I bought this 95 4Runner from a preacher down south... to get to the point, it was a piece of crap. I should have known better than to trust. I'm no mechanic by no means. But I should have been more aware and checked the underside of it and questioned everything but due to time constraints (I was moving from GA), I didn't do that or I would have at least noticed the boots were worn. I made it to NY, But after all those miles, car started shaking from the front right. At first it wasn't bad but after a week it got worse. I took it to pep boys and other shops and said, wheel bearings, cv axle, idler arm, pitman arm. Cost ran between 700 - 1100. I'm on a limited budget, who isn't. So I decide to do this myself. I ordered the parts. The first thing I changed was the wheel bearings (inner and outer but didn't change the races since they didn't look so bad. Most of the shakes went away. Next day, changed the CV axle, 95% of the shakes gone. The car shakes when I accelerate when I first noticed the problem. But occasionally it did shake when I let go the gas but not while I had it in NEUTRAL and cruising downhills. So I'm hoping this will narrow it down. I've researched online and read that it might be my U-Joint. But need confirmation. I still have to put the other axle (driver side) on but I'm feeling that this is not the cause of shaking. Could the tire been messed up from driving it with that bad shaking prior to fixing the wheel bearings and CV axle?

I'm going to try to get the other driver side CV axle today and putting the idler and pitman arm on.

On a side problem, the brake light goes on when I shift from 1-2 and 2-3 rarely on other gears. FLUID??? There is a sound (squeaking) from the front left brakes.

Can anyone give me some insight, clues, prayers, ideas???

 

Idler arm should help. But trying to change the pitman arm will be a challenge. They are usually extremely difficult to get off.I hope you have a proper pitman arm puller and some heat. Grab ahold of those U joints and idler arm and see if you can make them flex. If you can Replace.

Does it shake just at a specific speed?? Could just need a good alignment.

As for the brake light coming on it sounds like it pops up when the rpms drop suddenly from shifting. If the fluid is full you may be looking at a early alternator problem. Brake and Charge light comes on saying I (Alternator)am Broke.

 

The brake light coming on is low brake fluid. Top off the resevoir.

Shaking can be SO MANY things. I'd also lift the vehicle & spin the tire in question to see if it's out of round or had a knot developing. Have the tires been balanced? Mud/snow inside the back of the rim can cause shaking as well.

 

Brake fluid topped off and light went away during shifting!!! Thanks.

As far as the shaking, I was 10lbs below on air in the right front. I pumped it to specs and most of my shaking is going away. There is still a vibration during acceleration. I could let go of the gas doing 50-55 and no vibration, usually. I say USUALLY. I'll take it out of gear sometimes and cruise and vibration sometimes is there but then I'll put it back in gear and just don't press the gas and it goes away. It's puzzling. I'm at a loss with this vibration. Does this help with diagnosing my problem? I've read U-joints on other forums and posts. Still could be my tire...

 

Not at any specific speed. The shaking has gone down to a vibration since the wheel bearing/cv axle change. The vibration is still there. I did top off the rt tire w/ air was low 10lbs. Cruising 90 % of the time out of gear and there is no vibration. It's Thanksgiving day so Happy Thanksgiving to all!! I'll work on the other CV axle and swap out the idler arm and both pitman arms. I'm hoping they won't be that hard. I can probably do the CV axle in hour now that I figured it out lol.

 

does the vibration makes your steeringwheel shacke??
can u feel it on the entire truck or is more like a rumbling noise??
did you lubricated your cv spindle when you installed it?

 

Prior to CV axle/wheel bearing, Yes it was moving my steering wheel. After replacing, not as much on the steering wheel anymore. And yes, I did lube the spindle.

 

les schwab did my front wheel berring for $175 out the door with all new stuff

other shops wanted $350 for the same thing ....

 

I know you said you didn't replace the races, however did you check to make sure they weren't spun?

 

This doesn't mean your truck is a piece of crap. Maybe not as maintained as it should have been, and maybe it was embellished to get it sold. But I have seen a lot worse situations. You bought the truck without thoroughly inspecting everything yourself, and then get upset because a preacher (whatever that implies) may have lied about some things? I don't think that's entirely fair bro... Not to mention--how did the truck get to NY(that's where your location says)? Did you buy it and load your stuff and head North? Did all fluids, lubricants, belts, hoses, tune-up parts, tires, etc get inspected/changed by you?

Please don't misunderstand me, I think maybe the preacher did you wrong a bit, based on what you're saying. But I do think that due to your time constraints and/or lack of knowledge, you neglected to fully inspect a used car, and do all necessary repairs/maintenance before a trip.

Good job on getting the necessary things fixed yourself, and getting your truck safe and reliable.

 

I blame myself for the purchase. I should have known better. Didn't matter from whom it was purchased from. I bought the vehicle a week prior to leaving GA. Pretty much pack and go. I asked him if it would make the trip... which it did. I was in a rush but what's done is done. It is what it is. I drove it up here.

 

have you had your wheels balance?

 

I don't think there is any reason to blame yourself friend. You got a great Toyota truck that is ready to give you some good times on NY trails. A little bit of catching up on replacing some worn out items will give you experience and a chance to put on high quality parts that can last another 25yrs!

We're glad you and the truck made the trip in one piece, as shaky as it was...

Now for a 3RZ swap or a Mercedes Turbo Diesel... SAS up front....dual cases.... Let the fun begin!

 

Does all tires have to be off the ground to check my u-joint?

 

Check the stake nuts on the rear of the t-case and rear diff. My front one at the t-case was loose and have me a bad vibration around those speeds.

Just grab the yoke at the t-case or rear diff and see if you can move it up or down. If it moves you might be able to tighten it.

Hope this helps.

 

Your tires don't need to be off the ground. But you will want the truck in neutral and the wheels chocked so you don't get rolled over.

It's better to have tires off the ground, if only both fronts or both rears at one time. This will allow you to spin the driveshafts by hand to feel/look for any movement or resistance. Do you have a carrier bearing on the rear shaft? My '84 had a bad carrier that gave me bad vibration when accelerating. Most extended cabs have a driveshaft support bearing aka carrier bearing.

 

I think I'd trust a preacher before most car salespersons.

:wabbit2:

 

Had tires balanced and rotated.

Shaking almost completely gone!!! My tires I knew were going bad. But...the vibration the I'm getting during acceleration is confirmed - my u joint on the rear axle shaft (next to trans) is shot. I've ordered the parts at advance auto and I'll try to get all the parts I've ordered on this weekend and I'll post an update after.

 

BTW... How easy is replacing this U-JOINT???? Will i need special tools?

 

after you fix the things that fall under the "normal maintenance" category and drive it for years and years without major headaches your gonna apologize to the preacher and your yota for calling it "a piece of crap" lol!!!