldn't drive the truck any faster than jogging speed or else the broken shaft would be whipping about and would damage something (probably the tie rods or shock). If the outers break, you put the truck in 2wd and the axle doesn't spin, you can drive home safe. Because of this, the axle is really not any stronger than stock.
Secondly, the U joint needs a second U joint where the the outer CV is to cancel out the accel/decel that a a U joint produces. See the animation here and the explanation here both courtesy of 4Crawler. If the CVs are parallel to the ground (U joint opperating at zero degrees), there won't be any eccentric rotation of the U joint. If they are at a normal angle ~ maybe 15*, you'll get noticeable vibrations in 4x4 at any sort of speed.
Thirdly, even if that were stronger, you ought not to beef up a CV because then you put the front diff at risk. The diff is going to cost 2-5x more than a CV used.
Go back to stock, it will be easier, cheaper and work just as well.
Last edited by Matt16; 12-08-2008 at 12:00 PM.