stereo and tach wiring
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stereo and tach wiring
Ok, so first off i was wondering if it is possible that the connection to the ignition coil might be bad, or is it just that the Tach is dead. I'd say when the engine is around 3000 the tach revs up to 1000, and nothing on idle. Secondly, i was wondering if all pickups are like this, but i have the memory cable hooked up, orange and white line i think, and it doesn't seem to work. Everytime i shut off and restart the vehicle, it resets. So i was just wondering if all yota pickups are like that, or if the harness is just messed up.
#2
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Is this a stock cluster with tach and aftermarket stereo? We need details man If it is an aftermarket deck, it should keep the settings. Well at least mine does in my '88.
Rob
Rob
#5
I had the same problem with my head unit.
If your 88 is similar to my 94 then the wire colors should be the same.
On your head unit you should have Ground (black) Power (yellow) and switch/ACC (red).
(YELLOW)The power wire is to constantly power your head unit (even when keys are out) thus keeping all your settings. Hook this to the blue wire with a small yellow stripe.
(RED)Now the ACC (accessory or switched) wire is what ultimately allows your head unit to turn on (hence ACC on your ignition). This keeps your radio from staying on all the time which would drain your battery. You would also hook this wire up to your amp to turn it on and off. Hook this to the brown wire or switched wire.
I'm bored and its to cold to work on my truck, so here's a diagram I made:
And for your tach... is it set to "4cyl"?
If your 88 is similar to my 94 then the wire colors should be the same.
On your head unit you should have Ground (black) Power (yellow) and switch/ACC (red).
(YELLOW)The power wire is to constantly power your head unit (even when keys are out) thus keeping all your settings. Hook this to the blue wire with a small yellow stripe.
(RED)Now the ACC (accessory or switched) wire is what ultimately allows your head unit to turn on (hence ACC on your ignition). This keeps your radio from staying on all the time which would drain your battery. You would also hook this wire up to your amp to turn it on and off. Hook this to the brown wire or switched wire.
I'm bored and its to cold to work on my truck, so here's a diagram I made:
And for your tach... is it set to "4cyl"?
Last edited by Five1Nine8Eight; 02-12-2007 at 11:22 PM.
#7
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my tach is starting to do the same thing...i have a 95 4 runner sr5 4x4 and at idle it will sometimes drop to nothing and when i am cruising on the freeway it bounces around approx 500-600 rpm off is there a way to fix this???
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#8
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Ok well i'll have to try the positive lead on the coil, i have it on the negative rate now. Yeah i think i need to go get a new harness. Put honestly it didn't even occur to me to check and see if each was was getting power. Ok thanks, i'll check that stuff out today and get back.
#9
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It should go to the negative terminal on the coil. I have a mini SunPro and this is how I have mine wired. As said above, make sure the toggle switch is set to 4 cylinder if there is one.
Rob
Rob
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to 1styota4x4 i don' think so, and thats not really that bad, when you said jump i though you meant a couple thousand. I've had two vehicles with factory tachs and they seemed to jump a little every now and then.
Ok so i got a test light to see if the connector was bad (on going into vehicle, not harness) and with the key out power off and i got a signal, so thats fine then i put the harness back in and wiggled it and messed with it a bit and it worked, unlit i put the unit back in place, then the memory stopped working, so i think the harness is messed up.
About the tach, i think its messed up, i could wire it up to another vehicle but i think its dead or mostly. Anyways, i switched to the other side of the coil to see if i had it on the wrong side and didn't, it still only reads up to 1000 rpms. Then i turned the dial for the amount of cylinders and where ever i had it at it didn't make a difference so i thought that was weird. I had it set to 10 cylinders and it didn't act any different when it was set to 4 or anything else, so i'm pretty sure its messed up. Oh well it was free. Looks like a new harness and tach, thanks for the help guys.
Ok so i got a test light to see if the connector was bad (on going into vehicle, not harness) and with the key out power off and i got a signal, so thats fine then i put the harness back in and wiggled it and messed with it a bit and it worked, unlit i put the unit back in place, then the memory stopped working, so i think the harness is messed up.
About the tach, i think its messed up, i could wire it up to another vehicle but i think its dead or mostly. Anyways, i switched to the other side of the coil to see if i had it on the wrong side and didn't, it still only reads up to 1000 rpms. Then i turned the dial for the amount of cylinders and where ever i had it at it didn't make a difference so i thought that was weird. I had it set to 10 cylinders and it didn't act any different when it was set to 4 or anything else, so i'm pretty sure its messed up. Oh well it was free. Looks like a new harness and tach, thanks for the help guys.
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