ok well this started 3 weeks ago. This is all one a rebuilt motor with an new head, new injectors, and a intake that is perfectly clean. One night i noticed my exhuast manifold was getting extremly hot. I started by removing the catalytic converter and checking my timing. Cat was say 40 percent plugged and timing was good at a touch more than 5 degrees advanced.

I decided i didnt really have time to deal wit hit and took it to the same shop i always have and for 80 bucks they told me the afm was bad. So i went the auto recycler and got a used afm for 50 bucks. I put it on at home it did nothing.

I pulled the codes and got a code 28 and a code 11. The 28 was the oxygen densor and a replaced it with and original toyota one. The code 11 is

SWITCH SIGNALS
IDL (tps) CONTACTS OFF, NEUTRAL START SWITCH OFF, A/C SWITCH "ON" SIGNAL TO ECU

WITH DIAGNOSTIC CHECK CONNECTOR SHORTED

--A/C SWITCH/CIRCUIT

--A/C AMPLIFIER

--TPS/CIRCUIT

--NEUTRAL START SWITCH/CIRCUIT

I figure that since the swicth on my clutch pedal is busted and i have to press the cancel button everytiem that this is what is causing the code 11.

So this brigns me to where i am now. I have bought a new afm and oxygen sensor. I have checked the timing and i have removed the cat. There is no codes except the code 11 which is justifiable and doesnt really matter to the situation.

I need help the only other options i can think of are mabey the fuel pump ran dry when i ran out of gas a few weeks before this happened or the fuel pressure regulator is clogged. These are the only 2 thigns that i can think of that would cause my engine to run this lean and not throw a code.

 

Throttle Position Sensor. I had the EXACT same problem, and it cost me $460 to fix. Dont suffer the same fate lol. Its the TPS.

 

neutral safety has nothing to do with it.

 

ok i thought it could be but the shop reassured me that the code 11 was because of my clutch cancel. Well if it is the tps wher eis the best place to get one. I get a discount at napa and it was gonna be like 80 something bucks when i looked it up. Is ther e anwyhere cheaper and deos it really matter were i buy it like shucks vs napa? OR is it the same situation as the 02 where it needs to coem straight for mthe dealer?

 

get one from the dealer. Always the correct part#, and it actually works the first time.

 

ok well i will give this a try tomarrow and i will go get some allen bolts too so i can actually adjust the sucker once i get the old screws out.

 

you dont have to get an 02 sensor from the dealer. Most parts stores carry Denso....

just a thought

 

www.sparkplugs.com