joshik

aiite, well my last thread was about my starter problem and me trying to get it out of the darn truck. the starter has been reinstalled with the new contact but im still having the same problem.

so i tested the electrical again.
Test 1
1. i used my voltmeter and put the black end of the meter to the (-) of the battery. i put the red end and touched the big fat cable that is connected by a nut on the starter. a full 12volts.

Test 2
then i diconnected the small brown clip that connects to the starter and tested that. no reading.... so i left red meter end in the small brown clip and then turned the key to start the car. i got a reading of 12volts.

Conclusion
the big fat cable that connects via a nut on the starter is connected directly to the (+) terminal of the battery. the small brown clip receives power when the key is turned. i get 12 volts on both ends.

so i grabbed some wire and crimped on a clip so that i could connect it directl to the terminal where the small brown clip would go on othe starter. i took the other loose end and touchd it directly to the (+) terminal of the battery and the starter turned without hesitation. it sounded good!

test 3
1. attached a wire to the small brown clip and then attached that to the red end of the voltmeter.

2. attached a wire to the starter where the small clip would go and attached the other end of the wire to the black end of the voltmeter.

3. i went to start the car, and i dont think the car turned on ( cant remember, but i doubt it), but i got a reading of 12volts.

test 4
1. disconnect the wires from the volt meter and splice them together so now the clip is connected to the starter via a jerry rigged wire.
i tried to turn the car on, no go.

my conclusion:
unfortunately i'm no electrical engineer and what i know of trucks is what i learned from yotatech and my friends. the rest i just figure out on my own. i guess i'm losing power somewhere, or not getting enough amps? something like that? after i was done, i just reconnected everything and then put all my tools away. the car started fine, by this time it was dark and cool outside. btw, i have a few other connections that connect direclty to the (+) terminal of the battery like offroad lights (on a relay) and some other things.

what happened today:
i got in the car in the morning and the car started right up with a little delay. i got in the car at noon for lunch it it wouldnt start with the first turn. turned it again, and it started. it's hot outside today. it seems have problems when it sits in the sun all day.

sorry for the long post... any ideas?

AH64ID

either the solenoid in the starter, or the realy in the dash....

I have a similar problem, my starter just got rebuilt so when I get home next week I'll see if its fixed.

joshik

ahhhh, yeh, i thought it may be the relay but someone said that it doesnt have a relay. but i coulda sworn the clicking noise i hear when it doesnt start is the relay switching on and off. i will go check that! where is the relay for the starter located?

AH64ID

not a clue....but i hear a click behind the glove box...so thats would be my first guess...shouldnt be different from RE to 3.slow

wrenchmonster

If I remember correctly I think you have the 3.0. The relay box should be under the hood near the passenger side fender. There's a little box cover, and on that cover the starter relay will be indicated.

You can read across a battery to determine voltage of the battery, but this is really an inconclusive test. Without load testing a battery, you won't be able to determine if a battery is good or not, period.

If you are getting a signal from your ignition to the relay, and the relay is working properly to provide current to the starter circuit, the ignition side is probably okay, it still could have an intermittent problem however.

The most common problem with starting circuits tends to be on the starting side, either the starter itself (including the solenoid) or the cables. To check the voltage drop of the cables just touch one end of the meter on either side of the cable with the DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) on the voltage scale. This will tell you how many volts are dropping, or being lost, through the cable. If you have more than 1 volt, you have a problem. Check both negative and postive battery cables for corrosion. Remember that corrosion can occur inside a cable, and unseen on the ends, though corrosion usually starts on the ends.

joshik

oh you know what i just realized? there used to be an alarm installed in my truck before i bought it from someone. it is pretty much disabled and ive never used it before. but i do have that little red led light on my dash and it stays on constantly. one time, for some reason it went off and the red light started to flash and the car wouldnt start. i had to disco the battery and take out the fuse from under the dash and reset the alarm. then voila it worked. i should just tear out the old alarm stuff. i still have the valet switch under the dash too. maybe that relay is going bad or something! i just thought of that while reading off-road.com's write up on starter repair.

hektikwon

When I had my starter problem these were my issues:
1: Starter kill for keyless entry was killing voltage at ignition
2: Starter contacts were worn
3: Starter plunger was corroded
The third thing is what I missed the 1st time I pulled the started. It would work sometimes and sometimes it wouldn't. I just scrubbed the plunger with a wire brush and put some wd-40 on that sucker. Starts everytime.