stupid rear window
#1
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stupid rear window
so I've replaced my rear window relay and switch with parts i know are good and i still can't get the thing to open or close when I press the switch on the console. Does anyone know any secrets to making these things work....I'm out of ideas
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are all your bolts in that hold on your top? I think the 2nd or 3rd bolt from the rear on the drivers side needs to be in for your window to work. (there is a switch under the bolt that the bolt depresses when tightened down) It's to make sure your window wont go back up when the top is off.
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the other option is to take out the switch and clean it, mine was caked with dirt, dried pop etc from the po. the dust that i added from offroading didnt help either!
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lee
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#8
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there is also another sensor in the door latch (drivers side i think) that senses whether the tailgate is closed or not. you can fake that one by flipping the latch with a screwdriver, just for testing purposes. mine would work when i flipped the switch, and then not work when i closed the tailgate - problem was that tailgate was not closing all the way due to some weather stripping being in the way.
after you get through that hurdle, there will be another one on the other side. the tailgate/rear window on these trucks is a source of constant misery for some of us.
keep in mind that there is also a wire harness clip inside the tailgate. if you ever have a problem where the console switches work, but the tailgate key does not, you will have to check that harness clip for tightness - it has a way of wanting to work apart. i zip tied mine together.
after you get through that hurdle, there will be another one on the other side. the tailgate/rear window on these trucks is a source of constant misery for some of us.
keep in mind that there is also a wire harness clip inside the tailgate. if you ever have a problem where the console switches work, but the tailgate key does not, you will have to check that harness clip for tightness - it has a way of wanting to work apart. i zip tied mine together.
#9
I have an 89 4runner and the same thing happened to me. I replaced all parts, but still the problem stayed around. The problem real problem turned out to be a short in the wiring, so you might have to take the wiring out till you find the short in the line.
#10
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The is a top off switch just behind the driver side rear wheel. There is a door lock detection sensor.
the top off switch breaks ground according to the wiring diagram. It has three connectors. Here is the wiring diagram.
Here's a number diagram for the terminals on the rear window relay.
Apply battery voltage between terminals 1 and 3 of the wire harness side. Check that the window motor turns. Then connect in reverse, check that the motor turns in reverse. This checks out the motor etc.
Here's the check list for every terminal on the relay.
door lock detection switch on the driver side.
top off switch
the top off switch breaks ground according to the wiring diagram. It has three connectors. Here is the wiring diagram.
Here's a number diagram for the terminals on the rear window relay.
Apply battery voltage between terminals 1 and 3 of the wire harness side. Check that the window motor turns. Then connect in reverse, check that the motor turns in reverse. This checks out the motor etc.
Here's the check list for every terminal on the relay.
door lock detection switch on the driver side.
top off switch
Last edited by 4runnerx3; 04-17-2007 at 04:20 PM.
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Mine has a button next to the control youre talking about. Someone has taken it and bypassed it by connecting all of the wires except for the red one. When I wired the button up it wouldnt work so its still bypassed and works fine but I have to use the key.
#13
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Does the window work when using the key switch in the tailgate? If so, then you have a wiring problem between the console switch and the relay box.
#14
Missing both Factory connectors
Hello. Would anyone happen to have a picture of the rear window switch factory connectors? The ones under the center armrest? I have a 1990 4Runner that someone decided to cut both ends of the factory harness off and put their own spade connectors on. The colors do not match up at all and I'm not finding a diagram that shows both connectors so I can match up the colors. Thank you very much.
#15
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iTrader: (1)
Just why do you want the factory plugs ??
Does the window work??
Pretty simple circuit I just use a momentary two position toggle switch on mine have a new switch just never took the time to swap.
The only real difference was the light that most often never worked.
For what ever reason maybe the harness was bad and the last owner was unable to repin the original plugs so took that route
If you can get a copy of Toyota`s Electrical wiring Diagrams for your year it has all that information.
If I had the correct year I would show you.
Toyota is good for changing wire colors at times.
Does the window work??
Pretty simple circuit I just use a momentary two position toggle switch on mine have a new switch just never took the time to swap.
The only real difference was the light that most often never worked.
For what ever reason maybe the harness was bad and the last owner was unable to repin the original plugs so took that route
If you can get a copy of Toyota`s Electrical wiring Diagrams for your year it has all that information.
If I had the correct year I would show you.
Toyota is good for changing wire colors at times.
#16
Just why do you want the factory plugs ??
Does the window work??
Pretty simple circuit I just use a momentary two position toggle switch on mine have a new switch just never took the time to swap.
The only real difference was the light that most often never worked.
For what ever reason maybe the harness was bad and the last owner was unable to repin the original plugs so took that route
If you can get a copy of Toyota`s Electrical wiring Diagrams for your year it has all that information.
If I had the correct year I would show you.
Toyota is good for changing wire colors at times.
Does the window work??
Pretty simple circuit I just use a momentary two position toggle switch on mine have a new switch just never took the time to swap.
The only real difference was the light that most often never worked.
For what ever reason maybe the harness was bad and the last owner was unable to repin the original plugs so took that route
If you can get a copy of Toyota`s Electrical wiring Diagrams for your year it has all that information.
If I had the correct year I would show you.
Toyota is good for changing wire colors at times.
#17
Okay, I have a picture of the switch side of the connector and it's wiring. Does someone have a picture of the harness side connector and it's wiring colors? Then I can put this back together correctly. Thank you very much.
#18
Registered User
I think RAD4Runner did some good write ups on his build thread. Check there. Also you can go to google and enter "4Runner window switch" and search images. See what pops up. Good luck.
#19
Like Wyoming says ^^ up-down switch is merely a momentary double throw, single-pole switch with center-off.
Meaning:
If you're using switch from one model on a different model truck, ignore color coding; they're not guaranteed to match. EVEN if you see same color wires, do NOT trust it. Color-coding may change between models. Get an Ohmeter to verify.
Just use an ohm-meter to find where the individual contacts are, and solder wires to appropriate connector pins basing on schematic.
There are 2 additional pins, the positive and negative side of the switch illumination. Ohm-meter will also help you find these pins.
Release the switch rocker. IF bulb inside is good, you will get very low resistance between these two illumination wires. If switch is good, only those two contacts will have low resistance between each other with rocker released.
Meaning:
- There is 1 common/center contact.
- Pushing it one way connects center contact to one direction (Up)
- Pushing it the other way connects center contact to the other direction (down)
- When released center contact always returns to NO connection status.
If you're using switch from one model on a different model truck, ignore color coding; they're not guaranteed to match. EVEN if you see same color wires, do NOT trust it. Color-coding may change between models. Get an Ohmeter to verify.
Just use an ohm-meter to find where the individual contacts are, and solder wires to appropriate connector pins basing on schematic.
There are 2 additional pins, the positive and negative side of the switch illumination. Ohm-meter will also help you find these pins.
Release the switch rocker. IF bulb inside is good, you will get very low resistance between these two illumination wires. If switch is good, only those two contacts will have low resistance between each other with rocker released.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 03-06-2015 at 07:27 PM.
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