I still think I'll just get my damn hands on a t3/t4 and run it, lol. be super easy to do so, but I've got to repair my headgaskets and figure out how I'd run the oil lines/where the sender is, and where my oil leak is.

 

There is a Lexus 3VZ-FE V6 24 valve 4 cam engine in Utah selling for $795. Says it has excellent compression and leakdown. Seems like a dang good price. Is the same engine that that guy with the blue 2nd gen 4runner swapped in his?

 

The 7MGE has a weak headgasket design.

 

hmmph.....

 

you really have an R32 GT-R?

One of my good local buddies has an R33 (GT40R single swap, Apex'i powerFC too!)

 

I think you need to get the W-58 Transmission from a Supra unless your truck is already equip with it.

 

Ok since you guys are talking about 7M swap i'm in the process in putting in my 7m in my 85 4wd pick up. Is wiring in the truck really common to the supra? If not what does it take to rewire it I was told that the connectors are hard to find? ok before I even go deeper in pulling apart my 22r how about the exhaust system for the 7M do I have to use the Supra Cat back or just bring it to a shop and have them install a muffler?

 

i would go 3.4l easy swap and ive got enough HP. i can spin my 35 through 1 and a little through 2 and ive got 4.70 in the rear. but also ive got it in a truck not sure how it does in the 4runners. also i was talking to lc engineering about doing my 3.4 up and they said that they do 500hp 3.4 all day long and not at a bad price either.

 

I would do it but I got a wreck 92 supra in the garage and might have all the parts I need to drop one in I think

 

the only thing harder in a 7M swap than a 3.4 swap is the radiator since the inline 6 is a good bit longer.

The wiring is not difficult if you know how to read a wiring diagram and understand the logic behind how each part of the circuit operates. For either swap there's really only 5 wires or so that are required to have the engine run, the rest are optional stuff like gauges etc.

 

After all is said and done, this is probably the best bet. Less wiring and no worries about turbos/intercoolers and all that crap.

 

And all you need to make it run is a 1 hotwire, targo switch and a push button for the starter

 

another questions does the 2JZ bolt right up are there some mods needs to be done in order for the engine to go in?

 

I backed off doing a 7M in a second generation after looking at swaps posted on the internet. EGR to brake booster interference, problems with oil pan and IFS clearance seems to be an issue, overall length, continued concerns with head gasket failures, etc....

I am a Toyota fan BUT I am getting pissed with their continual head gasket failures. I think they need to hire some Honda or Mitsubishi or Mazda engineers to stop the proliferation.

I vote to pull the 3.0 and rebuild it with some improvements. Stainless headers, new design steel head gaskets, ARP head studs, Hasting iron rings, balanced crank assembly, stainless exhaust valves, low restriction inlet and it will run really strong and very smooth....a true pleasure to drive!

My personal experiences and $0.02

 

i hate to resurrect a "dead" thread, however,

when you have the 7mgte sitting on your engine stand, that's the time to install a MHG, and some ARP studs. problem solved.

-shaeff

 

Old thread, but i figured this is a good place to dump some hopefully useful information.

I had an 88 4x4 with a 7m-ge that i swapped in to replace my 22re that i blew up. This is a very good swap and will actually give your yota a lot of power. I wouldnt build it up too much since ur dealing with a transmission from a ~130 HP truck, but but it will hold a decent ammount of power as it is a great transmission. It will bolt right up to the transmission by using the bellhousing from the supra, they both have the exact same bolt pattern on the side that bolts to the transmission. You will need a supra clutch, flywheel, cpu, and radiator, a different fuel pump, most likely need an electric fan due to the size of the straight 6. As for the head gasket, its not a weak design, they just didnt torque the head bolts down enough from the factory (you need to tighten it a lot more than factory specs when u replace it). Extremely easy to replace the headgasket on a 7m- probably the easiest motor i have ever worked on. As far as engine swaps go, it has a relatively low ammount of fabrication involved although you will need to make some simple form of adaptor plate for the motor mounts (thats what killed me, i cut them off). You can get a JDM 7mge motor with ~30K miles for around 700$. Highly recomended. There are a lot of websites to get technical information about the swap that will make it very easy to understand.


PS. as simple as this all is, its not the type of swap that can be done over the weekend. Also if u have ifs, it may help to have a few inches of body lift to clear the front diff with the oil pan without hitting the transmission against the tunnel
-Kevin

 

We have a performance yota shop around here that said if you replace the gasket on any of the straight 6 motors it will never fail. they have several in the 700-1000hp range. On in a 94 2wd that screams will spin the wheels in all gears.

 

Been there, done it. I believe the 5M-GE is a rear sump oil pan, and it is a direct bolt up to a 7M-GE. I have done the 5M-GE and 7M-GE, but has been ahwhile. Good swap, use electric fans.

 

i stopped reading halfway thru this thread... but there was a stuff posted on here and the guy/his company made bolt up kits for the 2JZ


here you go


https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ap-kit-130206/

 

This is all very interesting. Lots of knowledge and experience thrown out there. I have an 88 Runner with the 3.slow and 223K. I know I want a different engine in mine when it goes. Maybe I should buy an 84 Runner and not worry about computers when I swap. Being relatively new here, I am confused about all the motors designations.

If Lexus had a screaming 3.0L engine, why wouldn't that be the best swap?
Thanks. Phil