Taurus fan Install writeup 3.0 V6
#61
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hey Los Gatos?, actually, an engine itself will run better the warmer it is right up to the point where detonation occurs, higher temps allow for more complete combustion. You are thinking about intake air temps, which work the opposite way, the cooler the better due to the denser more oxygen rich intake air charge.
-Will
-Will
#64
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alternator upgrade?
Anyone have any problems on the Runners with the alternator??
I've read on other boards and installs that Jeeps and mustangs have to do an alternator upgrade when you install this fan. Is this an issue for us??
I picked my almost new fan at theyard this weekend for $15!!!
mike
I've read on other boards and installs that Jeeps and mustangs have to do an alternator upgrade when you install this fan. Is this an issue for us??
I picked my almost new fan at theyard this weekend for $15!!!
mike
#65
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Originally Posted by photomike72
Anyone have any problems on the Runners with the alternator??
I've read on other boards and installs that Jeeps and mustangs have to do an alternator upgrade when you install this fan. Is this an issue for us??
I picked my almost new fan at theyard this weekend for $15!!!
mike
I've read on other boards and installs that Jeeps and mustangs have to do an alternator upgrade when you install this fan. Is this an issue for us??
I picked my almost new fan at theyard this weekend for $15!!!
mike
#66
Originally Posted by Robinhood150
The only problem I see with this is that the hot water fresh from the engine is piped in at the top of the radiator. Ideally, you would want the sensor to know how hot the engine is, not how hot the water is after it's been cooled by the radiator.
Isn't the fan just there to help draw air through the radiator to help it to cool better?
So if the above is true, wouldn't putting the probe in the lower hose give you a reading of how effective your cooling system is, and would only turn the electric fan on when neccessary?
Because the way I figure, is that you're only helping when the fan is off... so having it run needlessly is not good. However, obviously, when the fan needs to run, it needs to run.
Could someone clarify? thanks.
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Ok, so I picked up my 3.8L 2-Speed fan (and a roll bar!!!) a week ago. I have a new GDI 3-Core Radiator and the fan mounted in the truck. My issue is wiring.
Here is an example of what I plan on doing. Please let me know if there are any issues.
Is a 40amp relay enough to handle hi and low settings? Sounds like 10ga is also the norm for wiring.
I will add a switch on the 86 of the LO Relay so I can kill the fan for water and such.
Has anyone used the Flex-A-Lite adjustable fan controller? I think I'm going to spend the money and get it unless people have had bad luck with it.
EDIT: Bah, some how I missed the step about removing some plastic around the edge. I'm not clearing the power steering belt.
Thanks!
Steve
Here is an example of what I plan on doing. Please let me know if there are any issues.
Is a 40amp relay enough to handle hi and low settings? Sounds like 10ga is also the norm for wiring.
I will add a switch on the 86 of the LO Relay so I can kill the fan for water and such.
Has anyone used the Flex-A-Lite adjustable fan controller? I think I'm going to spend the money and get it unless people have had bad luck with it.
EDIT: Bah, some how I missed the step about removing some plastic around the edge. I'm not clearing the power steering belt.
Thanks!
Steve
Last edited by JoKEpLaYeR; 07-11-2004 at 10:08 PM.
#70
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Ok, im looking into doing this as well, because the truck's temps linger... It runs normal temp, but then i shut it off for 15 minutes or so, turn it back on and it is about 3/4... But after about 30 seconds of the engine running its back to normal...
Jokeplayer... I have a question about your schematic... Ok the way that you have it setup is so that when the HI relay is in the "off" position (power flows through 30, and into 87a) it allows power to run to 30 of the Low relay. Now, the switch that turns the Low relay on or off is controlled by the A/C clutch switch (so that it kicks it to HI when the A/C is turned on) and the temperature switch (so that if the engine heats up, it kicks to HI). Now, on the HI relay, you have the switch as a dash mount switch. I may be wrong, but it seems to me, when the Low relay is switched (whether it be by turning A/C on, or the engine heating up) it will turn off. BUT... What will tell the HI relay to turn on? Dont you need to tie the switching into the HI relay so that when the Low relay is turned off, it turns the HI relay on?
Haha my brain is toasting trying to map the schematic in my head
Jokeplayer... I have a question about your schematic... Ok the way that you have it setup is so that when the HI relay is in the "off" position (power flows through 30, and into 87a) it allows power to run to 30 of the Low relay. Now, the switch that turns the Low relay on or off is controlled by the A/C clutch switch (so that it kicks it to HI when the A/C is turned on) and the temperature switch (so that if the engine heats up, it kicks to HI). Now, on the HI relay, you have the switch as a dash mount switch. I may be wrong, but it seems to me, when the Low relay is switched (whether it be by turning A/C on, or the engine heating up) it will turn off. BUT... What will tell the HI relay to turn on? Dont you need to tie the switching into the HI relay so that when the Low relay is turned off, it turns the HI relay on?
Haha my brain is toasting trying to map the schematic in my head
Last edited by MorphiasX; 04-30-2005 at 11:33 PM.
#71
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BUMP... Anybody have anything to say on the wiring circuit?
934rnr... How did you get the clearance for the fan motor? Did you grind the studs down, or pull the studs out and put bolts in place? Do the studs thread in, therefore you can just thread the bolts in?
934rnr... How did you get the clearance for the fan motor? Did you grind the studs down, or pull the studs out and put bolts in place? Do the studs thread in, therefore you can just thread the bolts in?
Last edited by MorphiasX; 05-01-2005 at 09:07 PM.
#72
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Dude - you bumped a 7 month old thread...and bumped it again after only after waiting less than 24 hours...on a weekend no less...relax give it a little more time. If someone here knows the answer or thinks they can help I am sure they will post something for you but you gotta be patient
Last edited by ROMAD; 05-01-2005 at 09:05 PM.
#73
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Originally Posted by ROMAD
Dude - you bumped a 7 month old thread...and bumped it again after only after waiting less than 24 hours...on a weekend no less...relax give it a little more time. If someone here knows the answer or thinks they can help I am sure they will post something for you but you gotta be patient
EDIT:
Also, when do you guys have the fan running? Shouldnt it be set up to run on low speed whenever the engine is running (since it is the only cooling fan) but then kick to High when needed (when the engine heats up too high, or A/C is on)... And to stay on low speed when the engine is off until it cools to a set temp? Is this correct?
OR... Is it so that it comes on within a temp range, whether it be when the engine is running or off, and with no matter of how long the engine has been running... and only to kick to high if the A/C is on...
Last edited by MorphiasX; 05-01-2005 at 11:21 PM.
#74
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I'm using the adjustable fan controller and it seems to be fine. Rome didn't have good luck with his though.
The schematic isn't showing up for me so I can't comment on that. Might be my firewall at work.
Sounds like you're treating the symptom and not the cause. It would be better if you can find the cause of the problem.
My fan is set up to turn on when the fan controller tells the fan the engine is too hot. It goes to the low setting. I've never had to use the high setting yet. If you have the fan hooked up to a constant on power source then a normal fan controller will tell the fan to turn on regardless of whether your engine is on. While this may seem good, the fan will turn on and off about 10 times over the course of an hour or two until the engine is cool. On hot days this may take longer. Not only is it annoying but it will drain your battery pretty quick too. That's why mine is hooked up to the ignition. There are other fan controllers available that will keep the fan running for 30 seconds after you shut off the engine, but they're probably pretty expensive.
The schematic isn't showing up for me so I can't comment on that. Might be my firewall at work.
Originally Posted by MorphiasX
Ok, im looking into doing this as well, because the truck's temps linger... It runs normal temp, but then i shut it off for 15 minutes or so, turn it back on and it is about 3/4... But after about 30 seconds of the engine running its back to normal..
My fan is set up to turn on when the fan controller tells the fan the engine is too hot. It goes to the low setting. I've never had to use the high setting yet. If you have the fan hooked up to a constant on power source then a normal fan controller will tell the fan to turn on regardless of whether your engine is on. While this may seem good, the fan will turn on and off about 10 times over the course of an hour or two until the engine is cool. On hot days this may take longer. Not only is it annoying but it will drain your battery pretty quick too. That's why mine is hooked up to the ignition. There are other fan controllers available that will keep the fan running for 30 seconds after you shut off the engine, but they're probably pretty expensive.
#75
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OK after thinking about it some... My question about Jokeplayers schematic is resolved... I was thinking that it was going to be set up so that it would kick to high if it got to a certain temp for some reason... But it is set up so that it runs on low whenever it needs to in order to keep the engine at the set temp, but goes to high when the A/C is turned on. There also would be a switch on the dash to turn it on manually, or turn it off manually...
And Robinhood, it does not happen all the time, just sometimes... But its approaching summer, and i will be getting my A/C fixed within the next few weeks, so i want to make sure i have an efficient cooling setup so that i dont have to worry about heating issues... I really do not know why the temperatures linger, but i have talked to some people about it and they said it is normal, and that the electric fan would help because it keeps air blowing to cool it off after the engine is off.
And also, what are everybodys thoughts on how to have the fan wired up, whether it be to the ignition as Robinhood, or to full time power... If it is to the ignition, then whats the point because it would not run after the engine is off... If to full time power, then theres battery draining issues, and as for it running all the time and being annoying, you could always turn it off on the dash with the switch... Im going to put a 3 position switch, On, Off, and Automatic (full time power)...
And Robinhood, it does not happen all the time, just sometimes... But its approaching summer, and i will be getting my A/C fixed within the next few weeks, so i want to make sure i have an efficient cooling setup so that i dont have to worry about heating issues... I really do not know why the temperatures linger, but i have talked to some people about it and they said it is normal, and that the electric fan would help because it keeps air blowing to cool it off after the engine is off.
And also, what are everybodys thoughts on how to have the fan wired up, whether it be to the ignition as Robinhood, or to full time power... If it is to the ignition, then whats the point because it would not run after the engine is off... If to full time power, then theres battery draining issues, and as for it running all the time and being annoying, you could always turn it off on the dash with the switch... Im going to put a 3 position switch, On, Off, and Automatic (full time power)...
#76
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My stock temp gauge it never moves from it's normal place, even after shutting it off. On the other hand, if it's normal, then why try to fix it (I don't think it's normal)?
#78
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Where do you get the secondary relay is something like that common or a specialty electronic part. I'm thinking that I wanna run the fan on the high speed so I might want more like 100amps.
#79
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I am running an 85A constant duty solenoid (looks like an old Ford starter solenoid) that I got from West Marine for like $39. Well worth it.