RGille

ok so I am trying to get the ring and pinion out of my axle but its completely stuck in there. I removed the bearing caps and tried tapping the ring gear to get her out but I got nothing..... Someone please tell me what I am doing wrong lol.

RGille

btw the axle halves are out and the third member is on my work bench.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

photos might help someone figure out where you are stuck at. had a hard time picturing it

The ring gear isn't where you want the harmonic vibes going, that shouldn't be bound up. Also the fixture needs to allow the pinion to rotate. Try tapping on the four corners around the side bearings.

RGille

ok so I cant find a good picture and I don't know how to load my own so let me try and explain a little better. with the front axle off the truck and looking at it from the front, I have the cover removed and the half shafts out. Inside the cover is the ring gear attached to the dif gears as a unit. The ring gear and assembly is what is stuck and I cannot get it out of place to get the bearings off. I have both sides bearing caps off so I am really not sure what is holding the gear set in place..

bruno4turbo

we talking a solid axle or a IFS differential? yotas have banjo style differentials, they come out the rear side. but i know that on the IFS the front axle has the front removable covers

Toyota~Boy

iTrader: (2)

I'm assuming your talking about a front ifs third member correct. If so then you need to remove both axles and probably the axle tube. Now you should have one large round 3rd member. Remove the bearing caps and that should be it. Remove the yoke and tap the pinion with a rubber mallet. Do not damage the threads unless your replacing it all. This should nick the ring gear assembly loose if its stuck in the 3rd

RGille

Sadly I'm still running the ifs system for now. The odd thing is it looks like it should just slide out. But I don't want to get to forceful with pursuading it.

RGille

This is what I'm looking at atm.

Toyota~Boy

iTrader: (2)

That's correct. Just pry it out. You won't hurt anything

RGille

Cool thanks I will give it a go when I gear home.

bruno4turbo

if you have a vice and a friend that doesn't mind catching, hang it upside down, loosen the pinion bolt to the last 3-4 threads and hammer with a punch (to not damage the threads, and get around the yoke/flange) a couple solid hits (manly hits or angry woman hits) don't baby it, they can handle. and it'll pop out. good luck!

bruno4turbo

nothing wrong with IFS, sure you get more flex outta solid axles, but don't look at IFS as a negative

and don't worry about being to forceful with hardened steel, its pretty durable, just don't drop it on the ground or take an air chisel to it

Toyota~Boy

iTrader: (2)

I completely agreeeeee

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

See pictures help! Seriously I tend to forget the thread titles before the thread loads. I was picturing the other third-member.


You have the stub axle out I assume


Once all the bits are removed they come out like this


Thank ZUK for the pictures, and HERE is the page for those, it's a 94 front IFS diff.

RGille

Got it out! Thanks again you guys no I can replace the trashed bearing.

RJR

Glad you got it out. In the future, and for others who are struggling, there's an easier way to get the carrier out. Once you have the axle stub shafts out and the bearing caps off, just wedge a 2x4 alongside the carrier so it can't turn, and then start cranking on the pinion flange. It will jack the ring gear and carrier right out of the case with almost no effort. You can also just wedge a folded shop rag in between the ring and pinion gears and get similar results.

I just had my front IFS apart a month ago to install an Aussie locker, and the 2x4 trick worked like a charm. I learned it by reading back articles on this forum.

That trick doesn't work to reinstall the carrier. For that you'll need a big hammer and block of wood to persuade it to go back in. Like was said above, don't worry about being forceful with it. When you're geared down in first gear lo-range, the engine is putting far more torque (to the tune of about 3-4000 ft-lbs) on those parts than you'll ever be able to generate with hand tools.

RJR