Learn to pull the codes yourself... how to is all through these forums.

As to your original question, you do kind of have the worst combination for power. 4Runner is the heaviest of the vehicles, 22re is least power, and high altitude to boot.

All that being said, I also suspect that combination should hold third gear through the Rockies.

Get a Chilton's, better an FSM, most of which is available online here if you search or someone posts the link. The specifics of how to pull the codes are repeated many times... very simple once you get the hang of it.

 

FSM link is above, in post #6

 

I was going to point that out - but isn't that the 93 FSM and he needs a FSM for the 1st Gen?

 

There is something wrong, i can handle the inclines on 35s, with 410s on the 22re, it may bog down in 4th so i go to 3rd and can do 45-55 all the way up, even if i shift up to 3rd there is some gain.

 

Engines are the same

 

Alright, so it seems there is something wrong. I tried searching to find out how to read the codes and could only find info on the newer 4Runners. How do I do the code check on my first gen?

 

How much newer? 1st and 2nd gen are the same way - short the plug, then read off the blinks

 

I have a 1987 4Runner. So I just take a paper clip and jump the diag. box?

 

Alright, I tried the diag. paper clip trick and nothing happened. The CEL was a constant glow without any flashing with the key turned to the run position. Does this mean that I have no stored codes? I conected the +b to the FP terminal.

 

The correct indication of no codes stored is a constant flashing.

Wrong point jumped, or wrong sequence... do the jump with the key off (if I remember correctly), leave it jumped, and turn the key on to observe the flash.

 

you need to jump the one in the left top corner and the middle one on the diag. box. as if you were at the passenger side of the engine bay.

 

According to http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...CheckConnector
this website it shows differently than what you said. Is this correct for my 1987 4Runner?

 

The image you show are for different engine and year combinations. For instance, I have an '85 22rec which is like image A.

I also have a '94 4Runner 3L which is like C.

You will have one of the those. Pick the type you have, turn on the ignition, and put the jumper as shown in the image that fits yours. You should get the blinking at that point.

 

Note that the image above is for shorting the B-FP for timing - you need to short the T and E1 to get the codes!

(Roger/4Crawler is the man BTW!)

 

I am so happy! I finally figured out how to do the diagnostic test. I have a code 5 and code 11. Has anyone had these combinations or had experience with these? According to http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/index.html the Code 5 is OXYGEN SENSOR SIGNAL/OXYGEN SENSOR HEATER SIGNAL

OPEN OR SHORT IN OXYGEN SENSOR OR OXYGEN SENSOR SIGNAL

and code 11 is SWITCH SIGNALS

IDL (tps) CONTACTS OFF, NEUTRAL START SWITCH OFF, A/C SWITCH "ON" SIGNAL TO ECU

WITH DIAGNOSTIC CHECK CONNECTOR SHORTED

--A/C SWITCH/CIRCUIT

--A/C AMPLIFIER

--TPS/CIRCUIT

--NEUTRAL START SWITCH/CIRCUIT

--ECU

 

The FSM link above has the way to check the O2 sensor.

Here's how to adjust the TPS
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

 

Dose the code 11 mean that all those things are wrong, or is it only one or maybe more than one of the listed problem? How do I know that it is not something to do with the A/C or something else?

 

At 10,000 ft any vehicle is going to suffer greatly. I dont' think a 4 banger puts 100hp down to the ground. I am a pilot and you would be amazed at the difference in performance of a naturally aspirated Lycoming when you climb up to 10K.If you want to go faster get a different rig of swap in something with some juice. I did 30-40mph up every grade going cross country with my 3.0 pulling a trailer that wasn't all that heavy. I use my cruise control and set the tach at 3500 rpm for extended pulls or otherwise I find myself really winding on it trying to go faster.

 

It's one of the things listed. The reason I would start with the O2 sensor and TPS are because they are the most likely to "wear" or drift out of adjustment. The FSM will provide more guidance in how to check those things.

 

I was thinking last night about everything that I have done to my truck so far, and what I thought of was that when I replaced the alternator and power steering pump, I never re-installed the belt for the A/C. Could that be the reason for the code 11---A/C SWITCH/CIRCUIT --A/C AMPLIFIER?