shot in the dark here what about the throttle position sensor not working.
I read this can cause a no start.

 

ok so no to both the previous ideas.

What about the injector conectors? a couple of the clips that hold them on broke on a few of them but they still connected fine.
could this cause the injectors not to recive the signal to spray fuel?

 

Where the block was wet, was it coolant or fuel?

Also, with the distributor, if the engine is at TDC, the rotor will be pointing at about 11:00. It really is too bad that there is no way other than to pull the valve cover, timing cover, or stick a screwdriver into the #1 spark plug hole to know that you are at TDC with this engine.

 

im thinking it may have been a bit of water from what its rained a bit and i had the hood off and leaked from the rear timming cover in front of the intake manifold.

about the timinig are you saying the when the cranck shaft pully is set at TDC that its not nesasearly right?
please a little more detail on what your saying.

Thanks for all the ideas everyone the help is greatly appriciated.
man if its just timming ill be so happy!!!
thats an easy fix.

 

sorry for poor editing....

 

Sorry, I was saying that if the crank and cams are at TDC, then the distributor rotor (when you take the cap off) will be pointing at 11:00. That corresponds with the #1 cylinder on the dizzy cap.

I only mention it because it is a little hard to line the distributor up properly on the first try with these engines. The FSM does help. I downloaded the whole thing and put it on my smartphone.

 

im thinking its electrical. running error codes today.

 

hey rean engine codes......... got 10 flashes cant seem to find any code with 10 flashes.
anyone know what this means?

 

sorry, did research and im running 2 codes. 41: throtle position sensore and because of my consecutive starting im running code 14: igniton signal.
im gonna pick up new batteries for my tester and test the signal to the the throtle position sensore......... i hope its the sensor and not a short!

keep u posted.
thanks for all the help!

 

hey, so iv tested the TPS its fine, tested the conector and im not reciving a signal from the VTA so i pull the harness apart and no shorts, tested at the ecu and nothing. im wondering if my ecu is no good......?

 

VTA is an input at the computer. Verify the wire is good with your meter by unplugging both ends and checking for conductivity.

 

do you mean disconect the TPS as well as the ECU then turn ignition to ON position and test?

I re-tested again just befor checking yotatech. The way I tested was by leaving the TPS conected as well as the ECU , turned ignition to ON and tested where the wires go in the conectors.
I used my 94 Pickup as cross refrence by testing everything on it as well. Everything shows up the same between the 2 vehicle (more or less) execpt for the VTA. On my 94 pickup (thats running fine) the resistance was: 3.2 V when ignitions set to ON and on the 4Runner was: .4V with the ignition set to on.

Now in the FSM it say your VTA resistance should be: .3 - .8 with Throttle valve fully closed(Throttle opener must be cancelled first). WTF does that mean? How do you cancel it? is this the issue?

By the way i bought a new TPS just to be safe.

 

You've gone and mixed up your terms. Resistance is measured in Ohms not Volts

The book says 0.3-0.8 VOLTS ignition on throttle closed. and 3.2-4.9 VOLTS ignition on throttle open.

The throttle opener is shown in this pic at the top(rear) side of the throttle body (Ignore the circle it's just a random picture) Actually don't ignore it the throttle opener is the round thing just to the right of it..

To disable it you have to apply vacuum to the vacuum line, or squeeze it closed. What it does is crack the throttle plate open when the engine isn't running so it starts easier (w/o having to touch the pedal), once the engine starts up it closes the throttle plate.

Ok you said the TPS tested fine but you aren't getting a signal to the computer. Then you said "tested at the ecu and nothing". Now in the next post it's at 0.4, So you either have a busted wire or you just had a loose connector.

0.4v at the ecu with the throttle closed is w/in spec. So long as it's constant and doesn't cut out due to a loose connector or internal break in the wire.

The next step is to confirm it goes up to the higher voltage 3.2-4.9 volts with the throttle open. After that you need to monitor the voltage while moving the throttle slowly from closed to open, you are looking for spots where the voltage goes to zero which indicates the TPS has wore the conductive strip off and the TPS is needing replaced.

Once you've verified the VTA signal you need to check the second part of the code.
"VTA voltage exceeds 1.45v and IDL detected". Which is a great big pain in the rump (kinda). You'll need to connect the volt meter to the VTA and a test lamp to IDL&Ground. Move the throttle to 1.45v and the test lamp shouldn't light up. If it lights up there is gunk in the sensor and it needs repaired or replaced. You're best bet then is to replace it with your spare/new one and go thru the adjustment procedures.

 

Hey, ya sorry about the mix up in terms. this is the first time iv delt with electrical issues and ive been cramming info in all last week and this week. Guess things are getting jumbled together in my head.......

Anyways earlyer when i was saying "the TPS tested fine but im not getting a signal to the computer. Then said "tested at the ecu and nothing". I was still trying to understand this new aspect of electrical and was not doing it right. Please disregard those earlyer statments.

The VTA is sitting at: .4 V at the ecu, it is also sitting at: .4 V at the TPS connector.
So that rules out a sort or a break in the line. Also I pulled the harness apart and traced the VTA wire from the TPS connector to the ECU. No knicks, breaks or cracks and the wire is in good condition.
Ive already installed the new TPS and tryed to start it (no start), but I never adjusted it. I found the information on proper adjustment afterwords. Tomorrow morning I will adjust the TPS PROPERLY and try and start it again. Correct me if im wrong, but since Ive already changed the TPS to a brand new one I shouldn't have to test that the "VTA voltage exceeds 1.45v and IDL detected."

Thanks for the help!
Id be lost without YOTATECH!

 

TPS signals won't keep the engine from starting. You can actually unplug it and the computer will compute the fuel pulses off just the air flow meter.

Yeah just adjust it and clear the codes by pulling the EFI fuse and waiting abit. Once you put the fuse back in check the stored codes again to make sure they all cleared, if they don't clear you need to pull the negative battery cable.

Bigger issue is the other code. This one means the igniter and computer aren't talking. Which is kind of important.

Ok caught up on the thread. First off rain and no hood BAD (yeah in caps bad) don't do that, these things really aren't water tight with out a lot of help. Second fuel poring out of the intake, last guy that had this problem hooked the fuel return line up where the power steering vacuum line goes to.

Double check your vacuum routing and specifically check that fuel return line at least twice.

Double check you're getting spark while cranking, and that the initial timing is some where in the correct ball park. by hooking up timing gun to the #1 plug wire and point it at the crank pulley while someone else cracks the engine over.

Next go thru the spark plug wires and make sure they are running to the correct plugs. There are pictures in the manual and the caps are marked also.

After that's all done check the stored codes and that the code 14 hasn't returned.

 

WOW! Great info!
Thank you!

ya it was a short period where there was rain and no hood.

Will post updates tomorrow!

 

UPDATE:

Hey, so this morning I started by double checking all my vacume lines I'm using my 94 pickup (that runs) for reference. everything looks right.

I re-checked that I'm getting spark all the way to the plugs, and i am. Checked that they are going to the right plugs, they are.

I tried to check the timing but the timing gun wouldn't flash while cranking the engine?

next i pulled the throttle body off and adjusted the TPS perfectly! then re-installed the throttle body.

Next I pulled the EFI fuse and the negative off the battery and waited 10 mins.
I then checked for any codes. they are both cleared! I'm not running any codes anymore.

So I tried to start it........ No start same thing intake is flooded can smell the gas. Fack!
This is my issue right here, the intake is flooding. WHY?!!!!!

Rechecked codes, still not running any codes.

Can some one send me a clear photo of where the fuel return line goes on a 92 4Runner just to be safe. I'm sure its right though. Can the cold start injector cause this same issue if it continuously sprays fuel in to the intake? or if its not spraying in molecule form and just poring in?

 

It's pretty easy to pull the cold start injector if you think it could be causing the problem. Pull it, jump the correct pins in the diagnostic port to start the fuel pump and see if it starts spraying fuel everywhere.

You could also try disconnecting the electrical plug from it.

 

swaped in a used cold start injector. still flooding.......

 

fuel pressure regulator?